Hunter,

May I suggest, in addition to getting the Factory Service Manual, that you get a digital camera and an account with one of the free photo hosting websites, like Photobucket or Flickr. It comes in real handy when asking questions on the Forum to add a photo of the area of concern. Your leaking transmission cooler lines for example.

VA? Are you a former GI?

Me: Vietnam, class of '66-'67. USAF

 

post #15 has been edit.

 

I think I managed to get it. Sorry, excruciatingly long day delivering tires--fortunately, it was my last day, so my knees can recover.

I mention that partly because that's why I hadn't replied to say I got it, and partly because, having gotten it, I saw a printout that looked like it was from another manual for another car at one of the stops. So I guess this is what they use. Neat.

And CCKen: I've got a digital camera, and my phone has a camera. And I have my own server space.

And yes. I'm a former GI. Nothing so distinguished as Viet Nam. Just an Active Duty Army medic who never left US soil, but still managed to have what the kids these days might call a 'bad time'. '98-'99.

Kinda shameful, but I'm working on getting over that, at least.

 

There is no shame in serving our country, no matter the details. It is ALWAYS honorable.

 

Our military is the best in the world and have all my respect. God Bless our troops!!!!

 

Medics are one of those mos's that is always very honorable no matter where your boots land. Alot of training and skills. Not like us MP's who just seem to **** everyone off. (and still manage to see a plate light out at 100 meters.)lol
So thank you.
On to the Jeep. Water pump is fairly simple, while I won't tell you how to do it. (there is a write up I'm looking for) I will send some advice. Anyone please chime in if I make a mistake.
There are a few things that should be done along with the water pump.
First is the bypass tube or water inlet tube. This is the metal tube that comes off the water pump and wraps up around your valve cover.
I personally have never had one come off the the water pump easily. With out access to a torch it is usually easier just to replace it. This tube is the return line from your heater core to the water pump.
The next thing is the thermostat, it is usually a good idea to replace both at once. I personally prefer Mopar stats but I am hearing good things about Motorad.
When trying to take the pulley off of the water pump (it will go on the new one.) there are a few ways to go about it.
First you can use 2 wrenches (or a wrench and a socket), one to hold the pulley in place and the other to get the bolts out. The next way is to use large oil filter wrench. And the last is just to use a regular belt.
It may take some time to get it but they will come off.
Flush everything while the coolant is out, and flush it separately. If your doing both the radiator and the water pump at the same time you just have to flush the engine and the heater core. If you have to do the water pump before the radiator, flush the radiator when you do the pump. There are a few reasons for this. First you don't want the new part to get gummed up with all of the old stuff that was inside of the cooling system. Also if the system was neglected like mine it make a take a few times to really get it clean.
Listen I don't mean to insult you by breaking it down. These are just things I have learned in the past and still sometimes forget when I am in a hurry. If I think of anything else I will post it. Start looking around the forum for common problems and try to understand them before they happen. I know the older ones have the heater control valve which is known to cause issues and is a pretty easy fix. Might be a good thing to look up before buying heater hoses. Good luck

 

I appreciate the breakdown, actually. I wouldn't have learned about the water inlet thing if someone hadn't told me [assuming this is something common to all Cherokees, and not just earlier or later models than mine.

I also don't know if I should just go ahead and replace the hoses while I'm doing all this. I don't know how well-maintained it was before the previous owner.

I think I have plenty of time to research all of this before I actually get to do it. I woke up this morning to my phone telling me that it was -11, and that my package had been delayed due to inclement weather. And it's not going to get any better for about a week.

I don't want to do ANY flushing of anything until I'm sure that I'm not just standing there making modern art with ice.

As for MPs, I never had any run-ins with you guys, but I think everyone wishes law enforcement would just open up and admit that part of the training involves developing a near-psychic ability to predict when the generally unseen lights are going to go out. It would save us all a lot of trouble.

 

Before changing cooler lines, study the existing installations from the radiator to the transmission so that you know the routing of the tubes when the new ones are installed. Note that there is a small notch in the top of the steering box for the lower line hose to nest in.

You'll need a quick disconnect tool to unlatch and remove the radiator lower tube assembly. I use an Autocraft quick disconnect tool from Advance Auo Parts. It's for a 3/8" tube.

You'll need to apply penetrating oil to the inside of the radiator lower quick disconnect for a few days to help free up the retainer clip inside, but even so, it may be a PITA to get it disconnected. I had to tap the disconnect tool into the quick diconnect with a small hammer then grab the outer shell of the quick disconnect fitting with vice grips, then twist the fitting while tapping on the vice grips with a hammer.

As for the cooler line connectors on the transmission, they're a bit hard to get at from under the Heep. I used a 7/8" open end wrench to remove and reinstall them.

Removing the cooler lines from the connectors at the transmission can be a PITA as well. They have a different disconnect than the other disconnects. You have to pinch the white tabs (see pic of connector)between your fingers while pulling back on the tube. It would be wise to use penetrating oil on these as well. I couldn't get one of the tubes out of the connector so i just removed the connector with the tube attached.

Before removing the tubes from the connectors on the transmission, and/or removing the connectors, place a drain pan under the Heep below the connectors. You will get lots of tranny fluid out of these fittings. While you are at this, drain the transmission oil pan into the drain pan as well. You will get nearly 6 quarts of tanny fluid out of the tranny, which leaves around 2 quarts remaining in the torque converter and trans.

When replenishing the drained fluid with new fluid, measure the amount removed (marked up milk jugs) and add back that amount through the trans dipstick tube. You'll need to verify the fluid level when you finish. Just don't overfill the trans fluid.

Use Dexron III/Mercon Automatic Transmission Fluid. Valvoline DEX/Merc is good. Advance auto parts has it under their private label as DEX III/M.

Cooler line connectors:



Disconnect Tool:

 

"And yes. I'm a former GI. Nothing so distinguished as Viet Nam. Just an Active Duty Army medic who never left US soil, but still managed to have what the kids these days might call a 'bad time'. '98-'99.

Kinda shameful, but I'm working on getting over that, at least."

Nothing "shameful" with that at all !! From one vet to another, thank you for your service.

 

"I don't know what I'm doing" That's how I start every Jeep project! edit: Welcome fellow Denver-ite!

 

The transmission cooler line thing is starting to worry me now, mostly because automatic transmission = worst thing ever to do something bad to.

And it just occurred to me to ask: does it matter that I don't have a single flat area to work in? My driveway is a slight incline.

 

As long as trannys filled to proper level your good there .Can you spot a wet spot on parking area from it ? Might not need to raise xj if its near radiator ?

 

Can't really tell what's what, what with the coolant [which is apparently just seeping from everywhere], the oil from the valve cover gasket issue [which I hope is the ONLY oil issue], and...yeah, I just can't tell.

I mostly know that there's a fairly slow loss of transmission fluid because the previous owner is our roommate.

Yeah. I knew there was stuff wrong, but I still took the Jeep. Because it runs.

 

Sent you a pm, since it's not allowed to post the link 'in public view' due to copyright issues.... Am positive it will aid in things now and the future

 

You're not really serving your country, that's just what they want you to think.

You're serving a small group of self serving, tyrannical, power hungry psychopaths hell bent on controlling everything in the world.

They even place the words New World Order on our money in Latin.