Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here XJ (84-01)
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Keep snapping Track Bar any solutions

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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 06:43 PM
  #16  
98xj_john's Avatar
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From: Mesa,Az
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
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that has worked fine for me for the last 6months with wheeling. Haven't had any problems. Been thinkin bout making the whole thing tho.
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 06:49 PM
  #17  
EndlessMtnFab's Avatar
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From: Blakeslee, PA
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.7
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Originally Posted by 98xj_john
that has worked fine for me for the last 6months with wheeling. Haven't had any problems. Been thinkin bout making the whole thing tho.


It would be a good idea if you can make a new one from scratch.



a) would allow you to get even better matching angles (track bar and drag link


b) you're not relying on the strength of the OE design with additional stressors


c) add more attaching points for an even stronger setup




It's obvious you have the welding skills between you & pop ..... just think out the design more.
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 06:56 PM
  #18  
98xj_john's Avatar
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From: Mesa,Az
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
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That is boxed in.
Attached Images   
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 07:02 PM
  #19  
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From: Mesa,Az
Year: 1998
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ya this was a quick fix for me that ended up stayin when I have time to measure everything up an make it I will but for now its been fine.
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 08:27 AM
  #20  
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Year: 87
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Originally Posted by 98xj_john
ya this was a quick fix for me that ended up stayin when I have time to measure everything up an make it I will but for now its been fine.
I am concerned that it looks like a grade 5 bolt holding it.
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 10:44 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 98xj_john
Claytonoffroad.com from CT shop is down street frpm my house their **** is sick.
where you get your swaybar quick links
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 04:40 PM
  #22  
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Fixing to make my homebrew drop bracket here soon. Any body made one using ball joint style end, as I just bought it? Also, about the grade 5 question: that should be plenty strong enough and if it breaks its better to have to replace a $1 bolt than try to weld a crack framerail. Always need to incorporate a (cheap) fail point!
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