Need your opinion!!!
#1
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Year: 1997
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Engine: 4.0 H.O.
Need your opinion!!!
Ok guys,
I know I have posted on here before along with many others about there over-heating issues. I now think my gauge has gone bad. This is what I have replaced/ done to rectify my over-heating issue:
1) Flushed OE radiator and flushed overflow bottle
2) Replaced OE radiator with CSF 3-core radiator
3) Replaced Waterpump
4) Replaced T-stat with heavyduty 195 degree
5) Replaced Temp. Sensor
6) Replaced Temp. Sending Unit
7) Replaced Serpintine Belt
8) Burped all air out of system
Now, after all this, while warming up, the needle will go almost to the red before the t-stat opens and then the needle goes back down and stays just above 210. If I stop, the needle goes up to 220-225 and will come back down once moving to just above 210, never at or below 210.
At work I have access to a heat gun, I have an hour drive to work and I used the heat gun after making the drive in so my rig was good and warmed up. I took readings on the t-stat housing, hoses, waterpump and temp. sending unit(on back of head) and I could not find a reading any higher than 200 but my gauge showed 225+. For good measure, the next morning I did the same thing but I only drove it for approx 10 min and the gauge read 225+, the heat gun read only 175.
Do you think my gauge has gone out or is there something I have bypassed and should replace/ do to my baby.
Thanks in advance!!
LCFRJEEP
I know I have posted on here before along with many others about there over-heating issues. I now think my gauge has gone bad. This is what I have replaced/ done to rectify my over-heating issue:
1) Flushed OE radiator and flushed overflow bottle
2) Replaced OE radiator with CSF 3-core radiator
3) Replaced Waterpump
4) Replaced T-stat with heavyduty 195 degree
5) Replaced Temp. Sensor
6) Replaced Temp. Sending Unit
7) Replaced Serpintine Belt
8) Burped all air out of system
Now, after all this, while warming up, the needle will go almost to the red before the t-stat opens and then the needle goes back down and stays just above 210. If I stop, the needle goes up to 220-225 and will come back down once moving to just above 210, never at or below 210.
At work I have access to a heat gun, I have an hour drive to work and I used the heat gun after making the drive in so my rig was good and warmed up. I took readings on the t-stat housing, hoses, waterpump and temp. sending unit(on back of head) and I could not find a reading any higher than 200 but my gauge showed 225+. For good measure, the next morning I did the same thing but I only drove it for approx 10 min and the gauge read 225+, the heat gun read only 175.
Do you think my gauge has gone out or is there something I have bypassed and should replace/ do to my baby.
Thanks in advance!!
LCFRJEEP
#3
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Location: Fort Smith, AR
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If the fans are turning the right direction, and everything is new or fixed. I'd add some 40below, two bottles can't hurt. Also, a 195 T-stat holds the water in your block for a longer time, it gets hotter before it let's it out. It may not be able to cool it after it gets that temp. Engines are all different, some like different T-stat temps. I run 160 in my hotrods, it keeps that water circulating as fast as possible.
I still use 40below. I use the Royal Purple brand. My hotrod ran 220, which isn't bad for what it is, but scarey and you watch it nonstop. I added Purple to it and it runs 190-200, so I'll add a second bottle and call it good.
I still use 40below. I use the Royal Purple brand. My hotrod ran 220, which isn't bad for what it is, but scarey and you watch it nonstop. I added Purple to it and it runs 190-200, so I'll add a second bottle and call it good.
#5
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Year: 2004
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.7L V8
A secondary reason for the t-stat is to hold the coolant in the rad longer so that the heat can be drawn off by the air passing through. If the coolant flows straight through the rad it doesn't have much time to dissipate any heat.
#6
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#7
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Year: 2001
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Engine: 4.0L I6
Do you know that you're moving your coolant? Sure that your lower hose isn't collapsing and/or needing to be replaced and restricting coolant flow?
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