Yea now that its clean i got up under there saturday after i replaced my heater control valve and now i can clearly see the oil filter adapter leakin bad. So thats good news.....maybe my oil pan is ok

 

Leaky oil filter adaptor could definitely mimic a leaky oil pan. Definitely start there

 

You're singing my song now.....

I hate to think of the times a RMS has been replaced unnecessarily because of faulty diagnosis.

 

I really hope my RMS is ok....

 

Only one way to find out-fix all the leaks above it.

 

Thats the plan lol. I called the jeep dealer and they have the o-rings in stock so im gonna pick em up tomoro and get em on this week. Iv read on here that I may have to take the bolt off the rear motor mount, but some guys say I wont hafta, it looks like I should have room to get it off though

 

You'll be fine and what you need to do is obvious.

 

Yeah it looks pretty straight foward

 

So i used motor flush a while back and did it by the directions (5 mins idling then change oil) and tomoro I'm gonna fix the oil filter adapter. I want to know if there is any reason to change the oil again. Its only been 1k miles. I don't know if it needs a quicker change this time because of the flush or not????


Also if I change my oil can I reuse the oil filter (I got mobil1 and it wasn't cheap)

 

Just a heads up for, do not use any cork gaskets on anything, today you can get the rubber or composit gaskets for everything.For your interest if you tackle the oilpan gasket get a product called indian glue (iirc on the name) to glue the gasket to the oil pan , so when you install it she will stay in place for you.Just let it dry totally before the install,works for tranny pan and rocker cover too.(works on any gasket, it's like having a third hand at times. Rtv doesn't work as well)g/l

 

Yes you can reuse the filter if it hasn't been very long, next time you do a flush just buy cheap oil to run in it for the short time ,then put the good stuff in after.But you shouldn't have to change your oil if your just replaceing the o-rings.You did do a oil flush after you ran the cleaner in it right?If you did already your fine if not you need to, I believe in it to make sure it's all out , so you don't end up with more crude blocking the screen,because you still had some left in the pan and it keeps cleaning and loosening up gunk.But this is your choice.

 

Of course you would want a new filter after a flush, guess you did that. Changing the O rings won't affect your oil or filter.

I'm not familiar with the sealant Max mentions. (sounds fine). I just wanted to point out anything your gonna let dry with the gasket on better be pretty thin and flat. If I where to apply say, silicone with my finger and left a proud (high), spot, when I bolted it to the block, it can't squish. Might make me grumpy if it was lumpy. Hopefully you won't be pulling the pan, it's not much fun.

When I did my O rings, for some reason I had a ***** or a time simply starting the main bolt back. Thought I had it straight turning it right. Anyway, it went easy,)I would never force something that might be cross threaded(, but it did take me a while.

 

I don't understand why you guys are changing the o-rings in the oil filter adapter. Pull the adapter, take the oil pressure sensor and the threaded oil filter stem off of it, and then THROW IT AWAY! Remove the alignment pin from the block, screw the oil filter stem into the block, and screw the oil filter directly to the engine. There is plenty of room, and the adapter o-rings will NEVER leak again. There are a couple of ports on the passenger side of the engine that you can attach the oil pressure sensor to. I pulled the plug from the rear-most one and put a brass 90 in it facing forward and attached the sensor there. Good luck. Oil changes might be a little messier, but it eliminates a couple failure points, and paper towels are really cheap.

 

I noticed that indian head gasket sealer softens up for a while when you heat up the motor so it actually seals better after the first few times you warm it up. That stuff is sticky as you can imagine if you let it tack up for a while like the directions say. I have to change my adapter too it is leaking but getting that t60 out seems to require a low profile torx, I cant get a ratchet in there. How were you able to get to it with your torx?

 

You shouldn't have to change it again but it would be best to read the instructions on the oil flush can.