Need help with removing tranny and flexplate bolts!
Haha yup I hear ya...always good when the tool collection grows!
The tips are appreciated forsure! I like the flexplate "ting" tip, Ill have to check that.
So while I've got this thing out is this all I should pretty much be replacing? Just the pump seal and torque converter..?
Im hoping this fixes my bogging into 2nd shifting issue. I was looking into replacing the solenoids but I think that can be done when its in the jeep just as easy I guess..
The tips are appreciated forsure! I like the flexplate "ting" tip, Ill have to check that.
So while I've got this thing out is this all I should pretty much be replacing? Just the pump seal and torque converter..?
Im hoping this fixes my bogging into 2nd shifting issue. I was looking into replacing the solenoids but I think that can be done when its in the jeep just as easy I guess..
However, the solenoids in the AW4 (both shift and the TCC lockup) are readily accessed by removing the sump pan - you can see all three of them easily from there. One screw to remove. They should (I believe) test out at 12-16 ohms between the tab/terminal and case, and you should feel a good, positive "click" if/when you apply power to them (make sure you can supply at least 1 Ampere.)
The solenoids in the AW4 are pretty rugged - it's uncommon to hear of needing to replace them.
The front pump seal doesn't usually cause shifting issues, except as secondary to fluid loss.
However, the solenoids in the AW4 (both shift and the TCC lockup) are readily accessed by removing the sump pan - you can see all three of them easily from there. One screw to remove. They should (I believe) test out at 12-16 ohms between the tab/terminal and case, and you should feel a good, positive "click" if/when you apply power to them (make sure you can supply at least 1 Ampere.)
The solenoids in the AW4 are pretty rugged - it's uncommon to hear of needing to replace them.
However, the solenoids in the AW4 (both shift and the TCC lockup) are readily accessed by removing the sump pan - you can see all three of them easily from there. One screw to remove. They should (I believe) test out at 12-16 ohms between the tab/terminal and case, and you should feel a good, positive "click" if/when you apply power to them (make sure you can supply at least 1 Ampere.)
The solenoids in the AW4 are pretty rugged - it's uncommon to hear of needing to replace them.
Hmm yea it may have been acting up due to fluid loss, although after I had the shifting issue I drove it home 150kms without too much issue and noticed the fluid leak when I parked it in my garage...I then drained the pan and there was quite a bit of tranny fluid left in there.
I guess I will do a new torque converter and pump seal then put the tranny back in. I can always do the solenoids after if it's still acting up...
Well....I finally got everything put back together and tried to drive it out of the garage...jeep fired up then nothing..won't move at all...damn it!!
It shifts through the gears and shows reverse lights etc but does not move at all. I revved it a bit and the jeep twitched a bit.
Any input on this??
I put fluid in the torque converter before I put it on. everything else should be back in place and good to go... This wasnt the outcome I had hoped for!
It shifts through the gears and shows reverse lights etc but does not move at all. I revved it a bit and the jeep twitched a bit.
Any input on this??
I put fluid in the torque converter before I put it on. everything else should be back in place and good to go... This wasnt the outcome I had hoped for!
I put in about 3Litres...which I guess would be about .8 of a gallon...
I read somewhere that it took about 3 L though..? THe tranny dipstick is reading full...
Seasoned Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 379
Likes: 2
From: Jersey
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
8.5 quarts i've read. Checking trans oil can be tricky sometimes because you fill through the dipstick tube and when you check theres residual in the tube that can give you a false reading. You can wait awhile and check it a bunch of times without it running and see where your at on the stick then ck it in neutral running
8.5 quarts i've read. Checking trans oil can be tricky sometimes because you fill through the dipstick tube and when you check theres residual in the tube that can give you a false reading. You can wait awhile and check it a bunch of times without it running and see where your at on the stick then ck it in neutral running
Ok right on, I put a bunch more fluid in today and now its back up to full on the dipstick.
I would love to check it while its running but now the damn thing wont start.... just clicks once when I try to turn over and then there's no power at all for a few minutes after that til it randomly comes back, allowing me to click the starter once, again.... sigh.
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
From: Center of H$^^, CA
Year: 1988
Model: Comanche
Engine: AMC 150
Ok right on, I put a bunch more fluid in today and now its back up to full on the dipstick.
I would love to check it while its running but now the damn thing wont start.... just clicks once when I try to turn over and then there's no power at all for a few minutes after that til it randomly comes back, allowing me to click the starter once, again.... sigh.
I would love to check it while its running but now the damn thing wont start.... just clicks once when I try to turn over and then there's no power at all for a few minutes after that til it randomly comes back, allowing me to click the starter once, again.... sigh.
I got it all running now (thank god!!) but i have a rattle type sound coming from the bellhousing. Im thinking it must be something to do with the flexplate bolts etc... I hope the flexplate isnt pooched, it looked fine and I didnt see any cracks. I am going to pull the inspection cover and make sure all my bolts are tight (I did use locktite)
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