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Old Mar 24, 2017 | 07:19 PM
  #76  
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well i tried putting a video, but having problems....

Using the test light i touched 30 (red) and theres power, touched 86 (yellow) theres power only with key turned, no power on 87 (orange). Everytime i touched 85 (orange with black strip) with the test light, you can hear the relay click.

Whats that telling me?
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Old Mar 24, 2017 | 07:55 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by Batman33165
I had power going to ballast resistor (both sides) and even the fuel pump. Which was weird because it was not working,
I got frustrated looking for a diagram with the color of the ground wire for the pump, maybe someone else can help. Of course with power, it's the ground, the pump, or the wiring inside the tank that's fubar.

Anyway, seems the yellow wire off the relay goes to the ICM, and an Orange/tan goes to the ECU, Red is hot from a fusable link, so the remaining Orange must power the pump.
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Old Mar 24, 2017 | 08:01 PM
  #78  
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Your light is grounding 85 well enough to trigger the relay is my guess. (fine). I maybe found the three wires at the pump! Violet is the gauge, black the ground and orange the hot wire. So if orange is hot and black is grounded it should run.
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Old Mar 24, 2017 | 08:58 PM
  #79  
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ok so DFlintstone, in the second response is telling me what? that the relay is not being grounded by the ECU. Any suggestions on that?

As for the pump when i used the fusible link to connect 30 and 87 there was power in the black wire and the violet. When i connected it back to the relay, no power to those wires
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Old Mar 24, 2017 | 11:48 PM
  #80  
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The ECU runs the fuel pump for a couple of seconds when you turn the ign on. (in the cab, turning the key you might not hear the relay click). Next the starter relay powers the pump while it's cranking. Third, ECU uses the signal from the CPS to know it started and again grounds 85 to keep it running.

Waz just thinking the path to ground through the bulb in your tester is enough to trigger the relay.

"there was power in the black wire" Huh?...well..... mmmmmmm that's the ground. I suppose if it was not grounded and power was going through the pump motor it could be hot, upstream from an "open" to ground. (open meaning the black ground wire may not be connecting to ground, (bat neg))

" when i used the fusible link to connect 30 and 87" Not sure what you are doing there but in the end you want power out #87. Power up the wires again and ground that black wire you found to be hot. Just touch a little to a ground at first it at first in case its a full on short. If it sparks allot and the pump doesn't run stop there. If the pump runs, find out why the black wire is not grounded.

Last edited by DFlintstone; Mar 25, 2017 at 10:26 AM.
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Old Mar 25, 2017 | 06:56 AM
  #81  
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Did you check for grounds at relay plug. Just connect test light to 30 and probe 85. All testing should be done thru vehicle harness . Grounding test light to vehicle does no check wiring of ground.

Last edited by freegdr; Mar 25, 2017 at 07:00 AM.
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Old Mar 25, 2017 | 10:48 AM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by Batman33165
I do have a multi meter, is that the same?
Your meter has settings with a symbol that looks looks head-phones. That's or measuring resistance in ohms. On a ground wire you would like to see around one or less ohms to ground. (bat negative). If it gives you a choice select a low range, like 200. If it doesn't give you a choice just select ohms. Now touch the leads together. There you have a good connection with very little resistance. Now connect one lead to that black wire from the pump and the other to a known good ground. (scratch to bare metal somewhere, or run a wire right to the battery neg). While you are at it, see that your engine is grounded to the body, and those two are grounded to bat neg. All three should be very well connected. (will only take one minute)

Freedgr, unless I'm mistaken the only "ground" at the relay plug is when the ECU grounds 85 to trigger the relay. (few secs after ign on, then after it starts)

Last edited by DFlintstone; Mar 25, 2017 at 10:51 AM.
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Old Mar 25, 2017 | 12:20 PM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone
Your meter has settings with a symbol that looks looks head-phones. That's or measuring resistance in ohms. On a ground wire you would like to see around one or less ohms to ground. (bat negative). If it gives you a choice select a low range, like 200. If it doesn't give you a choice just select ohms. Now touch the leads together. There you have a good connection with very little resistance. Now connect one lead to that black wire from the pump and the other to a known good ground. (scratch to bare metal somewhere, or run a wire right to the battery neg). While you are at it, see that your engine is grounded to the body, and those two are grounded to bat neg. All three should be very well connected. (will only take one minute)

Freedgr, unless I'm mistaken the only "ground" at the relay plug is when the ECU grounds 85 to trigger the relay. (few secs after ign on, then after it starts)
And if it dont get grounded no prime occurs which results in no start.
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Old Mar 25, 2017 | 12:45 PM
  #84  
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I just went out and pulled my FP relay to triple check. Yes indeed, it's the (rearward) 86 that's powered by the ign. Across from there 85 grounded for a couple secs after ign on as it should, then 30 is always hot.

Batman you should be able to jump power to 87, (passenger side), from anywhere to energize the resistor>pump. Then like said, check that the pump is grounded.
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Old Mar 25, 2017 | 12:53 PM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone
I got frustrated looking for a diagram with the color of the ground wire for the pump, maybe someone else can help. Of course with power, it's the ground, the pump, or the wiring inside the tank that's fubar.

Anyway, seems the yellow wire off the relay goes to the ICM, and an Orange/tan goes to the ECU, Red is hot from a fusable link, so the remaining Orange must power the pump.
It's all right here:

http://cruiser54.com/?p=249
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Old Mar 25, 2017 | 01:28 PM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
It's all right here:

http://cruiser54.com/?p=249
If relays not getting ground signal what then. Major.
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Old Mar 25, 2017 | 01:46 PM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
It's all right here:

http://cruiser54.com/?p=249
Excellent! I need to read the tips again to better remember what all you have there. General, the relay gets grounded by the ECU to run the pump.
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Old Mar 25, 2017 | 02:01 PM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone
Excellent! I need to read the tips again to better remember what all you have there. General, the relay gets grounded by the ECU to run the pump.
Exactly if ECU is not grounding Relay no juice to pump correct.
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Old Mar 25, 2017 | 02:32 PM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone
The ECU runs the fuel pump for a couple of seconds when you turn the ign on. (in the cab, turning the key you might not hear the relay click). Next the starter relay powers the pump while it's cranking. Third, ECU uses the signal from the CPS to know it started and again grounds 85 to keep it running.

Waz just thinking the path to ground through the bulb in your tester is
Originally Posted by DFlintstone
Your light is grounding 85 well enough to trigger the relay is my guess. (fine). I maybe found the three wires at the pump! Violet is the gauge, black the ground and orange the hot wire. So if orange is hot and black is grounded it should run.
Originally Posted by DFlintstone
there 85 grounded for a couple secs after ign on as it should, then 30 is always hot.
OK! I think we put that one to bed.
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Old Mar 25, 2017 | 02:59 PM
  #90  
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I hate to ruin a new fuel pump connector by adding the ground but okay, ill try doing the tip today.

As for what freegdr said i agree, the relay is not getting ground from the ecu. Then what?

I have power in 30 (red which is always hot) and 86 (yellow which is from the ign) but nothing in 87 (orange)
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