So what's the normal cranks before it should fire? I've had a 1986 golf mk2 and it started almost directly and that was the same type of ignition system as in the jeep, except a I4 engine rather than 6.

 

Not the same system. Renix ECU must see a 300 RPM signal from the CPS for a certain period of time before it signals the coil to fire and injectors to provide fuel. It's an oddball system designed by Renault and Bendix. Works fine,but has longer than normal crank times as we're used to.

 

Ah, thought the general distributor systems shared some things in common except the parts but well, the electricals behind it are different.

 

A mechanical problem has been bothering me for the last day or two. I've in the process of removing my leaf springs and i've got the main 2 bolts holding it to the body but not the 4 bolts holding it to the wheel "bar".

How hard are they torqued? I seriously can't get them loose at all and i've soaked them in crc 5-56 for 2-3 prior as well when trying to remove them.

I've used a 19 socket to get them loose since nothing else will fit as snug but now i'm really considering in using a blowtorch to get them loose enough.

Got any tips or will I need to use a blowtorch?

 

Sometimes heating and then allowing them to cool 3 different times will break the rust.

 

Yep, since I don't usually stock a blowtorch I'd like to get by without one but seems like i'm against a wall on what to do. I've ordered a blowtorch either way, seems like something that I might need in the future on this XJ.

 

Just get a map torch - easily refillable burns pretty hot and cheap

 

Yep - ordered one of those :P aren't they the same as a blow torch? Or are blow torches usually referring to industrial applications?

 

Eh pretty much the same i guess except most of the time people use propane which doesnt burn as hot

 

I've been reading up on some stuff about the rear axle of my Jeep which supposedly is a Dana 35 (need to check to confirm) and that a lot of people have broken them, had have them breaking down just randomly etc and even running into problems when installing bigger tires/suspension.

That being said, how complicated is the process of changing it out for a Dana 44? Is the process mostly bolt off - bolt on or do I need to change something in the mounting for the axle to the frame?

Also, which models would fit a cherokee from 1988? Im guessing the D44's came mostly on wranglers as "standard" or easier to find (stronger axle for off road rather than on tarmac).

Been checking it out and doesn't seem to be that complicated to drop the whole rear axle and remove it - not a lot holding it together.

 

It would have to be a 44 out of an XJ. Bolts right in. A Chrysler 8.25 out of a later XJ works well also and is easier to convert to rear disc brakes.

 

Hm, but finding a D44 from an old XJ will be kinda tough though right? Wasn't standard a D35?

 

Yes. 8.25s are much more plentiful.

 

Alright - a little update.

I found out that my rear axle is a Dana 35, which you all probably knew. Is there a guaranteed size for the rear brake shoes? there are 10" 1/2 and 3/4 - don't know which to order.

Also, I "dropped" the fueltank it was leaking pretty bad, the right strap was the only thing holding it from just spilling everything on the floor. But, one of the bolts holding the straps came loose - I figure I'll just replace both of them (better to be safe) but where are they able to be bought? Heard a bit that they are quite expensive.

Also, the fuel pump, is sitting at the front of the tank from what I can see - How to you remove it? it has a few cables and hoses going into it and I dont wanna remove them.

That's it for now.

 

I'm pretty sure they're just J straps and you can get them at any auto parts store