fabricationman

Ok, so I did this awesome and detailed post on some helpful hints on XJ engine replacement that I just learned first hand. And I hit "submit thread."

And the thread promptly vanished...

If anyone needs pointers on hoist chain attachment, removing the pesky E-12 bolts at top of tranny (simplest solution to the problem!), or anything else related to this subject, please contact me and I'll be happy to provide info to hopefully save others from aggravation.

Jim

Previous professional wrench-bearer and always a 4x4 nut... not to mention general know-it-all... ask me, I'll tell you... I know...!

QueenCityXJ

Would you be able to post some photos or some hints and tricks. I have everything taken of of my engine except for three E-Torx transmission bolts and the motor mounts. Anything that I should know that would help is greatly appreciated!

Turbo X_J

Should have been one of the first things you removed.

QueenCityXJ

Do you remember what size those three bolts are?

OleBlue

e-12

Its easiest to take them off before all the other bolts, but its still doable!

fabricationman

Ole Blue and Turbo are right: you'll want to take the torx bolts out before the bigger tranny bellhousing to engine bolts as it does make it easier.

But first thing's first. Have you taken the fiberglass nose off yet? I found out with my 97 that it LOOKS like there's all kind of clearance until the motor's hanging and the crank pulley is trying to bust your nose all to pieces. You'll want the nose, radiator support, and radiator out, and the ac condenser sort of hanging between the bumper and lower rad support. The a/c compressor can sit in the battery tray and then you won't have to undo any lines.

To easily remove the torx bolts, you'll actually want to LOWER the engine and tranny as far as you can. First, put the two big bellhousing bolts back in and snug them down. Remove the nuts and bolts that hold the motor mounts to the subframe. Raise up on the engine with the hoist until you take the pressure off the motor mount bolts, and remove the motor mount bolts that go front to back. Now you can completely remove the rubber part of the mount (the actual motor mount) from the Jeep on both sides. DON'T remove the cast metal mounts that are bolted to the sides of the block. Lower the motor back down until the cast mounts are essentially resting on the subframe. For safety's sake, DO NOT completely release the hoist! Now you have all kinds of room between the firewall and torx bolts! I used an impact gun, long extension, impact universal, and my E-12 impact torx socket and ran them right off. With the motor lowered like this, you can also use an E-12 wrench with a pipe "cheater bar", or a ratchet or breaker bar and socket.

Ok, now that the torx bolts are out, raise the hoist back up, support your tranny, and remove the big tranny bolts you just put back in.
Some wiggling and jiggling, and the motor is out!
Sorry I don't have pictures... didn't think about it until I was about done!
If you have any other questions, shoot them to me!

fabricationman

Oh yeah, and when you get to that point, "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"!

fabricationman

Welcome to the forum, too!

90xjcjf

Hey are there bolts that hold the torque converter to the flywheel like sbc motors? I've never separated a 4.0l from an aw4 before. Sry for this dumb question.

Bryan98XJ

yes there are 4 bolts

90xjcjf

Ok thanks man.

QueenCityXJ

Fabricationman you are the man! I will be tackling it prob tomorrow or before the weekend. One quick question before I get to taking out the engine. My mechanic friend originally told me that my motor was seized up. But I am able to attach a socket to the crankshaft and turn it manually even without a cheater bar. If I can do this, is it still seized up or am I looking at another problem? Also I do have the front end all off. Radiator and all, plus I took off the ac condenser because my ac didn't work anyways. Thanks for the help man!

jeep19xj91

Sounds like your mechanic dont know what hes talking about, if you can turn it over your engine is not seized

jeep19xj91

Are you removing the engine because you believe its seized or do you have other reasons?

QueenCityXJ

I went nose down into a ditch wheeling and it wouldn't start back up and over heated itself badly! We tried everything from new distributor to new crank position sensors, the whole works and nothing worked. I called my mechanic friend and ran him over everything and he looked at it and basically told me it was seized.

I was already planning in taking the engine out and doing a rebuild kit on it in the near future, and now that it wont start it seemed like a good time which is why I was planning on taking out the engine. I have the valve cover and all off and am looking at the head and pistons and I see that my second piston has an edge that looks like it has been chipped at a little bit. What would this mean instead of my engine being seized? If you need anymore info I got loads of it!