Hey guys, I'm looking for some help... I am in the process of removing the tranny on my '98 auto XJ. It is leaking tons of tranny fluid out of the bellhousing and bogging into second gear when I had the pedal pinned in the 1-2 gear while out wheeling...

I had (what I thought to be) everything disconnected and I was trying to pull the tranny back off the motor with a come-along strapped to the rear diff. I didnt realize I had to remove the 4 flexplate bolts from the torque converter... I got the tranny about 1.5" off the motor and it just wouldnt go anymore, that is when I realized it.

I am now trying to get the 4 bolts off. I got one out, the next loosened off but isn't backing out.

How do I turn the crank to access all 4 bolts?? By turning the 3/4" bolt at the front of the motor at the harmonic balancer crank pulley??

Do you think I could have damaged anything by yanking the tranny back while the torque converter bolts were still in?

Any input is appreciated...Im losing my mind with this task!

 

you can turn the flywheel with a good screwdriver, just dont chip any teeth. they actually make a flywheel spinner tool but I use a screwdriver with no problems.

 

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You could turn the motor over at the crank pulley. If you can, have somebody turn the motor over for you with a breaker bar and watch and listen for any abnormal noises as your taking off the bolts.

I dont think you could do to much damage by pulling it... When you get them separated just have a peak at the flywheel and make sure it isnt warped.

 

Ok, are you hammering the screwdriver in order for it to turn?


Ok so I dont need to loosen the serpentine belt or anything? The crank pulley should be able to turn with a breaker bar and not overtighten the pulley bolt?

 

No you dont have to loosen the belt. You wont be able to over torque the bolt if the motor is turning. That bolt is torqued down to at least 80ft lbs so the motor will spin long before you hit the 80ft lb mark.

 

Ok so I just throw a 3/4" socket and breaker on at the harmonic balancer and should be good to go?

 

Omg people. Stop giving horrible advice. You bent the hell out of your flex flate, and possibly demolished your torque converter.

This process does not need a damn hammer.

A socket and breaker bar on the harmonic balancer will hold the crank in place while you loosen the flywheel to converter bolts loose. If it takes more than that there is an issue.

 

Yup! Let us know if you run into any issues!

 

I was planning to put in a new torque converter while I was in there so hopefully its all good even if I did damage it...

My problem is not holding the crank in place, it's being able to turn it so I can loosen all 4 of those flexplate bolts. Right now I can only see 2 and the crank wont spin. (I tried it with a breaker bar but didnt crank it too hard yet...)


Ok thanks man!

 

Who is giving horible advice? He wants to know how to access the other two bolts! I suggested spinning the motor at the crank pulley. Whats so bad about that?

 

You should be able to turn that motor with one arm. If its still not moving try loosing the belt and see if that helps...

 

Okay yeah your right i bled this thread into another one. Im sorry about that.

Breaker bar on the balancer will turn the crank, and allow you to access the other bolts.

But relize you pulling and prying has demolished that flywheel. And hopefully nothing else beyond thw converter.

Always replace converters, they are cheap and therw is no point not too.

The flywheel tool is very available and very cheap by the way

 

Unscrew the plugs and it'll turn over easier.

 

1) The torque converter is a slip-fit into the transmission, it's not fixed. So, you shouldn't have to unbolt the torque converter to remove the transmission (you can do that later, it's easier to stab the transmission back in with the TC in the bellhousing than with it on the flexplate. Replacement of the screws is recommended, LocTite #242 is mandatory. I have removed AW4s while leaving the TC screwed to the flexplate before.

2) I don't recall if they're on the AW4, but I know the manual transmissions have two extra bellhousing screws that go in from the front of the vehicle.

Your quick description of the leak indicates one or two possible problems:
A) Front pump seal (likely.) Seals against the snout of the torque converter. Check the TC snout for defect outside, clean up with emery cloth or crocus cloth if possible/necessary. Use a light oil to lubricate the emery/crocus for an effective polish, WD-40, machine oil, or honing oil will all work well. Inspect the snout for a worn groove as well - easily done with a thumbnail. If there's a groove, Fel-Pro makes a "sleeve & seal" kit that will allow the installation of a polished sleeve to renew the TC sealing surface, requires no machining.
B) Front pump O-ring (unlikely - no relative movement.) This is the very large O-ring that is wrapped around the front pump housing, it's about 8" across. I've only seen this as part of a reseal kit, but I honestly haven't looked very hard for it (last times I needed to replace this O-ring, it was because I'd "unpacked" the transmission for overhaul anyhow.)

It's far more likely to have the front pump seal fail - it's under pressure (the O-ring is a "bath seal,") and there's relative motion between the parts (the front pump is screwed in place, so there's no movement between them.) I also find it helpful to put a good smear of RTV black on the outside of the metal seal shell before it gets knocked into place.