1993 2dr with 250k miles on it. Head gasket blew so I purchases a reman motor from Titan Engines. Original motor ran fine when pulled (other than white smoke!).

Trying to start it for the very first time, will not fire up. I'm almost certain it is flooding the engine with gas. It doesn't even sound like it's trying to fire up. I can smell gas from the exhaust.

Replaced: CPS, Distributor (plus cap and rotor), Plug wires, Plugs, Coil, TPS, Battery

I have seen spark on all 6 plugs, and watched all 6 injectors fire. I have verified that I installed the distributor correctly, so I do not believe this is a timing issue.

Cranked it over with the injectors pulled out and it backfired, I think because there is enough extra gas in the cylinders to ignite.

I have pulled spark plugs and let gas evaporate out of the cylinders twice now, each time no start and not firing on any cylinders.

I have no idea what can cause the motor to flood like this? THANK YOU for any ideas

P.S. I'm in Salt Lake City and it's in the mid to low 30F's.

 

I think the Reason that I'm the only one who will Reply to your Dilemma is because you should be contacting "Titan Engines."

If they "Fixed" it, perhaps you Shouldn't be looking to the Forum on why it didn't work.
I'll assume they have a 1-800 number, or Email, FBook, or Twitter for "Help" when an engine rebuild doesn't start.
That's what you pay for...
"Customer Service."

The problem might not be you, or your install, but the engine rebuild itself.

I've purchased (Many) parts (Alternators/starters etc) in the past, that didn't work, because the dudes who put it together sucked... Many of those parts came from SubStandard Factories in SubStandard Countries, made by SubStandard "Employees.."

It's not your fault. Call them, explain what's going on, send picts from your phone. Please keep a WRITTEN Log, of WHO you Spoke to, and what they said. (Times and Date!) So you can make them fix what you PAID for.

Keep Titan Honest with their Business Practices. Get what you Paid for, including any assistance, troubleshooting, etc..


Good Luck, and God Bless.

 

Also...
you realize these engines, and all Cherokee XJs are dependent on the "Negative" Ground wires to work properly?
if the main Negative from the Battery, or the Battery to the Frame or Battery to the Engine wires aren't CLEAN and SOLID (Read: New Wire that isn't Corroded) the computer and the engine ingntion components will NOT get the PROPER return Resistance, hence causing a "No Start" situation...?

 

Check the fuel pressure (with a gauge) and then run a compression test on all cylinders.

 

Checking compression and fuel pressure and electrical stuff is certainly a good idea but it sounds like you have fuel and spark....you also need those things to happen at the correct time and you need the valves to open and close at the right time.

As far as the engine build is concerned cam timing/index comes to mind. Take valve cover off, turn crank so # 1 is at tdc on firing stroke. Are both valves closed? If they are cam is at least close to right . Then look to see if distributor rotor is actually pointing at what you are assuming is #1 plug wire and the plug wires are where they should y.

Also, you said you replaced a bunch of sensors and that the previous engine ran ok. Did you use the old sensors when you first tried the new engine or did you replace the sensors before trying it? If you have only tried it with all the new Chinese sensors that raises other issues.

I would at least try the cam timing check and compression check before calling the rebuilder so they don't just blow you off.

 

I'm thinking you're 180 out on the timing. See Cruisers writeup on indexing the distributor at https://cruiser54.com/?p=68 Pay attention to the plug wire locations as there are some incorrect drawings out there. Original flexplate or aftermarket? The flexplate did change along the way and aftermarket has been spotty quality.

 

A timing light attached to the #1 plug wire should show an indication of about 12 degrees BTDC while cranking if the cam and distributor are correctly timed.

 

Thank you all for your suggestions!!

Re-did all grounds, changed braided cable on the back of the valve cover to a new cable, and replaced the battery ground cable. Removed and cleaned the grounds on the dipstick holder, and the one that goes next to ground from battery under the coil.

Also double checked distributor timing. I am 100% on, and pulled valve cover to make sure I am on the compression stroke.

Still no start.

Couple notes: Oil Pressure sender or gauge doesn't work (never did), temp sensor on the back of the engine is broken. Through my research, neither of those things should cause a no start issue...right?

This car is really clean, no rust, no funky wiring or added accessories. Really at a loss of what it could be!!!!

 

Original Flex plate. Would this affect the CPS?

 

Looks correct to me. I am not 180deg off. Pulled valve cover and watched intake and exhaust valves to be sure of this.

Tried to start it with original sensors, then replaced the ones that can cause no start. The new sensors are made in china.

My plan now is to start testing all the sensors with a multimeter.

 

RESOLVED!

Forgot to plug the distributor back in after cleaning and replacing grounds, and verifying timing.

I think this all chalks up to bad grounds caused by the engine paint not being cleaned from grounding surfaces. Thank you all for your input!!!

It started and I just broke in the cam

 

Yet you had spark during this time of no running. How can that be?

 

I pulled the distributor to re-prime the oil pump, and then double checked that my timing was right. This was the last thing I did before posting those follow-up questions when it still didn't run.

It was plugged in all the way until the end. Ended up just being bad ground somewhere!