Hi everybody. I hope this doesn't sound stupid as I looked on this site and can't find my answer yet. I just bought a 1995 Jeep Cherokee Sport with 4.0l engine. It was leaking like crazy so I am in the process of changing all the lower seals and gaskets. Pulled the front axle housing out completely to do it as I am also adding a R/C 4.5 in lift at the same time. While changing the rear main seal and oil pan gasket, I also noticed the oil filter adapter was leaking. Here is where the confusion comes in for me. The adapter is held in place with a hex head type of bolt(not a torx) and oil filter is vertical instead of horizontal. From what I have been able to find on the web, this setup is how the earlier "Renix" engines are. I wouldn't think that the previous owner would have installed an older engine in this rig, but who knows. My question is " how can I tell for sure which engine I have?" Are there any other tells (differences) between them that I can check? If I take the vin number to a Chrysler dealer would they be able to give me a build sheet for this old of a vehicle? And last but not least, where could I find the id number on the engine itself? I've always worked on Chevys or Fords but I am enjoying this new toy.

 

Not sure on how to identify the different engine years, but you can email them here. http://www.jeep.com/webselfservice/jeep/EmailPage.html

Just put your vin in the description section and they will send back a full build sheet.
apparently the engines dont have a vin but they do have a build number and possibly a date. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/4...cation-995174/

 

Welcome from another new guy, I have a 91. 90% of my oil leak was caused by the valve cover the other was the oil adapter. I was lucky my adapter was held on by a 5/8 bolt, my oil filter screws on with the seal side down. I got the o rings from the dealer.

Mike

 

Welcome to the insanity.

See if this helps. I can de-cipher the codes for you.

 

Thanks for the info guys. I'll see what I can find out.

 

For some reason the factory cranked that torx head to some ungodly level, and people have had to do all kinds of things to get them off (weld bits into it, weld bar to it, whatever). The PO may have replaced it with a hex head after destroying the original during removal.

Dealer used to sell a pack of 3 o-rings for fixing leaks in the adapter, still does probably

 

Dealer still carries the o ring kit. Just picked one up yesterday for $13.95. They keep it in stock because they are common to replace.

 

Some folks have claimed they've seen red LocTite on those bolt threads.

 

Anyone ever try hitting it with a smoke wrench first?

 

I linked up three spanners and failed
The real pain is you can't get a decent bar on it because there isn't enough space. I've got the right size torx bit with a 10mm hex on the other end, but I need to go and buy a 3ft 10mm ring spanner! hehehe.

 

Might try getting a pipe wrench on it

 

Mine came off rather easily. 5/8 box wrench with a 17mm acting as a breaker bar setup. But, i do have the oil pan and front axle housing out of the vehicle right now.