i would like to know what size heli coil it would take to repair my caliper/spindle bolt.
sorry i didnt search this but didnt really know how to go about this one.
respectfully,
Phil

 

...... same size as the.bolt that came out of it. Not sure I understand the question.

 

i understand it would be the same size as the bolt but what is the size? i.e. bolt thickness...thread count/size...ect.

 

Take the pin to the hardware store (or an MRO house) and either match it up with a nut - note the thread pitch - or the guy behind the counter can measure it for you.

A good HeliCoil kit will include three or four lengths of thread insert, the tap, and the drill you need (for a single thread pitch.)

The only catch - make sure you get the hole drilled normal to the part surface! That means the axis of the hole is at a right angle to the surface of the part. I've done a few caliper brackets with Heli-Coils, and that's the biggest thing to worry about. Remove the bracket to work on it, a drill press will be best for drilling the hole. The tap will follow the drilled hole, so make sure it's straight!

(Normally, I'd go out and look to see what thread size I have for Heli-Coils, but I use enough of them that I've covered from #10 to 1/2" SAE, and M3-M12 ISO...)

 

Go to your local jy and pull the part. Break parts are something you want right not patched.

 

im gonna have to agree this would be better , brakes are not something to play with

 

put a longer bolt thru same diameter and add a lock washer on the backside with a nut and on the other side a washer. ive been running 1 on my driver sides like that for 6months now. zettlers $3

 

I stripped the bolt on the caliper and it made the brakes stick. Had a smoke trail down the road cause the rotor got so hot Put heli coil in the caliper and bought a new bolt and it seems to work fine.

 

A heli coil IS NOT as strong as the factory threads. You are talking about your breaks be smart

 

A properly installed high quality heli coil is stronger then factory threads.

 

I used the longer bolt and nut trick as well. worked for a few months now

 

They have fixer caliper bolts at the parts stores. Has slightly larger threads, with a cutter groove that rethreads the hole as you thread it in. I've used them succesfully before. Just have to match up to the one you have. I searched O'Reilly real quick and came up with this set that lists it as oversize. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...1259&ppt=C0064. With the regular bolt and the separate slider, I would also consider using a heli-coil kit. Just make sure to drill STRAIGHT.

 

just go look at how the brake woorks. as long as the caliper can slide on these bolts then its fine. they are there so the pressure of the pad being pressed together the caliper can move when the pad gets smaller thats why we have what they call floating calipers

 

You're right - especially in a casting a Heli-Coil is not as strong as factory threads.

It's a good deal stronger.

When building performance engines, I would install Heli-Coils into the block for the cylinder head screws and main bearing cap screws as a rule. I would also put them in the head for the rocker arm pivot screws - again, as a rule.

Why? Because they're stronger.

I would trust a Heli-Coil much farther than I would trust putting a longer bolt on to stick a nut on it - putting a longer bolt & nut in is a rather half-arsed repair, and could run into other issues (like chewing up your brake rotor because you got a bolt that's too long.)

 

no go look at it. put new rotors and pads. It has plenty of room. as the pads wear it move away form the nut. ive had it since i did all around new brakes. and no marks on the rotor. and has more than enough room now that they are worn. Ive got a nut and a lock washer been there for well over 5000 miles. and still going.