DFlintstone

UPDATE 4/16. I started this back in 2012 to see if Cruiser could post his tips in a place like this, then I went on to add stuff I myself thought would be handy. NOW HE HAS HIS OWN SITE >> http://cruiser54.com Which he updates. The link below contains the bulk of the tips, maybe not updated.

Here's a link to Crusier's "Mostly Renix." He was a teck on the floor at Jeep for years, we are super lucky to have this info.>> (but now the above link is better) https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/cr...x-tips-153657/

Plenty there applies to later jeeps as well.

Please don't post here.

I've added some stuff I liked here below. It's not by Cruiser! (although I stole some...


Here's a deal on the NSS> http://bc4x4.com/tech/2010/jeep-neut...ty-switch-nss/


~~~2357s are the heavy duty/brighter version of the 1157 combination tail/signal light bulb.

795s are a halogen single filament bulb replacement for the old 1034s like you have in your reverse lights. Much brighter.

Here!, in the 4th down is more "good stuff" (on Par with Cruisers stuff!) > https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/he...ix-links-1397/

~~~Possibly is the ECU then. If you're going to the JY, get one out of a 1989 or 1990 with the part number ending in 428 or 429. There is a 9 HP difference between an 87 and a 89 to 90 ECU.

~~~ Have you checked the yellow trigger wire at the alternator plug for power with the ignition on? (my take, one place to check the yellow from the ignition, and something to check with charging issues)

Renix Vacuum Harnesses/CCV stuff.
The vacuum harness that attaches to the front of the valve cover and includes the grommet/fitting is Napa part number BK 715-1367
The vacuum harness that is closest to the air cleaner, EGR etc, and is called the rear harness, is Napa part number BK-715-1366.
The tube from the rear of the valve cover to the intake manifold is part number 715-1365.
The grommet alone for the rear is a 42088 Dorman

Wiring Diagram, http://jeep.zerok.ru/index.php?page=XJ1984-1991

A BUNCH OF JEEP WIRING DIAGRAMS. (THANK YOU TOM!)> http://oljeep.com/gw/elec/cherokee/edge_cherokee.html


Here's a great set of engine pics, starting on post #43> https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/88x...166463/index3/

The Brown wire off the ignition switch may power the signals and blower.

On Renix Titinia 02 sensors, (C/O DJ) > http://www.tomco-inc.com/Tech_Tips/ttt20.pdf

Speedo gear stuff for all> http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/
Coolant system flush, THANKS DJB!
"Remove the top radiator hose and top heater hose from the t-stat cover. Remove the bottom radiator hose from the water pump (very easy if the plastic air filter box is removed 1st). Stick a garden hose in the heater hose and flush. Stick the garden hose on the heater hose nipple on the thermostat cover and flush. Stick garden hose in the top radiator hose and flush. All areas are now flushed without crud moving from one place and lodging in another."


Search Junk-yards near your ZIP> http://car-part.com/

cruiser54

Updated Sensor Ground Test
Cruiser’s Renix Sensor Ground Test
　
This sensor ground circuit affects the CTS, TPS, IAT, MAP, ECU and diagnostic connector grounds. It’s very important and not something to overlook in diagnosing your Renix Jeep as it is common for the harnesses to have poor crimps causing poor grounds. If any or all of the sensors do not have a good ground, the signal the ECU receives from these sensors is inaccurate.
Set your meter to measure Ohms. Be sure the key is in the OFF position. Using the positive (red) lead of your ohmmeter, probe the B terminal of the flat 3 wire connector of the TPS . The letters are embossed on the connector itself.
Touch the black lead of your meter to the negative battery post. Wiggle the wiring harness where it runs parallel to the valve cover and also near the MAP sensor mounted on the firewall. If you have an 87 or 88 with the C101 connector mounted on the firewall above the brake booster, wiggle it, too.
You want to see as close to 0 ohms of resistance as possible. And when wiggling the harnesses/connectors the resistance value should stay low. If there is a variance in the values when wiggling the wires, you have a poor crimp/connection in the wiring harness or a poor ground at the engine dipstick tube stud. On 87 and 88 models, you could have a poor connection at the C101 connector as well.
Revised 06/12/2012

DFlintstone

My thanks to Djgrayxj for providing this chart in a form I could copy/paste! HEY! He even sent me an up-graded version you see here!





C-101 diagram.. the letters are A B C D E, bottom to top.



Vacuum Reservoir. I think this here below is for the later. Renix has the check valves on each end of the ball, the later has a check valve in the line as diagrammed here. Same routing and principal.



Here on our starter relay, the solonoid can be jumped. Also the five fusible links come off the big post.



SPDT Relay function!


Rear drum brake Star Wheel...(the screwdriver is to hold the lever in to LOOSEN it.)








Oil Filter Adapter O-Ring Sizes
87-90 Renix Model Orings

0.799 x 0.103 AS568 size -117
1.296 x 0.139 AS568 size -219
2.484 x 0.139 AS568 size –230

Dealer Part Numbers for Renix. Sold individually:
33002970, 33002971, 33002972

Renix kit from Crown Automotive-33002970K


91-01 HO Model Orings

0.676 x 0.070 AS568 size -017
0.859 x 0.139 AS568 size -212
2.484 x 0.139 AS568 size -230



Below is the inside of the tank. The black ring you see is the end of the cone that belongs on the end of the fuel return line on the pump assembly. That cone on the metal line holds the bottom of the whole deal in place. That should be fished out, and installed on the metal fuel return line on the assembly. Then you seat the cone into the receptacle in the tank when installing it. The fuel return and pickup are located in a tray inside the tank, so return fuel is available to be picked up at the pump inlet, even when the tank is low or at an angle. This "tray" has a downside now with alcohol in the fuel. Add just a little water, the ethanol separates from the fuel, it's heavier, and will be on the bottom. Without sloshing around, you could be recirculating a mess of alcohol and water. Might run ****ie, might not.



Below is to see your % of coolant with a normal hydrometer. Ethylene Glycol Coolant Only. (50/50 is the normal goal)



ECU Terminals Thanks cruiser!


V-This below is for an 88..Thanks to CCken I think.




HEATER CORE. PIN-HOLE LEAK
In two, or three? Of my Jeeps, and probably a few more of others, (including a Subaru), just one small tube, (Dia of quarter, 3 in long), or just half to start with, of none other than Aluma Seal brand stop leak, has been successful every time plugging small pinhole leaks in the heater core, without clogging anything, or having any undesirable effect.

I mix 1/2 a tube in water in a bottle. Right before an extended drive, add it in. Give it days or a week to find the hole. Add the other 1/2 if that doesn't work. That's it, still leaks, no point in adding more in my opinion. The fine powder will try to settle, and do that better in areas with lower flow, like back behind #6. Add more, a thicker layer somewhere.

During those first days/week whatever will lay around below 3000, 3500 RPM, is just gonna stay there. Why not goose it up over 4000 now and then to pick up a bit more into circulation? Plus you can pray there. This might help a tad!


TEST WATER PUMP >> (thanks Killbox>>
With a cold engine pull the thermostat housing and thermostat, start you engine and see if it blows water/coolant out . A good water pump will blow water out like a fire hose. A bad water pump will not move any fluid.


Thanks to 88Dutchman>>
AC Compressor Bypass/W Idler Pulley For 87-90 Renix

Get an AC bracket from a 92. At NAPA pick up a Dorman AC bypass pulley, NAPA # p/n 660-1819. The belt size remains the same. You need to use the pulley spacer that comes with it in the hardware bag, it moves the pulley out about an 1/8" so that it lines up perfectly with the rest of the stock pulleys.

AW4 operation..Radi
1st gear - solenoid 1 ON, solenoid 2 OFF
2nd gear - solenoid 1 ON, solenoid 2 ON
3rd gear - solenoid 1 OFF, solenoid 2 ON
4th gear - solenoid 1 OFF, solenoid 2 OFF
Lockup - Solenoid 3

Coil Testing numbers. "Primary" is the 12V through the coil. "Secondary" is the zap out of it to the dizy. It's tested from the "coil wire" terminal to the positive terminal of the secondary.

Primary, Diamond, .97-1.8. Toyodenso, .95-1.2 (ohms)
Secondary, (to primary pos), Diamond, 11,300-15,300, Toyodenso, 11,300-13,300 (ohms)
So you want to see about an ohm through the primary, and about 12,000 between primary pos, and the high volt secondary, out terminal.

Plugs




And:...
XJ Cherokee and ZJ Grand Cherokee 4.0L engine blocks interchange.

2000+ TJ Wrangler and WJ Grand Cherokee 4.0L engine blocks interchange.

XJ/ZJ blocks and 2000+ TJ/WJ blocks do not interchange without significant modifications. (1997-1999 4.0L TJ Wrangler blocks will interchange in XJ/ZJ and visa-versa).

TJ/WJ 4.0L Engine blocks underwent clean sheet design changes effective in the 1999 WJ Grand and 2000 TJ Wrangler. These blocks are not interchangeable with XJ/ZJ engine blocks. The reason is motor mount bolt holes and belt driven accessory mounting bolt holes are in different locations, or not present at all, TJ/WJ vs. XJ/ZJ.

Wiring Diagram, updated 11/13>> http://jeep.zerok.ru/index.php?page=XJ1984-1991



Some #'s for fuel line--and FPR? rings and stuff:

Quick disconnect part numbers

So far the Napa part numbers for just orings is:

Napa 730-5018 3/8 Viton individual orings $1.56 each
Napa 730-5017 5/16 Viton individual orings $1.35 each
Napa CRB 212305 fuel line repair kit 5/16? $15.93 each


Mopar repair kits:

83502745 fuel line repair kit 5/16 $6.99 Morris
83504447 fuel line/Trans line repair kit 3/8 $8.99 Morris

Gee oh Dee

I wonder if you could edit even if I close it?

If its closed and you can still edit then no one else can post...just a thought...

Basslicks

Hey bud... I know you didn't want people posting in here, but I wanted to make you aware so you could edit it - the "GoJeep" url has changed. It's now http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/ the go.jeep-xj.info url goes through some really spammy redirects.

Thanks for all the info you've put together and all the help you've been over the years.