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Jeep quits/now no fire

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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 07:53 PM
  #1  
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Default Jeep quits/now no fire

Ok, here's for the experts: 1988 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer, 4.0 auto, 4x4, 139k, would quit when it got warm, then start back, now after setting about a year its not getting any fire.....................any ideas?
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 09:17 PM
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anybody? getting fuel....will it jumpstart?
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 05:33 AM
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jump start isn't going to help unless the battery is dead... you getting fuel at the rail? spark at each plug? if no fuel, check the lines for breaks, and replace the pump. if no spark, you're looking at cap, rotor, plugs, wires, coil, crankshaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor, etc...
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 05:34 AM
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Originally Posted by jomps
anybody? getting fuel....will it jumpstart?
Huh? You have 2 accounts?
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 06:32 AM
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For verified no-spark on a 1988, the suspects are (in this order)

1. Crankshaft position sensor
2. Ignition coil
3. Ignition control module (located under the ignition coil)

You must VERIFY that lack of spark is your problem. Knowing that is job #1 for any no-start.
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 07:11 AM
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Not had a lot of time to work on it. It does turn over and it is getting fuel at the rail. Using a test light while turning it there is no fire coming from the coil. I understand drom a previous post that the crank sensor was notorious for going bad......
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 09:36 AM
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does it click at all? one day mine wouldnt start and the battery was fuller charged. i had to put it into N and then it started right up, idk if its the NSS but its worth a try. good luck
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Donnie_K
Huh? You have 2 accounts?
nah i was trying to help him out and see if anybody had input on the issue...
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 11:57 AM
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most likely its going to be the ignition module , when you pull it off most of the time you can take it to any parts house and have them test it, if it is working right then check your crank and camshaft possition sensor, if both of those are good then your pcm/ecm is prob. fried.
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by generalcrawl
most likely its going to be the ignition module , when you pull it off most of the time you can take it to any parts house and have them test it, if it is working right then check your crank and camshaft possition sensor, if both of those are good then your pcm/ecm is prob. fried.
Ignition module?
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 06:47 PM
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Start by TESTING the CPS. Unplug it. Probe the contacts in it. Have someone crank the engine over with your meter set on aC volts. You should see .5 AC volts. Let us know what you find unless you wanna just keep throwing parts at it because someone else says this or that fixed their problem.
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Start by TESTING the CPS. Unplug it. Probe the contacts in it. Have someone crank the engine over with your meter set on aC volts. You should see .5 AC volts. Let us know what you find unless you wanna just keep throwing parts at it because someone else says this or that fixed their problem.
Follow cruiser's advice. He know what's up with RENIX.
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Old Nov 10, 2011 | 05:53 PM
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Ok, after 3 evenings with a flashligt, lyin on the ground hugging a greasey tailpipe and driveshaft i replaced the crankshaft position sensor, tossed a battery on it and after setting over a year it fired right up, hopefully it wont need a tremendous amount to get it back on the road or sell it. Thanks for the input
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by randyj68
Ok, after 3 evenings with a flashligt, lyin on the ground hugging a greasey tailpipe and driveshaft i replaced the crankshaft position sensor, tossed a battery on it and after setting over a year it fired right up, hopefully it wont need a tremendous amount to get it back on the road or sell it. Thanks for the input
How did you get to the uppermost bolt, I got one out, but the other one seems impossible to get to.
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