coffeechick

But, damn it, I'm gonna LEARN. Because I am not going to pay the eight hundred quoted me the other recommended repairs when I got the brakes replaced [see above, re: no knowledge. Brakes are AWFULLY important, and I didn't want to botch them mid-winter].

My valve cover gasket is leaking, I need a new radiator, my water pump is probably a ticking time bomb [but I hope it holds out long enough to get me to the library on Wednesday, and to my appointment at the VA hospital].

Those are things I've confirmed. They also said that the transmission cooler line is leaking, and...here again, no idea what's going on. Totally new to this. I don't know if there's more than one of those, and, if there is, which one it might be.

I figure I can handle most of this. I can follow clear instructions, and I can look up anything I don't understand. That's the first step to learning. And I've got help, at least.

It's a 95 Jeep Cherokee, 4.0, automatic. And that's pretty much all I know about it, because it's obviously very used.

So, any help? Anything I need, other than parts? Tools I might not have that I should get before tearing the thing apart [I've got a decent socket wrench set, and a few other things]. And can anyone help me out with that whole transmission cooler line thing? I'd really appreciate it.

I hope this is the right forum. I'm really, really new here.

caged

those are pretty simple and straight forward repairs.

water pump, usually around 30 bux, a few bolts once the fan and serp belt is removed. use blue RTV to seal the gasket. a trick i used to use is trace the water pump on a piece of cardboard and poke the bolts in the corresponding locations on the cardboard, so installation is easier.

radiator, again, very simple, do that when you pull the water pump. just a few bolts holding the rad support along the top where the hood latch is.

as for the trans cooler lines, they are probably leaking at the connectors, simply cut and use a plastic barbed hose splicer and a couple hose clamps.
other than loosing a bit of trans fluid, it's a pretty easy, yet kinda messy job.

get dirty and have fun with it.

cm75

Welcome to the wonderful world of owning a used jeep! But seriously, if you YouTube a lot of the repairs, it makes it ALOT easier to fix stuff. Usually some people learn how to fix things by watching someone else do the work, like me, but if you spend some time doing some research on the repairs, like on this site,you can do it yourself. Not only will you save a lot of money doing it yourself, but you can take pride knowing you did it yourself. Just my 2 cents...

freegdr

Irish Crème or French Vanilla ...Welcome to the madness..

coffeechick

Caged: if I'm replacing the radiator, will that have anything to do with the transmission cooler lines? And where would I find the things you mentioned? The barbed hose splicer, I mean. I'm guessing hose clamps are those things I see everywhere under the hood--round, metallic, little screw for tightening them.

Am I going to need something special to cut the lines?

I certainly don't mind getting crud on my hands. I don't even mind skinning a few knuckles or getting cut. My parents did not raise a princess...or even much of a lady.

And the satisfaction of 'I made this work' is a big thing for me. I think I really need that right now.

I do have a Haynes manual, I just haven't had a lot of time to read through it yet. And I know they're not as good as the factory service manuals, but I might be able to get by with the Haynes and the internet. And you guys, since you all seem to know quite a bit.

...yeah. I seriously have very little idea what's going on under that hood. I've had a few peeks, but it's been bitter cold, I've been busy, and, while I've done a thermostat and a water pump before, it was on a totally different car.

I didn't even know transmissions HAD cooler lines. Automatic transmissions are worrisome things, and I do not want to hurt it in any way.

Roler

I will post a link to the fsm...everything you need is in there...also for the future. Then,.with any questions, come here...the right spirit gets you far ;-)

freegdr

You gonna need special tools for the lines to be removed. Good thing is there not expensive and might be able to rent them from Autozone other then that its all pretty much 10mm 8mm 12mm 15mm flat head screw driver some swearing and youll get it done.

freegdr

This will help also just ask questions about the videos b4 doing the repair https://www.google.com/#q=how+to+rep...rokee+radiator,

coffeechick

Okay. Any recommendations for the valve cover gasket? I've seen a lot of people say 'FelPro', but I've also heard from one or two sources that they're a big name for no good reason, and some rubber/cork type thing would be fine.

I'm probably going to order my parts through RockAuto.

XJriot

FelPro.

There's a reason why they're a "big name" and it isnt for no good reason. Go hit your sources across the face with a trout!

coffeechick

I was seriously considering going with it anyway, because of how much I've read about over-tightening being a bad thing, and I thought maybe having built-in limitations might be a good idea.

And yay. I think I have all those tools, except for the special ones for the cooler lines.

I think I've also got the swearing part down.

I'm glad all this might be easy, and relatively cheap, because I completely failed to keep my washing machine running, and replacing that hurt.

XJriot

All you need to remove the cooler lines from the radiator is 2 wrenches. No special tools required.

While the radiator is out you can do the water pump, new serp belt and new thermostat & gasket. You can also flush your system so its nice and clean for all your shiny new parts.

caged

yup, just cut the trans cooler lines with a knife.
those plastic couplers are cheap and available anywhere like tractor supply to autozone. they look like this.



valve cover gasket, again, a template to hold the bolts and clean the cruddy oil and old gasket as good as you can, then do it a little better. lol you don't want it to leak again once the new gasket is on. and tighten finger tight in a star pattern from middle to end a little at a time till about 12 lb/f i believe is the torque. i've used a shop vac it keep the crud from falling into the head once the cover is off. you can also clean the inside of the valve cover if you want.

rgr4475

Youtube and the search function on this site are your friends. Good luck.

Roler

EDIT: Have been informed that posting the link 'in public' is not allowed. However, via PM is allowed. So, PM me and I will be able to send you the link.