HELP, runs on "Start" not on "Run"!
Anybody, please help, need my jeep for the 4th! 89 stock 4.0/Auto XJ.
In the past I have changed the crankshaft position sensor, the fuel pump/filter, tune up etc. The XJ will run if I turn the ignition to the start position and as long as I manualy hold it there-engaging the starter, she will run and rev up. As soon as I release the key to the "run" position she dies. If I hold it in start and try to put it in gear-it dies.
Any helpwould beappreciated- everything else is stock...200+ miles.
Dave
In the past I have changed the crankshaft position sensor, the fuel pump/filter, tune up etc. The XJ will run if I turn the ignition to the start position and as long as I manualy hold it there-engaging the starter, she will run and rev up. As soon as I release the key to the "run" position she dies. If I hold it in start and try to put it in gear-it dies.
Any helpwould beappreciated- everything else is stock...200+ miles.

Dave
So, your saying you think I need to remove the ignition swith from the colume and replace it with a new one and key?, would you recommend I get another complete column from a wrecking yard (Pick and Pull) etc?
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 24
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Swap the second and fourth relays and check the blades & sockets. If your AC fails and your Jeep works, great!, if not, no harm done!
Do make sure power is going to the front of the ceramic resistor there by the air box, and going out the rear to the pump.
There's Renix stuff in my sig, below...
Do make sure power is going to the front of the ceramic resistor there by the air box, and going out the rear to the pump.
There's Renix stuff in my sig, below...
CF Veteran



Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 18,786
Likes: 14
From: CT.
Year: 88
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0 HO
Originally Posted by DFlintstone
Swap the second and fourth relays and check the blades & sockets. If your AC fails and your Jeep works, great!, if not, no harm done!
Do make sure power is going to the front of the ceramic resistor there by the air box, and going out the rear to the pump.
There's Renix stuff in my sig, below...
Do make sure power is going to the front of the ceramic resistor there by the air box, and going out the rear to the pump.
There's Renix stuff in my sig, below...
Are you in the right thread? Lol
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CF Veteran




Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 5,841
Likes: 117
From: In the middle of Minnesota!
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
By design, the ballast resistor is out of circuit when the key is in the full "START" position. So if the ballast resistor (white ceramic somewhere on a fenderwell) is bad, the fuel pump will work and supply fuel in the START position and the engine will run, but as soon as you let off on the key and it goes back to the RUN position, fuel will be cut off and the engine will die.
I'd jumper the ballast resistor to rule it in or out. You can safely do this; later models don't even have them; they are there only to reduce noise on the fuel pump circuit.
If it is still symptomatic after jumpering the ballast resistor, then I would next suspect the ignition switch.
I'd jumper the ballast resistor to rule it in or out. You can safely do this; later models don't even have them; they are there only to reduce noise on the fuel pump circuit.
If it is still symptomatic after jumpering the ballast resistor, then I would next suspect the ignition switch.
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,579
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
By design, the ballast resistor is out of circuit when the key is in the full "START" position. So if the ballast resistor (white ceramic somewhere on a fenderwell) is bad, the fuel pump will work and supply fuel in the START position and the engine will run, but as soon as you let off on the key and it goes back to the RUN position, fuel will be cut off and the engine will die.
I'd jumper the ballast resistor to rule it in or out. You can safely do this; later models don't even have them; they are there only to reduce noise on the fuel pump circuit.
If it is still symptomatic after jumpering the ballast resistor, then I would next suspect the ignition switch.
I'd jumper the ballast resistor to rule it in or out. You can safely do this; later models don't even have them; they are there only to reduce noise on the fuel pump circuit.
If it is still symptomatic after jumpering the ballast resistor, then I would next suspect the ignition switch.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 24
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Hey Dan. Just that cleaning the relay blades and sockets is so easy and something to do anyway, and the second is fuel. Swapping that and the AC just takes a sec, and knowing the pump relay is cool...is cool!
YEAH, you guys are allright!!! I switched the 2 and 4 relay and she started right up!! Now I can take my kids to the lake for the 4th!!! Right on, Now Ill just replace the relays and Im good. THANK YOU SO MUCH>>>>
CF Veteran



Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 18,786
Likes: 14
From: CT.
Year: 88
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0 HO
Originally Posted by DFlintstone
Hey Dan. Just that cleaning the relay blades and sockets is so easy and something to do anyway, and the second is fuel. Swapping that and the AC just takes a sec, and knowing the pump relay is cool...is cool! 






....If your AC still works, it might have just been a connection. I'd still watch it....this might not be over...