HO head on a Renix block?
07-24-2013, 05:05 PM
#1
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Wilmington,NC
Posts: 3,004
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
HO head on a Renix block?
Can I wanna put the HO head on my Renix block to do me until money permits me to put the HO block into my XJ. I need a motor but funds are short so I need to make what I have work for at least 6months so I can save up and do it right. So will this work for now and what gaskets do I use HO or Renix?
07-24-2013, 05:30 PM
#3
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Wilmington,NC
Posts: 3,004
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Had a mechanic at work look at it and he said its most likely a bent valve. If its not a valve idk what else it might be (so in other words its a J.E.E.P. so Im gonna throw stuff at it and empty every pocket till I fix it lol) So Im pulling the head friday after work and checking to see if its bad or not for sure. Gonna do plugs and wires while Im at it.
07-24-2013, 09:04 PM
#4
::CF Moderator::
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
Posts: 43,875
Received 1,526 Likes
on
1,238 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Use the HO head with a Renix intake/exhaust gasket.
07-25-2013, 07:39 PM
#7
::CF Moderator::
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
Posts: 43,875
Received 1,526 Likes
on
1,238 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Verify first. Bent valve without even seeing it with the head off? I'm not impressed.
Trending Topics
07-25-2013, 08:48 PM
#8
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Wilmington,NC
Posts: 3,004
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Im not 100% sure its a bent valve yet I need to take the head off but itll need to wait till this weekend. So Im preparing for what it most likely is. But what else will cause it to run like it is after sucking water thru the motor? Iv never dealt with anything like this before so Im not sure what to do man. I know a lil about motors but not enough to figure out whats wrong. I dont believe its a blown head gasket not loss of coolant and no coolant in the oil. Plugs where dry when I pulled them out. If I can get a video of it running (start up reving and dropping it in gear) Ill post it. Maybe that will help alot in figuring out whats wrong.
07-25-2013, 09:32 PM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 541
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1998 and 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.7
Im not 100% sure its a bent valve yet I need to take the head off but itll need to wait till this weekend. So Im preparing for what it most likely is. But what else will cause it to run like it is after sucking water thru the motor? Iv never dealt with anything like this before so Im not sure what to do man. I know a lil about motors but not enough to figure out whats wrong. I dont believe its a blown head gasket not loss of coolant and no coolant in the oil. Plugs where dry when I pulled them out. If I can get a video of it running (start up reving and dropping it in gear) Ill post it. Maybe that will help alot in figuring out whats wrong.
As for Ho block, I never heard anyone call it that but they only have a few differences from the renix block. They don't have a knock sensor a the PCM temp sensor is on the head instead of the block and they have a mounting point for the ignition coil. The cam is a little different too. Same dimentions and a few other minor things
Last edited by karl4x4; 07-25-2013 at 10:59 PM. Reason: meant push rods, not connecting rods
07-25-2013, 10:19 PM
#10
::CF Moderator::
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
Posts: 43,875
Received 1,526 Likes
on
1,238 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Again without looking at engine, it's hard to say but I've seen more bent connecting rods than valves. So without taking the head off, you could check those easily but before you remove your rockers, rotate the engine aat least 2 rotations and check to see if any of them comes loose when valves are closed.
As for Ho block, I never heard anyone call it that but they only have a few differences from the renix block. They don't have a knock sensor a the PCM temp sensor is on the head instead of the block and they have a mounting point for the ignition coil. The cam is a little different too. Same dimentions and a few other minor things
As for Ho block, I never heard anyone call it that but they only have a few differences from the renix block. They don't have a knock sensor a the PCM temp sensor is on the head instead of the block and they have a mounting point for the ignition coil. The cam is a little different too. Same dimentions and a few other minor things
07-25-2013, 10:59 PM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 541
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1998 and 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.7
a bent anything, Connecting rod, push rod, rocker could cause that problem
I actually meant you can check your push rods without taking the head off. not the connecting rods. oups.
As far as the connecting rod, a bent would most likely be detected (without taking them off) with the head off. The pistons would most likely not go as high when at top dead center.
I actually meant you can check your push rods without taking the head off. not the connecting rods. oups.
As far as the connecting rod, a bent would most likely be detected (without taking them off) with the head off. The pistons would most likely not go as high when at top dead center.
07-26-2013, 06:52 PM
#13
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Wilmington,NC
Posts: 3,004
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Just an update XJ runs better now I can actually stomp the gas from a stop and have no stalling issues. Swap my CAI back on and that made a huge difference. Still doesnt like to idle right on start up and havent tried just putting it in gear on first start up yet. But shes doing alot better still has a slight miss but not as bad as it was before. So Im thinking plug wires are in order but will find out this weekend doing a compression check to verify if there is an internal issue. Talked to the guy at work that looked at the Jeep and he said he didnt do a compression check on it. He used a piece of paper held up to the exhaust and said it sucked it in but when I did his test it blew to paper outta my hands so not sure if his test is the best one to rely on lol.
07-26-2013, 07:08 PM
#14
::CF Moderator::
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
Posts: 43,875
Received 1,526 Likes
on
1,238 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Plugs, wires, cap and rotor every 30,000 miles. when was it all done last?
Wouldn't hurt to do this:
I suggest unplugging EVERY electrical connection in the engine bay you can find, whether engine related or not, and spraying it out with a good electronics cleaner, visually inspecting the terminals making sure they haven’t retracted into the plastic holder, and then plugging it back together. There’s a critical 10-pin connector for the front lighting system located in front of the air cleaner and behind the left headlight assembly. Don’t miss that one. Also be sure that the connectors to the ballast resistor mounted near the air cleaner housing are clean and tight.
ALL of the relays should be removed, the terminals wire-brushed until shiny, and the receptacles sprayed out with contact cleaner. Then plug them back in. I do this on every Renix Jeep I purchase or work on for someone else.
Revised 07/23/2012
Wouldn't hurt to do this:
I suggest unplugging EVERY electrical connection in the engine bay you can find, whether engine related or not, and spraying it out with a good electronics cleaner, visually inspecting the terminals making sure they haven’t retracted into the plastic holder, and then plugging it back together. There’s a critical 10-pin connector for the front lighting system located in front of the air cleaner and behind the left headlight assembly. Don’t miss that one. Also be sure that the connectors to the ballast resistor mounted near the air cleaner housing are clean and tight.
ALL of the relays should be removed, the terminals wire-brushed until shiny, and the receptacles sprayed out with contact cleaner. Then plug them back in. I do this on every Renix Jeep I purchase or work on for someone else.
Revised 07/23/2012
07-26-2013, 07:15 PM
#15
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Wilmington,NC
Posts: 3,004
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Plugs, wires, cap and rotor every 30,000 miles. when was it all done last?
Wouldn't hurt to do this:
I suggest unplugging EVERY electrical connection in the engine bay you can find, whether engine related or not, and spraying it out with a good electronics cleaner, visually inspecting the terminals making sure they haven’t retracted into the plastic holder, and then plugging it back together. There’s a critical 10-pin connector for the front lighting system located in front of the air cleaner and behind the left headlight assembly. Don’t miss that one. Also be sure that the connectors to the ballast resistor mounted near the air cleaner housing are clean and tight.
ALL of the relays should be removed, the terminals wire-brushed until shiny, and the receptacles sprayed out with contact cleaner. Then plug them back in. I do this on every Renix Jeep I purchase or work on for someone else.
Revised 07/23/2012
Wouldn't hurt to do this:
I suggest unplugging EVERY electrical connection in the engine bay you can find, whether engine related or not, and spraying it out with a good electronics cleaner, visually inspecting the terminals making sure they haven’t retracted into the plastic holder, and then plugging it back together. There’s a critical 10-pin connector for the front lighting system located in front of the air cleaner and behind the left headlight assembly. Don’t miss that one. Also be sure that the connectors to the ballast resistor mounted near the air cleaner housing are clean and tight.
ALL of the relays should be removed, the terminals wire-brushed until shiny, and the receptacles sprayed out with contact cleaner. Then plug them back in. I do this on every Renix Jeep I purchase or work on for someone else.
Revised 07/23/2012