No, my oil pressure is never at zero, unless I turn it off.
I don't hold it WOT the entire time.

 

Sometimes when you've wandered wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy down the path it pays to return to square one and start over following a map instead of wandering.

Do you have a factory service manual? GET ONE. The time / energy / MONEY you've spent so far just for this thread could have been directed time / energy / money needed to repair your Jeep! Can't afford a manual? Budget's tight? Is it more expensive than throwing parts at the Jeep until something sticks? Instead, throw a manual down on the bench & go from there!

Really, really can't afford a manual? - then download & print out Cruiser54's list as mentioned earlier in the thread. His list is a top priority if ya don't have a manual: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f23/te...itings-136452/

My Renix Sensor Diagnostics page: http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...iagnostics.htm

Seriously - symptoms & causes aren't always the same thing... Flooding? maybe not. Maybe it's just not igniting the proper amount of gas because the ECU can't read engine timing.

Here's one stupid thing that kills a RENIX motor and is easily cracked / broken when working under the hood... is your ballast resistor good?

You mentioned the CPS but what about the CKS? Both perform the same basic function but the ECU relies on both - one on the bellhousing (CKS) and one in the "distributor" housing (CPS).

Having spark doesn't matter if there are other issues in the sensor network... which is why ya have to pull out the manual, grab a test meter and start at the beginning.

Holding WOT on the RENIX just opens the throttle & while that might help clear some excess fuel didn't cause the flooding. What about starting fluid? Does it start right up with that?

Not trying to be a smart *** - seriously. Just saying: asking us to guess from here won't help... you have to do the grunt work on your end.

 

When I mention the CPS, I'm talking about the crankshaft position sensor, not the camshaft position sensor. Just to clear that up. And I've been trying to do the grunt work, but I've been working 11 8 hour days in a row. Just been trying to bounce ideas off of y'all with the information I do have.

 

Well stated.

 

So you ARE the real Lunghd! My hat's off to you sir, for compileing a supper list, info and photos ect.

I did link mat to your sensor diagnostics to do some MAP checks. Btw, Renix will run fine without the Cam sensor. I gather it just helps the ECU figure out say, 1 from six a little quicker. Much thanks for your work! Don

And...feel free to use any pics/info you find in my signature.

 

Because it's not a cam sensor......

 

... and not a distributor! (Which you know but took me eons to figure out...) Just a convenient way of routing spark prior to removing the distributor-thing altogether.)

Cruiser54 - your list & info is great! I refer to it all the time. It's a 'poor mans FSM'.

 

Thanks - glad the info has helped!

I still drop in & moderate on JeepsUnlimited but it's more of a reference library now (at least for XJ's..). Not much activity there. CherokeeForum has far more active members.

 

Know that feeling & what it's like to be pissed off trying to figure it out. Seriously - as someone else has mentioned it is likely an electrical issue but just for fun, check the fuel system.

Have you done a fuel pressure leak down test? (AutismZone, Advance etc may have a fuel pressure gauge in their 'rental program'. Usually free rental - just a refundable deposit.)

Before you even turn the key (SERIOUSLY - don't even put the key in the ignition yet)... pop the hood, pull the neck off of the throttle body & sniff for gas fumes at throttle body and exhaust.
No fumes? Now put the key in and DO NOT START OR TRY TO START... but turn key to 'Run' position. Repeat the sniff test.
Still no fumes? Crank it a few times withOUT touching the gas and hopefully without starting the engine.
Still no fumes? Crank it without going crazy with the gas pedal. Maybe a little gentle pressure that would give you a fast idle if it were running.... You shouldn't have to touch the gas pedal at all, really. ** Has anyone tampered with the idle set screw on the throttle body stop? (A no-no... but people do it.)
Final sniff test... fumes???

After the sniff test... try some starting fluid. Does it fire up / start with that? (If everything else is ok - it should fire right up even if you're out of gas.)

Does the engine keep running after that initial squirt of starting fluid or does it die? If it does NOT fire up and run with starting fluid you know the issue likely lies with the timing or sensor functions. If it fires up but then dies check your ballast resistor (you can bypass it) and if that is ok check your fuel pressure... again. Check the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator too.

 

Your site was a huge inspiration for me in the early days.......Got me doing the Tips.

I should do a site. I have the name already. Salad got it for me.

 

Spark plug gaps are fine. All plugs have spark. I'm getting fuel. Shouldn't it start if my compression is fine?

 

Maybe you should see what it does with starting fluid?

 

Have you verified the injectors are firing?

 

Yes, I took the injectors out of the head and cranked it. They all sprayed.

 

If it was one of my Jeeps, I would be putting in a new Cap and Rotor, New Champion Coppers, New plug Wires and a NEW CPS. If I was sure all the ignition and fuel delivery was correct, then I would check compression with a gauge but unless I've found over the years that I could still get a engine to start with pretty lousy compression in a few cylinders. Ridiculously long crank times like your video shows are the symptom of either NO SPARK(check coil, plugs, wires, coil, ICM, Cap, Rotor), NO FUEL (check fuel pump, fuel filter, bad injectors), BAD SENSOR INFO (TPS, CPS, CKS, MAP, GROUNDS).


I can't remember ever having a NO START condition on any vehicle that wasn't related to the above. If it starts right up with ether (starter fluid) sprayed down the throttle body, you can rule out (or rule in) a few of the items above. It is good advice from DFlintstone.