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Mechanic says oil leak is bad

Old Jan 31, 2012 | 09:45 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Zach2610
So i took my xj to my mechanic to fix my oil leak, apparently I have multiple leaks and he says "everything that can leak is leaking". So he would have to take the engine out to replace all the gaskets and such. His estimate 1200-1400 bucks.......is that about what I should expect? I don't have that much so I guess ill start saving. I think I'm gonna go ahead and replace the valve cover and oil pan gaskets myself and see about my oil filter adapter. Maybe I can slow the leaks down until I get enough money for that.
Lols wtf 1200-1400.

Ummm valve cover is a piece cake to replace im pretty low on the mechanically inclined list thought I might add that in. When I did it i went to town with paint and new breather cause i broke it,PCV for giggles with new grommets. The rear main seal is a pain in the you know to get to but the seal replacement itself is easy yet a bit tricky.

Then again I have a lift so it may be a little harder for you if you dont.



Last edited by bigboy813; Jan 31, 2012 at 09:52 PM.
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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 09:54 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by crbnfibr
how do you guys feel about cleaning first than lookin for the leak?
Yea! Good point. I suppose I'd deal with the valve cover, then blast it and go after the O rings and check that distributor.
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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 05:24 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by crbnfibr
how do you guys feel about cleaning first than lookin for the leak?
Always a good idea. If it's oily on top you should be able to see it, too, even before cleaning. Don't get the TPS wet.
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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 08:00 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by bigboy813

Lols wtf 1200-1400.

Ummm valve cover is a piece cake to replace im pretty low on the mechanically inclined list thought I might add that in. When I did it i went to town with paint and new breather cause i broke it,PCV for giggles with new grommets. The rear main seal is a pain in the you know to get to but the seal replacement itself is easy yet a bit tricky.

Then again I have a lift so it may be a little harder for you if you dont.
I like the paint lol
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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 10:30 AM
  #35  
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take about $5.00 in quarters, maybe a can of engine degreaser and go spend some quality time at the car wash. and keep on cleaning until you can see metal and arn't afraid to touch the engine including from underneath, get all the engine compartment and trans area. Then drive it a few days, now you can see where the problems are. Thats the only way to see what's goin on. I did it to mine and have been oil free for two weeks. The previous oil and sludge was from 19yrs of never being cleaned. we look purdy now.
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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 11:46 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Don't get the TPS wet.
Now you tell me!
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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 04:58 PM
  #37  
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What you REALLY need to not get wet is your distributor. Make sure to cover that up if you decide to pressure wash your engine (which I would highly recommend doing so that you can get a better idea of where the leaks are coming from)
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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 05:12 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by 1996sportXJ
What you REALLY need to not get wet is your distributor. Make sure to cover that up if you decide to pressure wash your engine (which I would highly recommend doing so that you can get a better idea of where the leaks are coming from)
You can dry out a distributor. The TPS gets ruined.
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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 05:55 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by speed3
take about $5.00 in quarters, maybe a can of engine degreaser and go spend some quality time at the car wash. and keep on cleaning until you can see metal and arn't afraid to touch the engine including from underneath, get all the engine compartment and trans area. Then drive it a few days, now you can see where the problems are. Thats the only way to see what's goin on. I did it to mine and have been oil free for two weeks. The previous oil and sludge was from 19yrs of never being cleaned. we look purdy now.
Lol its definately leaking and not just dirty. But yea im gettin a fel pro rubber valve cover gasket and before i put it on im gonna get it cleaned up real good
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Old Feb 1, 2012 | 07:09 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by bigboy813

Lols wtf 1200-1400.

Ummm valve cover is a piece cake to replace im pretty low on the mechanically inclined list thought I might add that in. When I did it i went to town with paint and new breather cause i broke it,PCV for giggles with new grommets. The rear main seal is a pain in the you know to get to but the seal replacement itself is easy yet a bit tricky.

Then again I have a lift so it may be a little harder for you if you dont.
did you paint the monster logo or is it a sticker?
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Old Feb 2, 2012 | 07:34 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
You can dry out a distributor. The TPS gets ruined.
Not necessarly.
Since mine was on the fritz I figured what have I got to loose. Took a putty knife and a hammer and it split apart at the seams. Cleaned it out, gave it a layer of dielectric grease and epoxied it back together. Been driving a week now with no issues. Granted it might quit tomorrow but for now its fine.

Now I understand the ole saying that necessity if the mother of invention. Actually fixed one of my power lock actuators the same way.
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Old Feb 2, 2012 | 02:50 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by gpeade
Not necessarly.
Since mine was on the fritz I figured what have I got to loose. Took a putty knife and a hammer and it split apart at the seams. Cleaned it out, gave it a layer of dielectric grease and epoxied it back together. Been driving a week now with no issues. Granted it might quit tomorrow but for now its fine.

Now I understand the ole saying that necessity if the mother of invention. Actually fixed one of my power lock actuators the same way.
That's the exception, not the rule. Never a good idea to get a TPS wet in the first place.
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 12:18 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Zach2610
did you paint the monster logo or is it a sticker?
Lol I made my friends g/f cut it out from a printed monster logo, basically made a stencil
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 12:31 AM
  #44  
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somebody probably already said it but 4.0s dont leak from many places. To say the engine needs to be pulled is just them trying to get some extra money from your wallet. The main leaking places are: oil filter adapter, rear main seal, possibly pan gasket, and the valve cover gasket. all are fairly easy to do. If you or a friend is good with cars or engines, i would do it yourself
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 12:41 AM
  #45  
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How many miles are on your jeep? mine has 220k and my main seal just started going. valve cover was at about 170k
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