I am terrible at staying on topic myself in all situations, so I'm used to it. Sorry if I broke any rules.

I got a radiator, a water pump, the valve cover gasket, serpentine belt [just in case--the one in there is less than a year old]. I also got a few thermostat gaskets, in case I mess something up there.

I didn't get a thermostat at the time, because they didn't have any that were clearly designated as 'fail open' at the standard temperature.

I still have to figure out the transmission cooler lines [the part numbers and links provided were helpful], and I'm reading the FSM right now. I've probably got time, though. We're stocked up on groceries, my library books aren't due back for another three weeks, and I'm pretty cool with just sheltering in place until I absolutely have to go outside.

Googling everything is starting to give me nightmares, though. I'm reading about people with 95s that had engine mounts just snap.

 

In that you have transmission leaks, I think the first order of business is to verify the fluid level in your transmission. It takes a relatively level surface to check the ATF level, so locate a shopping center parking lot, or similar, to do this.

Before leaving on this mission, get a small funnel that will fit into your trans dipstick tube. Get a few quarts of DEX III/Mercon trans fluid (not Dex VI fluid). A rag or paper towl.

Drive the Jeep for at least 15 miles to get the trans fluid up to its operating temp. Park the Jeep on a level surface. Place the trans in Park and set the parking brake. While the engine is idling, pull the dipstick and clean it off then reinsert. Check fluid level on both sides of the dipstick. The fluid level should be between the ADD and FULL marks on the dipstick, preferably near the FULL mark. If fluid is needed add the DEX III/Mercon ATF a little at a time, rechecking the level frequently. Try not to over service the ATF.

 

I've already got a funnel--a couple, actually, since I don't want to cross-contaminate anything, and I hope the auto store didn't steer me wrong on the fluid. I will check that, too.

Fifteen miles is pretty much a trip to WalMart, or the VA. I can probably check and make sure the surface we parked on is level when we get there, and check the fluid then.

Hopefully, I won't find out that it's insanely low.

I'll check out the thermostat thread.

 

Good luck

 

RockAuto is fast. Radiator, valve cover gasket, water pump? All showed up today.

...at the same time as my new-new washing machine, so I kinda angered that delivery guy by closing the door on him, because I confused him for the FedEx guy.

Awkward.

And I went FelPro.

For some stupid reason, I was shocked by how big the radiator shipping box was. Of course it's big.

 

Couple things you'll need. 1-2 cans brake clean for cleaning head/ V cover gasket surface. PB Blaster (or simular penatrant, not WD40) for rusted nuts/bolts. Roll of blue shop towels.

If you are sure the trans lines are leaking other than at a fitting, replacement would probably be better. Do them when you do radiator so you won't worry about saving them when removing from rad. IF you don't think you'll have enough time to do it all at one time, start soaking fittings at rad now. Once a day with PB won't hurt.

Unless you are sure you're parking brake works properly, I wouldn't use it. If it doesn't release fully you'll be working on that in a snow bank also.

Good luck, let us know how it goes.

 

Does brake cleaner come in varieties that I should or should not use?

Also, since the water pump and thermostat gaskets are not FelPro, is there a recommended additional sealant to make sure they don't leak? Or is there a recommended additional sealant for all three?

I do have a can of PB Blaster.

I'm also going to need several things of antifreeze, on top of the ATF. And, of course, the hoses.

 

Well as for the thermostat I've been going over all of the threads trying to figure out a heater core problem on mine. Here I what I found.
First the thermostat has to have a "jiggle valve". This is basically an opening in the valve with a piece of metal in it. (Kinda hard to describe, but it looks like the things that hold a shelf on an adjustable book shelf.) This allows air to escape the block when the engine is off. When it is running the valve has pressure on it so it is forced closed.
As for the brand there are some die hard stant fans, but I've been reading hit and miss about those. So I try to avoid them.
The next up is Motorad. There are 3 different available, regular, high flow, and fail safe. The regular one does not have the jiggle valve so it can be ruled out. And I never put a fail safe in my XJ, (tried 2 of them and "failed" open at normal temps.) So the Motorad high flow seems to be a good choice from alot of thread that I read.
The last is just going with a mopar stat. Yes expensive compared to the other ones (about $20) but just for the added security its what I prefer. Now the new Mopar stats are made by Motorad, but holding them side by side there is still a few small differences. When ordering a mopar stat there are two different model numbers, one comes with the gasket and one does not. If you are going the felpro route or have one already you should be good.
Also remember that then installing the thermostat the jiggle valve should be installed in the 12 o clock position.

 

Although the gaskets can be installed dry, a thin smear of sealant (there are many available), will help seal small surface irregularities. Thin smear is enough, more is not better.
Make sure you clean the mating surfaces clean of any old gasket/gunk.


When I tested my 195 Gates and Stants in water warming up, they eventually opened a lot later than the operating temp they should at, and opened not nearly as far as the OEM Mopar stat I bought after that.
Put the Mopar one in, and had very steady temps since. THe one I took out, must have been the original OEM...lasted a good 15 yrs.

 

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Great news. It warmed up enough to go outside and have a look around. Not quite warm enough to get under the Jeep and really follow the transmission cooler lines, but, if I've figured out what and where they are, I may have found at least one of the leaks.

Now to figure out how to post images. Or even just a link to it....

This should work. The picture is fairly large. And yes, everything in there is filthy.

Don't be too hard on me if that's actually something other than a transmission cooler line.

 

It looks about right!
(mine go a different route but thats because they enter the radiator in the other side in the RHD).

 

It took me three days to figure out why there were 'right' and 'left hand drive' parts, and an embarrassingly long time to figure out which I had.

I have severe left/right issues.

If that's the only place it's leaking, what am I looking at replacing?

 

Nice pic.

That is the radiator Upper cooler line. Note that it is a two piece line. If the upper portion is not butchered when being removed you may not need it; however, I think it's the cheapeast one one the bunch. The line from that disconnect backto the trans connector would need to be replaced.

The other line that connects to the lower fitting on the radiator is a quick disconnect and has a hose as well. It is probably shot tool.

Don't cheap out on these lines. When in doubt, replace it.

 

Some one stole your fan ....