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Need help with removing tranny and flexplate bolts!

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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 08:48 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by dubbleJ's
Haha yup I hear ya...always good when the tool collection grows!



The tips are appreciated forsure! I like the flexplate "ting" tip, Ill have to check that.


So while I've got this thing out is this all I should pretty much be replacing? Just the pump seal and torque converter..?


Im hoping this fixes my bogging into 2nd shifting issue. I was looking into replacing the solenoids but I think that can be done when its in the jeep just as easy I guess..
The front pump seal doesn't usually cause shifting issues, except as secondary to fluid loss.

However, the solenoids in the AW4 (both shift and the TCC lockup) are readily accessed by removing the sump pan - you can see all three of them easily from there. One screw to remove. They should (I believe) test out at 12-16 ohms between the tab/terminal and case, and you should feel a good, positive "click" if/when you apply power to them (make sure you can supply at least 1 Ampere.)

The solenoids in the AW4 are pretty rugged - it's uncommon to hear of needing to replace them.
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 10:57 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by 5-90
The front pump seal doesn't usually cause shifting issues, except as secondary to fluid loss.

However, the solenoids in the AW4 (both shift and the TCC lockup) are readily accessed by removing the sump pan - you can see all three of them easily from there. One screw to remove. They should (I believe) test out at 12-16 ohms between the tab/terminal and case, and you should feel a good, positive "click" if/when you apply power to them (make sure you can supply at least 1 Ampere.)

The solenoids in the AW4 are pretty rugged - it's uncommon to hear of needing to replace them.

Hmm yea it may have been acting up due to fluid loss, although after I had the shifting issue I drove it home 150kms without too much issue and noticed the fluid leak when I parked it in my garage...I then drained the pan and there was quite a bit of tranny fluid left in there.
I guess I will do a new torque converter and pump seal then put the tranny back in. I can always do the solenoids after if it's still acting up...
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Old Nov 15, 2012 | 02:35 AM
  #33  
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Well....I finally got everything put back together and tried to drive it out of the garage...jeep fired up then nothing..won't move at all...damn it!!
It shifts through the gears and shows reverse lights etc but does not move at all. I revved it a bit and the jeep twitched a bit.

Any input on this??

I put fluid in the torque converter before I put it on. everything else should be back in place and good to go... This wasnt the outcome I had hoped for!

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Old Nov 15, 2012 | 07:04 AM
  #34  
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How much fluid ya put in the trans? Had a friend put only two quarts in on his!! He told me it wasnt moving LOL. You need about 2 gallons if im not mistaken
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Old Nov 15, 2012 | 12:52 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Littlethunder92
How much fluid ya put in the trans? Had a friend put only two quarts in on his!! He told me it wasnt moving LOL. You need about 2 gallons if im not mistaken

I put in about 3Litres...which I guess would be about .8 of a gallon...

I read somewhere that it took about 3 L though..? THe tranny dipstick is reading full...
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Old Nov 15, 2012 | 06:49 PM
  #36  
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8.5 quarts i've read. Checking trans oil can be tricky sometimes because you fill through the dipstick tube and when you check theres residual in the tube that can give you a false reading. You can wait awhile and check it a bunch of times without it running and see where your at on the stick then ck it in neutral running
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Old Nov 15, 2012 | 10:01 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Littlethunder92
8.5 quarts i've read. Checking trans oil can be tricky sometimes because you fill through the dipstick tube and when you check theres residual in the tube that can give you a false reading. You can wait awhile and check it a bunch of times without it running and see where your at on the stick then ck it in neutral running

Ok right on, I put a bunch more fluid in today and now its back up to full on the dipstick.
I would love to check it while its running but now the damn thing wont start.... just clicks once when I try to turn over and then there's no power at all for a few minutes after that til it randomly comes back, allowing me to click the starter once, again.... sigh.
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Old Nov 16, 2012 | 09:47 AM
  #38  
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Is the NSS hooked up correctly?
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Old Nov 16, 2012 | 01:24 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by cmartin2112
Is the NSS hooked up correctly?
Yep I didnt pull it off the tranny I just unplugged it up in the engine bay, its plugged back in and should be good to go.
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Old Nov 16, 2012 | 01:44 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by dubbleJ's
Ok right on, I put a bunch more fluid in today and now its back up to full on the dipstick.
I would love to check it while its running but now the damn thing wont start.... just clicks once when I try to turn over and then there's no power at all for a few minutes after that til it randomly comes back, allowing me to click the starter once, again.... sigh.
I had that problem in a nissan when i hooked up the starter wrong, the click and nothing is a protective from a massive short if all your lights and accessories go out. try checking how the battery cables are attached to the starter? food for thought
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Old Nov 17, 2012 | 01:09 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by IdleSerivice
I had that problem in a nissan when i hooked up the starter wrong, the click and nothing is a protective from a massive short if all your lights and accessories go out. try checking how the battery cables are attached to the starter? food for thought
I ended up putting my old starter back in, still clicked. Then I cleaned my batt ground to motor, and snipped fresh wire for the batt posts and replaced the positive post and she fired up!


I got it all running now (thank god!!) but i have a rattle type sound coming from the bellhousing. Im thinking it must be something to do with the flexplate bolts etc... I hope the flexplate isnt pooched, it looked fine and I didnt see any cracks. I am going to pull the inspection cover and make sure all my bolts are tight (I did use locktite)
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