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heli coil for calipers

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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 05:54 PM
  #16  
5-90's Avatar
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: AMC242
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Originally Posted by Pnguyen7
no go look at it. put new rotors and pads. It has plenty of room. as the pads wear it move away form the nut. ive had it since i did all around new brakes. and no marks on the rotor. and has more than enough room now that they are worn. Ive got a nut and a lock washer been there for well over 5000 miles. and still going.
If it works for you, well and good. I don't like playing with clearances in the braking system, and I'm not about to do something like that - since it strikes me (personally) as totally half-assed.

"When I fix something it stays fixed" - and if I've done my job properly, you can't even tell it's been fixed until you take it apart.
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 06:22 PM
  #17  
MileHiXJ's Avatar
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From: Highlands Ranch
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
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After reading all of this, it sounds like what is really needed is a new steering knuckle. That's what the caliper retaining bolts thread into right? You can probably pick up a decent knuckle at a junkyard for cheap, less than $25. Then you can go back to using the correct bolts. The toughest part is just taking the knuckle off. I just did both sides of upper and lower ball joints, so I know what's involved. A $19 ball joint separator from Harbor Freight makes taking off the knuckle a snap. I have to agree with 5-90 about doing the job right.
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Old Jul 20, 2011 | 12:32 AM
  #18  
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From: Columbus, Ohio
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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its a jeep not a Cadillac. bet my brakes work just as well as yours. i bet there is something on your jeep thats half assed and you never will know
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Old Jul 20, 2011 | 02:28 PM
  #19  
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Year: 1988
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Engine: AMC242
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Originally Posted by Pnguyen7
its a jeep not a Cadillac. bet my brakes work just as well as yours. i bet there is something on your jeep thats half assed and you never will know
I'm not saying your brakes won't work - I'm merely saying that there are some systems I don't like altering too much, and brakes is one of them.

I've caught half-assed PO repairs on my rigs - and I set them right when I see them, because I don't like it (I'm a perfectionist. Most of my add-ons look OEM or better as well, I'm just funny that way. I tend to use Weatherpack connectors, colour-coded wire following GM or Bosch standards, and all that rot. Far more effort than necessary - but they're standards I'm used to, and don't have to think about when I'm working on them.) If a part can be repaired effectively, I'll repair it. If it must be replaced, I'll replace it. If I can, I'll fabricate one that is better than OEM - advantage to an engineering background, as well as a mechanical one.
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Old Jul 20, 2011 | 03:39 PM
  #20  
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From: Gilbert AZ/Las Cruces NM
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 upgraded
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well here is my input i had a bolt (grade 10.9) sheer off for my caliper this last wheeling trip the brake pads help the entire caliper on.

so... i drilled it out and did a slightly longer bolt and locktite/nut combo. I had to do this on the other side as well. it holds without problem

you cannot buy just hte knuckle here. whole axle ($300+ for a d30, yes i typed that right) or you dont get any of it but the shafts or odds and ends. knuckles and housing stay together

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