Hi Cherokee friends. I am thinking of replacing my dead 00 XJ LTD with a 99 Sport. It has had a single owner (friend) and has ~85k miles. Manual transmission. No lifts or other mods.

It has been maintained & serviced regularly. No major issues. No rust. If you bought it today, what would you plan on doing to it? It will be a daily driver, not off-roader.

And the loaded question, what do you think is a fair price in the Seattle area?

 

Here's what I generally do:

1) Thorough Inspection - Look mechanicals over thoroughly for any problems ...like under the oil fill cap (for headgasket issues, etc). Check spark plug color, how much gunk you can see on the head (through the oil fill or PVC (ccv) hole. Maybe even do a compression and vacuum test. Just to see where things are at. At that mileage you don't really expect to see any problems, but it's a good 'just to see' thing to do.

2) Fluids - This is a no-brainer. Regardless if the owner has changed the fluids, I'd replace them all with the appropriate grades/products. Front/rear diff, Xfer case, coolant, brake (especially brake fluid!), etc. Trans fluid change ...all that. I might even put a little grease between the ends of the leaf springs (where they rub together). Lube hood hinges and latch mechanism, as well as the rear hatch mechanisms and pivot pins. I probably would NOT lube the door hinge pins b/c Chrysler uses a compressed graphite bushing and in my experience lubing them up wears them out prematurely. I lube up bronze bushings in other vehicles, but not the Jeeps (I've worn out and replaced several over the yrs not in just XJs but also ZJ's). Also, make sure the breather tubes are properly installed on the differentials and the ends are open (clean). Dirt can get in and clogg them and as you drive the diff heats up and the pressure can cause fluid to seep out the seals. Not a real common problem but just takes a few seconds to double-check.

3) Brakes - In the process of replacing the brake fluid, I'd run the calipers in/out with a C-clamp at least 4 times each caliper. I always do this when I rotate the tires. It keeps the seals from finding a spot and sticking. I've never had to replace a caliper on any vehicles I've ever owned consequently. Also lube up sliders and file off any rust which may be making the calipers hang up. Replace pads/shoes and Rotors if needed. I always put a dial indicator on new rotors when I replace them and get them to .001" of run-out. That way you get super-smooth brakes. Add anti-seize to the wheel studs (but NOT the wheel holes or lug nuts ...wheel stud *threads* ONLY).

4) Misc - Tighten the front/rear bolts on the intake manifold as these tend to loosen up. Inspect hoses for brittleness and leaks (replace as necessary). Replace the air filter and PVC valve ...or ensure CCV is open (I can't remember what the 99 has, sorry). Replace spark plugs if needed. If the wires are original, give them a good look over, maybe replace. They might still be good though. Inspect the exhaust for leaks and that all hangars are still good. Replace items which appear faulty. Probably would be a good idea to replace radiator hoses if they're original. Especially the Lower radiator hose (which if it blows or leaks slowly, could ruin your engine!). I would back-flush the heater core while you are replacing the coolant. Get the A/C working if it's not.

5) Sensors - If there are sensors which go into the intake manifold as there is mine, remove it and clean the gunk off. I'd remove the IAC valve and clean it and the bore behind it with carb cleaner. Also inspect inside the throttle body for carbon on and under the butterfly and around the lower bore. They commonly get a carbon ring around them. Clean with carb cleaner and a soft brush (no metal instruments!!). Those are common Jeep complaints which cause poor idle. I would replace the O2 sensor if it were mine. They do gradually degrade. After replacement, I'd unhook the battery terminals and hold the + and - together for 30 seconds to drain the computer memory. Speaking of battery cables, ensure the cables have good (clean) connections to the body and motor. It's a common problem they develope poor connections which cause operational issues. How good is the battery?

6) Diffs - I'd probably grab the front drive shaft (when in N) and shake it to feel for tightness. You shouldn't be able to move it at ALL. If the yoke has wear, might as well put it on the list to replace. It'll just get worse. If it's tight, I'd grease the U-joints. If they're not greaseable, I'd probably remove the driveshaft and ...on a bench, I'd remove the caps on the front u-joint and add some like grease. If it's brown, use brown grease ...blond grease if it's blond ...black for black etc. Different greases have soap carrier compounds which can be incompatible with each other so don't just use any ole crap. Then I'd also use whatever means to lube the center ball of the CV joint at the front driveshaft. Nobody ever lubes the ball and they wear out and kill the splines. Some have a zerk, some guys use a needle on a grease gun. This little move could save you hundreds down the road. On the rear driveshaft, if the u-joints feel good, I would still (and I do it to my own vehicles) remove the driveshaft (at least the rear end) and put a dab of 'like' grease on the cups which you can remove. They tend to wear the most anyway.

7) Steering - Inspect for wear. Grease the components as needed. Check ball joints. While you are under there, lube any shift linkages you see (I don't think there are any, but look anyway).

8) Upholstery - Whenever I get a new (used) vehicle, I give it a complete upholstery wash. Wait for a good sunny (dry) day and start early. You don't want to do it on a day when it's going to rain b/c it could get moldy and musty if it doesn't dry out. What I do is work from the top to the bottom and take a hose with a sprayer and spray the seats down (seat backs first) and use a brush with soapy water and agitate it all over (if it's a cloth interior). Then immediately suck the water out with a shop vac and a wide upholstery attachment. Make sure there aren't any burrs on the attachment which could snag the fibers. Then spray lightly with water again and suck the water out (this is the 'rinse' cycle!). Do the same for the seat bottoms ...only perhaps do two washes b/c seat bottoms get SO dirty. You'll be surprised how much dirt will come out. Do the dash and everything, taking care not to get water into places it doesn't belong. Then proceed to the carpet. The drivers side will likely take numerous washes and suctions. When finished, leave it to dry, put a fan in it a night to continue drying. Oh, be sure to unhook the battery so you don't run it down while the doors are open for a long time. Nothing like a nice interior on a newly purchased vehicle.

9) Cosmetics - Don't underestimate cosmetics. Make a list of problems and go out and buy new pieces, especially cosmetic problems. Buy them from the dealer if you can. If the windshield is cracked or badly 'pitted' get it replaced. If certain paint is faded badly get an estimate to repaint. Touch up any paint chips. Make it look nice. The reason is, if it "looks" great, you are FAR more inclined to spend the time and energy to keep it nice going forward.

I'm sure I've left some things off which others can help fill in. There's a lot on the list but you can do them over days, weeks, or even months ...as time allows. Anyways, Good luck!!

 

Wow, that is very thorough Jeepwalker. Thank you so much!!

 

Agree with Jeepwalker on the list. I'd add:

Rust. You say "no rust", but what does that -really- mean. Are we talking about surface rust on the painted exterior or are we talking about no rust where it -really- matters - floor pans, control arm brackets, leaf spring brackets, frame (obviously), etc?
If you look at my 95 by the former (the parts you can see from standing outside), you'd say that my Jeep has a little rust due to the bondo spots on the rockers and on one of the rear quarter panels. However, in truth, there was A LOT of rust - such that every floor pan (front seat, back seat and cargo area) have had to be replaced or seriously repaired. The lower control arm brackets rusted out at one point and had to have new brackets welded in, etc.

Take a really good look at the floors - particularly the passengers side area. (Poke it with a screwdriver - rot is deceptive - it always looks much better than it is.) The heat from the exhaust burns off the undercoating and then the pans rust out. It can happen at any point on the floors, but the passenger's side is usually where it starts.

Take a really good look at the underside of the rear quarter panels (right behind the rear wheels) and make sure the metal is solid. If any holes form at this point, water can get all the way up to the cargo area and accelerate rusting.

That said, 85k original miles is VERY low. The 99 model year is a GREAT year. It was the last year of the distributor, so the engine is compatible with many prior years. It was prior to the 0331 head defect. It was the 3rd year since a major design overhaul, so by that point the kinks were worked out. Finally, and in my opinion the MOST important fact -- the manual is an AX-15 with the external slave. Starting in 00 they went to a (in my opinion, vastly inferior) new transmission model, the NV3550.

If everything is functional, it's been well maintained and the rust is minimal or not present, that XJ is easily worth 4-5k regardless of where you live. I'd see if you can get it for 3500, but I'd feel good paying 4500 or 5k if necessary. I wouldn't pay more than 5 though, it's still a nearly 20 year old vehicle.

 

I'm assuming 4wd, btw. If it's 2wd, don't pay more than 3500.

What I'd do with a low mileage stick shift 99 model year.... I'd drive the heck out of it for the next 5+ years. I wouldn't do a single mod to it except the headlight harness upgrade and a good set of 235/75R15 tires when the original ones wore out.

 

Hahaha Thanks PatHenry!

I haven't heard about the headlight harness upgrade. What's the story with that?

 

It's a simple upgrade that routes the power to the headlights directly from the battery using relays. It's necessary for fancy LED lights, but it improves the stock lights considerably. It's a plug and play upgrade, easy to install. Forum member jhc7899 (I may be off on the exact username.. the guy's name is Jeff) sells a decent one for under $20. Putco is a brand name that gets thrown around a lot as well.

Do a forum search on headlight harness upgrade and you'll find a ton of info about it.

 

Thanks PatHenry!

 

Any time!

 

I just did the headlight wiring upgrade on my XJ and YJ. I used this one from Amazon:
Both have been working fine. I still have the stock headlights and it does make a noticeable difference in the brightness. Install is quick. Hardest part is taking off the front header panel and that is pretty easy.

 

Jeepwalker is right on about the maintenance. It may be a lot of work, but if you go through it now, it will most likely last you a very long time. These jeeps, when well taken care of, will last a real long time. Also, don't be afraid to put some money into it with upgrades, like the headlight harness. Jeeps that are low mileage and good shape are going for a pretty penny. There are a bunch of things that you can do to improve the jeep as you go along. Take some time to plan whatever upgrades you may need / want to do so you dont end up doing things twice.

 

Thanks Red. I am waiting for my friend to decide if he is really selling... It's the best thing I can think to do right now because I don't want a car payment.

 

I agree, but if I were you, I would try to put like $50 bucks a month to the side for those sudden unexpected repairs that come up. Also, before you get rid of your old XJ, maybe take some of the parts off of it that are either newer or compatible (interior, trim, etc. etc.) . Buddy of mine even saved his old wheels to have a spare set. Where we live, we don't have potholes, we have craters that can wreck tires and rims.

 

Good thinking. But At this point I don't think the deal is going to happen.

 

Sorry to hear that. Keep an eye out for other XJ's in your area. Sometimes good ones pop up on craigslist or something. If you have a 2000, and can find another, keep your old 2000 if possible for spare parts.