The car had NGK plugs in them (BKR6E) and the one on cylinder 2 was quite oily, which in my book, never is a good sign. The plugs were quite worn but they will be switched for new ones. Any good model to recommend? It's the I6 4.0L of course.

I've got the throttle body with me home and tried to find some alcohol to clean it with but what should I use? As pure as one can get around here is about 85% and thats disinfectant for hands which I wouldn't want to use to clean the throttle body. Will acetone work?

The bolts on the intake manifold (the big plastic tube from the airfilter box to the body) were very tight but the metal ring holding the tube to the airbox was very very loose.

Also, the battery read about 12.5 volts - which should be enough to crank the engine around and start it but it seems that i have to hold the key in the ignition mode for a good 5 seconds to get it to start, and most of the time it starts on the 3rd+ try - could it be the starter motor?

 

NGKs again. The intake manifold to head bolts is what I'm referring to. Aluminum piece the throttle body is bolted to. Where that meets the engine. Use a new throttle body gakset also.

Clean the throttle body with whatever you've got. It's not sensitive to that stuff at all.

 

Ah, well those were solid as rock to the engine And a gasket was not present.....ouch.

Alright, cool - ill get to it.

 

No gasket under the throttle body?

 

Nope just pure metal on metal....somebody had probably taken it off and not change it.

I've got a tube of loctite quick casket which is said to withstand 250C, im guessing that will work just fine - seems somebody has used it for the headgasket aswell - seems to be sticking out a bit to much.

Oh, one more thing, my fuel tank seems to be leaking a bit on the "left" side (when looking under the car). It's just wet there and not on the other side so I'm guessing a change of tanks are in order. Is it a tough procedure? Doesn't seem to be much holding it in place.

 

I like gaskets better than "goop", but that's up to you.

Tank is not hard to remove.

 

Ill try my "goop" and check if there's a leak before running it on the street.

Back to the spark plugs. Are there any ones that are used from manufacturing or any NGK with the right gap or do i need to set it myself?

And the oily spark plug - is that a major cause for concern? If a piston seal is bad, well, that'll be expensive to fix since I can't do it myself. It was only on one cylinder which is good.

Next ill try to clean the injectors and check out the fuel rail and after that the exhaust manifold since that's a common problem (cracking).

 

NGK 7252 gapped to .035"

Throttle Body Gasket is $2. Get one.

Worry about the oily plug after you get the basics done.

 

Thanks.

Have any part no. on that gasket? Since I don't live in the US parts for the Jeep are a bit harder to come by that's why I was going to use the loctite gasket "goop".

 

Nope, it's the same everywhere. Just look up the gasket from your local parts house in whatever country you are in.


Make sure to fill out your forum profile with your location and basics of your XJ so we can provide more specific info for your country's variant.

 

NGKs are sold world wide. Get cap, rotor and wires while you're at it.

What country are you in?

 

We'll see what I go with, I'm in no hurry to fit the TB back anyways

I'm probably gonna order those from morris 4x4 since importing them from the states is a lot cheaper than buying them here.

I'm from Sweden and most parts for jeeps are from the states except 100% more expensive

One other thing. The closed cooling system, how does one go about to do maintenance on it or is it just not possible? Why i'm wondering is that the jeep is running a bit hotter than my other cars. The temp gauge also seems to stay "on" when the car is off i.e that the needle was in the middle, it doesn't fall down to low when the car is off. The same with the fuel gauge but that doesn't really matter.

 

Cleaned up the C101 connector now, almost doused the thing in electrical cleaner. Hopefully it will make something better - it's good to have it cleaned either way.

Opened up my airfilter box and noticed....there's no filter!! Just a lot of crap and stuff which can't be too good if it gets into the TB.

I was thinking of removing the exhaust manifold and checking it for cracks and just plain wear. Is it worth doing or are the cracks hard to spot? I'm guessing that I will need to change the gasket too?

I've run into som lock issues with my doors and i've got no clue as in how they are supposed to operate. My front passenger side door, the tumbler is broken somehow, they key doesn't fit. The rear doors dont have any so they need to be locked from the inside and the driver side door just locks THAT door and no other.

Is that the way is it is supposed to work? I've got the limited version so I have electrical switches to lock/unlock all the doors but it doesn't toggle 100% and leaves the door still unlocked.

Is it a similar tumbler for the boot? I don't even have a key for it.

So, two things;

1. How can I change the key tumbler and keep the same key? Not possible I'm guessing.
2. How can I fix so the doors lock/unlock via the switch? Seems to be a loose connection and not a bad switch.

 

Take your passenger tumbler to a locksmith with your door keey and have it rebuilt.

Here's a fix for lazy door locks:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showpost....87&postcount=2

Do the ground refreshing in my signature link. #1.

 

I highly recommend doing the power lock fix! Makes installing aftermarket keyless entry so much easier down the road!