99WhiteLightning

ok this may be a little long and me be a run on paragraph bare with me folks.

my jeep 99 xj 4.0 is my 5th vehicle the other 4 too long of a story only been driving 4 years so i dont have a whole of mechanical experience except the basic stuff. Last saturday 2-19-11 i stayed after work to change my oil got that al done had the correct fluid yadda yadda yadda... on my way home bout 8-9 miles from work i was holding steady at 55mph when all of a sudden i had a loss in power, sorta like i dropped a driveshaft, but my revs didnt skyrocket. Some how i managed to get it home with many swear words being said half the time on the way home i had to pump the throttle to keep the vehicle from stalling. my bro was following me home he said my left parking light was on an my left side reverse and turn would light up as i braked... meanwhile i was stressed out smoking, got done and went to roll up the P/W it rolled up reallllllllllll slowly... as i pulled into my driveway a trouble code kicked my C/E light on .....grrrrrrr.... so i hooked up the computer and pulled the only code P0705 which i have found out its the nss... i have since replaced the distributor.... and then i noticed the pipe between the muffler and cat was cherry red so i cut off the muffler thinking it was plugged but my jeep is still acting up

could the nss be causing all these problems?

once again sorry its so long i just want to give u all the info so you can help

freegdr

did you ever fix the nns shorted wires can do strange things

playin4funami

plugged cat???? I had a car do the same you are descibing and it was a plugged up cat,lose it and see what happens

99WhiteLightning

bump... any other suggestions

99WhiteLightning

new problem just noticed... once i get the jeep running my driver side rear parking light comes on only when the motor is on what should i check?

DaddyCat

Others have told you how to fix this, it's your nss (neutral safety switch)
read this link tjwalker gave you in an earlier thread.
http://bc4x4.com/tech/2010/jeep-neut...ty-switch-nss/

99WhiteLightning

ok i will pull the nss i just cant believ thats causing my jeep to run like crap

99WhiteLightning

thanks for the "intelligent" information on that nss.... followed all the steps on that god damn link and what do you know go to pry off the nss with the screw driver and it strip the nut and bolt i shoulda just shoved the screw driver up my *** cause thats what i am screwed!!! i have no way to pull it out and dropping the tranny is not a option so thank you for telling me i had to pull it

DaddyCat

Sorry to hear you had problems removing your nss. Not every project goes according to plan. All you can do now is get that old nss out and replace with a JY part (will likely still need cleaning) or buy new.
http://www.quadratec.com/products/55...googlemerchant


BTW many others have used that link to fix their nss and I never saw anyone complain. You should still be able to get the old nss switch out.
I'll not say anything sarcastic to mirror your "thank you".

99WhiteLightning

im sorry about that i had just stripped out the bolt and nut and very angry i got upset/mad pretty quick when fixing something dont go according to plan i work in a jy and so does my cousin together we should be able to get a part between the two yards... i still cant believe the nss is shot tho... my reverse lights works fine and it always starts in p or n. maybe something else went and the ecm is thinking its the nss idk but im bout to put 1000 rounds of 7.62x39 through out the jeep and buy a obd1

tjwalker

Video of that PLEASE!!!!!!!!

jeep bandit

The manifold glowing could be from it running to rich, which I think could make it run bad. If that is the case, I think it's a sensor problem, I just can't remember what one

99WhiteLightning

its gotta be the map sensor then or tps i tested it today.. old man haynes said it should be 4.(something) but mine was peaking about 3.85 to 3.9 volts wide open

i dont think there is a way to test a newer 97+ map sensor except stealer****

tjwalker

Any XJ map sensor can be tested. Do you have a manual? Be absolutely sure that the vacuum hose leading to the map sensor is good and is PULLING vacuum. Without vacuum, you have no map sensor action.

Here is more on the TPS.


The throttle position sensor is connected to the throttle shaft on the throttle body. It sends throttle valve angle information to the PCM. The PCM uses this information to determine how much fuel the engine needs. The TPS is really just a simple potentiometer with one end connected to 5 volts from the PCM and the other to ground. A third wire is connected to the PCM. As you move the accelerator pedal with your foot, the output of the TPS changes. At a closed throttle position, the output of the TPS is low, about a half a volt. As the throttle valve opens, the output increases so that, at wide open throttle, the output voltage should be above 3.9 volts. Testing can be performed with an electrical meter. Analog meter is best. You are looking for a smooth sweep of voltage throughout the entire throttle band. While slowly opening and closing the throttle, take note to the movement of the voltmeter needle. There should be a direct relationship between the needle motion to the motion of the throttle. If at anytime the needle moves abruptly or inconsistently with the movement of the throttle, the TPS is bad

You should have 5 volts going into the TPS. At idle, TPS output voltage must be greater than 200 millivolts. At wide open throttle (WOT), TPS output voltage must be less than 4.8 volts.. The best is to use an analog meter (not digital) to see if the transition from idle to WOT is smooth with no dead spots. With your meter set for volts, put the black probe on a good ground like your negative battery terminal. With the key on, engine not running, test with the red probe of your meter (install a paper clip into the back of the plug of the TPS) to see which wire has the 5 volts. One of the other wires should show .26V (or so). The other wire will be the ground and should show no voltage. Move the throttle and look for smooth meter response up to the 4.49 at WOT.

Perform the test procedure again and wiggle and/or tap on the TPS while you watch the meter. If you notice any flat spots or abrupt changes in the meter readings, replace the TPS.

The TPS is sensitive to heat, moisture and vibration leading to the failure of some units. The sensor is a sealed unit and cannot be repaired only replaced. A TPS may fail gradually leading to a number of symptoms which can include one or more of the following: -

NOTE: The throttle position sensor is also DIRECTLY involved with transmission shifting characteristics! It should be verified early in the troubleshooting process, when a transmission issue is suspected!

 Poor idle control: The TPS is used by the ECU to determine if the throttle is closed and the car should be using the Idle Air Control Valve exclusively for idle control. A fault TPS sensor can confuse the ECU causing the idle to be erratic or "hunting".
 High Idle Speed: The TPS may report faulty values causing the engine idle speed to be increased above normal. This is normally found in conjunction with a slow engine return to idle speed symptom.
 Slow engine return to idle: A failing TPS can report the minimum throttle position values incorrectly which can stop the engine entering idle mode when the throttle is closed. Normally when the throttle is closed the engine fuel injectors will be deactivated until a defined engine RPM speed is reached and the engine brought smoothly to idle speed. When failing a TPS will not report the throttle closed and fueling will continue causing the engine to return to idle very slowly.
 Engine Hesitation on Throttle Application: The TPS is also used by the ECU to determine if the driver has applied the throttle quicker than the Manifold Air Pressure sensor can read. The fueling is adjusted acordingly to cope with the sudden increase in air volume, however a faulty sensor can cause the ECU to ignore this data and the engine will "hesitate" when applying the throttle. In extreme cases with the engine at idle, a sudden application of full throttle can stall the engine.
 Engine Misfire: A fault TPS can report values outside the deined acceptable range causing the ECU to incorrectly fuel the engine. This is noticable as a slight misfire and can trigger the misfire detection software and/or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) light on the dashboard. Extreme cases can cause excessing misfires resulting in one or more cylinders being shut down to prevent engine and catalytic converter damage.

99WhiteLightning

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=<div ...</div> </div>

heres what shes doing as of tonight going to get a TPS and will update you either tonight or tomorrow