New XJ 1988 owner
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 735
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From: Los Banos CA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I never actually got around to installing a kit on my xj when I had it. The writeup for the fix solved the problems a friend was having when he installed his keyless entry in his 90 xj. He used a Clifford kit. Not sure the model but it did have remote start that he did get working.
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Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
From: Stockholm, Sweden
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Great! Ill try the fix whenever I get the chance. I probably won't be installing a remote key entry kit, I'd prefer to leave the jeep as original as possible, less electrics = less problem (I guess).
I'm in the market for ordering a new fuel tank, mine is leaking very very slightly on the right hand side, but not dripping. Is it possible to do this solo without raising the vehicle? The fuel tank is full at the moment so emptying is probably the first issue, is there an easy way to do it? Or just punch a hole in the tank (haha).
I guess I could take a hose and do it that way but well, if there's an easier way i'd do that.
I'm in the market for ordering a new fuel tank, mine is leaking very very slightly on the right hand side, but not dripping. Is it possible to do this solo without raising the vehicle? The fuel tank is full at the moment so emptying is probably the first issue, is there an easy way to do it? Or just punch a hole in the tank (haha).
I guess I could take a hose and do it that way but well, if there's an easier way i'd do that.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
From: Stockholm, Sweden
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
From: Stockholm, Sweden
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I was reading up on things on the Jeep and noticed how the system is closed and went out to check the overflow tank which is totally empty. Shouldn't it be holding a bit of coolant?
And how do I refill the system? Since it's used I want to make sure that everything has a proper level och coolant as well as oil so I was wondering what types of oil i should purchase for:
Transmission
Engine
Transfer case
Differentials
And how do I refill the system? Since it's used I want to make sure that everything has a proper level och coolant as well as oil so I was wondering what types of oil i should purchase for:
Transmission
Engine
Transfer case
Differentials
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,578
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I was reading up on things on the Jeep and noticed how the system is closed and went out to check the overflow tank which is totally empty. Shouldn't it be holding a bit of coolant?
And how do I refill the system? Since it's used I want to make sure that everything has a proper level och coolant as well as oil so I was wondering what types of oil i should purchase for:
Transmission
Engine
Transfer case
Differentials
And how do I refill the system? Since it's used I want to make sure that everything has a proper level och coolant as well as oil so I was wondering what types of oil i should purchase for:
Transmission
Engine
Transfer case
Differentials
Check this out from the FSM
This system does not have a radiator pressure cap. Instead the pressure cap is mounted on the coolant pressure bottle. System coolant flows directly through a fully pressurized Hot-Type expansion bottle. Coolant flows through the pressure bottle at all times during engine operation whether the engine is cold or at normal operating temperatures.
Larger coolant volume caused by thermal expansion during engine operation is absorbed by the expansion chamber in the bottle. Air trapped in the system is purged through the pressure cap vent valve during maximum coolant expansion..
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Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
From: Stockholm, Sweden
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Fill the bottle to just above the little pipe in there. Here's what the factory service manual says about your system:
Check this out from the FSM
This system does not have a radiator pressure cap. Instead the pressure cap is mounted on the coolant pressure bottle. System coolant flows directly through a fully pressurized Hot-Type expansion bottle. Coolant flows through the pressure bottle at all times during engine operation whether the engine is cold or at normal operating temperatures.
Larger coolant volume caused by thermal expansion during engine operation is absorbed by the expansion chamber in the bottle. Air trapped in the system is purged through the pressure cap vent valve during maximum coolant expansion..
Check this out from the FSM
This system does not have a radiator pressure cap. Instead the pressure cap is mounted on the coolant pressure bottle. System coolant flows directly through a fully pressurized Hot-Type expansion bottle. Coolant flows through the pressure bottle at all times during engine operation whether the engine is cold or at normal operating temperatures.
Larger coolant volume caused by thermal expansion during engine operation is absorbed by the expansion chamber in the bottle. Air trapped in the system is purged through the pressure cap vent valve during maximum coolant expansion..
On another note, i've noticed a lot of interior things are broken or need to be fixed. The roof light for the passengers is missing, as is the "thing" infront of the rearview mirror. Quite a few plastic things are broken in the boot (the covers on the left etc)....where can I get these things? I doubt scrapyards here in Sweden have them and there are basically none of these "remove it yourself" yards left.
Any good websites in the US for these misc items?
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Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 781
Likes: 2
From: Dawson Springs, KY
Year: 1985
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5L
Great! Ill try the fix whenever I get the chance. I probably won't be installing a remote key entry kit, I'd prefer to leave the jeep as original as possible, less electrics = less problem (I guess).
I'm in the market for ordering a new fuel tank, mine is leaking very very slightly on the right hand side, but not dripping. Is it possible to do this solo without raising the vehicle? The fuel tank is full at the moment so emptying is probably the first issue, is there an easy way to do it? Or just punch a hole in the tank (haha).
I guess I could take a hose and do it that way but well, if there's an easier way i'd do that.
I'm in the market for ordering a new fuel tank, mine is leaking very very slightly on the right hand side, but not dripping. Is it possible to do this solo without raising the vehicle? The fuel tank is full at the moment so emptying is probably the first issue, is there an easy way to do it? Or just punch a hole in the tank (haha).
I guess I could take a hose and do it that way but well, if there's an easier way i'd do that.
I pulled the rear wheels up on some ramps and it was very easy to get to everything. Probably the toughest thing was the two rubber grommets in the top for the return lines I think from the vapor canister, had to work them in with a flat blade screw driver working around them slowly. Also I had trouble getting to the hose clamps holding the tube to the filler, that is a rather tight spot. The nuts on the J-bolts that hold the straps were a pain because the part of the bolt that protrudes is too long even for a deep well socket. Had to get started on those with an end wrench, I should have purchased one of those ratchets that allow the bolt to pass through. Those are long, find threaded bolts so it takes a while to get them loose, soak them a few days in advance with penetrating oil if they are rusty.
Putting the new one in, I had to hold the tank up with my knees, align the filler hoses, then get the nuts started on the straps. Once you get those started the rest is easy, just snugging it back up into place, let the strap nuts pull the tank up, wiggling it as you go to make sure is sets into place.
Overall it wasn't that bad to do. Oh and if you can get the fuel lines off it is easier to put the sending unit in outside the vehicle, don't try it while the tank is partially installed like I did, getting the lock ring in place is a bear that way lol.
Also I bought the Spectra Premium fuel tank, was about $130 at Advanced Auto, and I believe several places have them online about the same price. 20 gallon tank is exact same dimensions as the 13 gallon one, and the 20 is usually cheaper.
Last edited by jedijeb; Jul 20, 2013 at 09:46 AM.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
From: Stockholm, Sweden
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Gray - don't know the code though.
Thanks for the write up and tips, doesn't sound to painfull to do. I checked on the nuts on those long threaded bolts and they were indeed very rusty so i soaked them yesterday and will do the same today just for good measure.
I noticed that the bolt is straight when going up to the belt holding the tank but from the tank to the frame, it's a bit bent towards the frame - is that standard? I'm guessing it is since it's the same on the other side but can't be too carefull when holding around 18 gallons of fuel.
I just replaced the fuel tank in my 85XJ. I did it by myself in less than a day, also did the rear shocks while I had the tank out, and the rear diff fluid. Having the tank out gave a lot of room to do the other work.
I pulled the rear wheels up on some ramps and it was very easy to get to everything. Probably the toughest thing was the two rubber grommets in the top for the return lines I think from the vapor canister, had to work them in with a flat blade screw driver working around them slowly. Also I had trouble getting to the hose clamps holding the tube to the filler, that is a rather tight spot. The nuts on the J-bolts that hold the straps were a pain because the part of the bolt that protrudes is too long even for a deep well socket. Had to get started on those with an end wrench, I should have purchased one of those ratchets that allow the bolt to pass through. Those are long, find threaded bolts so it takes a while to get them loose, soak them a few days in advance with penetrating oil if they are rusty.
Putting the new one in, I had to hold the tank up with my knees, align the filler hoses, then get the nuts started on the straps. Once you get those started the rest is easy, just snugging it back up into place, let the strap nuts pull the tank up, wiggling it as you go to make sure is sets into place.
Overall it wasn't that bad to do. Oh and if you can get the fuel lines off it is easier to put the sending unit in outside the vehicle, don't try it while the tank is partially installed like I did, getting the lock ring in place is a bear that way lol.
Also I bought the Spectra Premium fuel tank, was about $130 at Advanced Auto, and I believe several places have them online about the same price. 20 gallon tank is exact same dimensions as the 13 gallon one, and the 20 is usually cheaper.
I pulled the rear wheels up on some ramps and it was very easy to get to everything. Probably the toughest thing was the two rubber grommets in the top for the return lines I think from the vapor canister, had to work them in with a flat blade screw driver working around them slowly. Also I had trouble getting to the hose clamps holding the tube to the filler, that is a rather tight spot. The nuts on the J-bolts that hold the straps were a pain because the part of the bolt that protrudes is too long even for a deep well socket. Had to get started on those with an end wrench, I should have purchased one of those ratchets that allow the bolt to pass through. Those are long, find threaded bolts so it takes a while to get them loose, soak them a few days in advance with penetrating oil if they are rusty.
Putting the new one in, I had to hold the tank up with my knees, align the filler hoses, then get the nuts started on the straps. Once you get those started the rest is easy, just snugging it back up into place, let the strap nuts pull the tank up, wiggling it as you go to make sure is sets into place.
Overall it wasn't that bad to do. Oh and if you can get the fuel lines off it is easier to put the sending unit in outside the vehicle, don't try it while the tank is partially installed like I did, getting the lock ring in place is a bear that way lol.
Also I bought the Spectra Premium fuel tank, was about $130 at Advanced Auto, and I believe several places have them online about the same price. 20 gallon tank is exact same dimensions as the 13 gallon one, and the 20 is usually cheaper.
I noticed that the bolt is straight when going up to the belt holding the tank but from the tank to the frame, it's a bit bent towards the frame - is that standard? I'm guessing it is since it's the same on the other side but can't be too carefull when holding around 18 gallons of fuel.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 781
Likes: 2
From: Dawson Springs, KY
Year: 1985
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5L
Gray - don't know the code though.
Thanks for the write up and tips, doesn't sound to painfull to do. I checked on the nuts on those long threaded bolts and they were indeed very rusty so i soaked them yesterday and will do the same today just for good measure.
I noticed that the bolt is straight when going up to the belt holding the tank but from the tank to the frame, it's a bit bent towards the frame - is that standard? I'm guessing it is since it's the same on the other side but can't be too carefull when holding around 18 gallons of fuel.
Thanks for the write up and tips, doesn't sound to painfull to do. I checked on the nuts on those long threaded bolts and they were indeed very rusty so i soaked them yesterday and will do the same today just for good measure.
I noticed that the bolt is straight when going up to the belt holding the tank but from the tank to the frame, it's a bit bent towards the frame - is that standard? I'm guessing it is since it's the same on the other side but can't be too carefull when holding around 18 gallons of fuel.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
From: Stockholm, Sweden
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
From: Stockholm, Sweden
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Just got my oil pressure sender off the car. It was on there really tight, could barely get it off. Took my multimeter and measured the resistance and it was all over the place, sometimes as low as 5 ohm and sometimes as high as 77. Shouldn't it be a static number, or as close to static as possible? Anyways, going to replace it either way.'
Will be uploading pictures of the interior stuff that's missing/broken and if anybody could point me in the right direction of part numbers or scrap yards that would be awesome.
Will be uploading pictures of the interior stuff that's missing/broken and if anybody could point me in the right direction of part numbers or scrap yards that would be awesome.


