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How-To: Differential oil change/Replace fuel filter

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Old 02-23-2009, 12:44 PM
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Default How-To: Differential oil change/Replace fuel filter

1. Lift the car for easy access
2. Undo all bolts on the differential case
3. The gasket/RTV silicone that was previously used should hold the cover on without the bolts so don't worry.
4. Use a screwdrive to pry the bottom of the cover off with an oil pan directly underneath.
5. Drain all oil out and let it drip until it's pretty much done.
6. Use brake cleaner to clean all the sludge out from inside and the inside of the cover.
7. Allow brake cleaner to evaporate (use no residue cleaner).
8. Clean off all the old RTV silicone with a scraper and then make a bead of RTV on the cover and mate it to the differential and hand tighten all the bolts
9. I allowed 20 minutes for the RTV silicone to seal up and then I added 80w-90 gear oil from LucasOil.
10. **If you have limited slip, use an oil with an additive or make sure you get the limited slip additive.
11. I allowed an hour for the RTV to set up before torquing down all the bolts.
12. Drink beer with friends and revel in your mechanical prowess which until now consisted of putting gasoline in a fuel tank which magically made the car run. (just kidding).

HOW TO CHANGE YOUR FUEL FILTER

1. It would have been easier in retrospect if I had removed the rear left wheel.
2. lift the car and look at the filter
3. From here, it should look self explanatory.
4. there's an 'in' hose and 'out' hose. Unbolt the clamp holding the filter under the car body and then untighten the clamps holding the rubber parts of the fuel line that go to the fuel filter.
5. Have an oil pan ready. The fuel line is under pressure from the fuel pump (fuel injected models). As soon as you pull off one side of the hose (I started with the 'out' line thinking I didn't want to send fuel backwards), a bunch of fuel is going to flow out of the line. Let it drain in the pan.
6. Pull off the 'in' line of the fuel filter.
7. attach lines to each respective end of the new fuel filter. (there should be at least one side labeled 'in' or 'out'.
8. tighten hose clamps on each end.
9. bolt the filter back up on the body.
10. Start the car...it probably will take a few tries as you need to pump fuel through the fuel lines back to the engine. Mine took 3 tries, then it started and idled rough for about 10 seconds and then began purring again all satisfied.
11. Drink beer with buddies pretending you knew beforehand what you were doing.
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Last edited by HeepSpeed; 02-24-2009 at 05:32 PM.
Old 02-23-2009, 02:22 PM
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when i did mine, i undid all but the top most bolt, i just loosened it and left it in. that way all the fluid would spill out and not just come flyin out all at once. just to try and avoid a mess haha. i gave the cover a couple whacks with a rubber mallet to loosen it up, just be careful if you use a screwdriver. also, don't forget to scrape all the old RTV off both surfaces, i used a razor blade. another useful tool is also one of those scrapers they use for inspection stickers.

it was a lot harder to get the cover off my 30 b/c apparently the last person who serviced it used an entire tube of RTV on it. fail

Last edited by MasterShakeXJ; 02-23-2009 at 02:24 PM.
Old 02-23-2009, 03:12 PM
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Yea, I couldn't get my front off either. The nuts were on too tight. I'm going to take it in and ask them to see if they can loosen it or maybe just have them do it all with my oil. Then just pay for 20-30mins of labor. Lame, but at least it'll be done and easier next time.
Old 02-23-2009, 03:17 PM
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RTV sucks ****.

I used a Lubelocker gasket last time.

NO more RTV for me!

Old 02-23-2009, 03:35 PM
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nice write up heepspeed don't forget to change your oil and filter to
Old 02-23-2009, 03:54 PM
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Thanks! The oil was changed only 4,000 miles ago. Still left to do is:

1. Front differential.
2. Transfer case (which I think needs a gasket anyways) oil.

I've gone through two radiators with the car, so that part is fine.
I've put in a new power steering pump as well.
I bled the brakes while doing the rear diff and fuel filter.
And finally the transmission had a flush about 6,000 miles ago.

I'll probably do the coolant flush in spring before camping season starts and probably do the same with the power steering. I may just change all the rest of the fluids in spring anyways just to feel ready going into season
Old 02-23-2009, 04:20 PM
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try a breaker bar on the front cover.
Old 02-23-2009, 05:20 PM
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What's a breaker bar?
Old 02-23-2009, 05:42 PM
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a bar (non ratcheting) you use with a socket wrench to free stuck bolts. available at any local hardware store. it's a good tool to have around.
Old 02-23-2009, 06:22 PM
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or just slip a pole on the end of your ratchet
Old 02-24-2009, 02:03 PM
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Soak 'em with PB blaster (or something like it) first.

Otherwise you'll be finding out the correct way to use an "easy out".
Old 02-24-2009, 02:54 PM
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Yea, I think one of them might have done that...it slipped and then it didn't seem to want to stick in the socket...LAME. aye carumba.
Old 02-24-2009, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by HeepSpeed
Yea, I think one of them might have done that...it slipped and then it didn't seem to want to stick in the socket...LAME. aye carumba.
make sure you use a 6 point socket when removing these if you use 12 point it wont hold as well and just use some pipe over the wrench as a helper like 2010 said
Old 02-24-2009, 05:42 PM
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yea, it felt like it gave really easily, I'll have to check the socket...strange that it did it with only 2 of the bolts though...
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