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Front suspension issue

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Old Nov 29, 2020 | 04:54 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by Stevo1971
I’m looking at a Moog for $60. It’s about midrange in price. This is a stock XJ so I don’t need anything crazy.

Moog DS1235 Track Bar, 1 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C5403G..._eXaXFb938GDJW
Thats the one I bought and installed no issues with it at all.
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Old Nov 29, 2020 | 07:56 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by country2
If you cannot find them maybe a line wrench would work. Also first time I've heard them called spanner wrench I've also called them offset boxed in but spanner wrench sounds better!
In America, you have different terms for many automotive things from what is typical in England (or in my case, Australia)

a spanner is definitely the correct term out here, although as our culture has been Americanised, so the term wrench has crept in

Also had to explain why I need a seemingly ridiculous number of spanners

more than 10 sets with different features

the correct tool for that application is a 6 point ring spanner, be it 8mm, or 5/16" (except your corners are now rounded)

I have Metwrinch and Alligator spanner sets to deal with those aggravations

you can probably DC weld a 8mm spanner on there with 2 x 12V batteries in series
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Old Nov 29, 2020 | 08:38 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by awg
In America, you have different terms for many automotive things from what is typical in England (or in my case, Australia)

a spanner is definitely the correct term out here, although as our culture has been Americanised, so the term wrench has crept in

Also had to explain why I need a seemingly ridiculous number of spanners

more than 10 sets with different features

the correct tool for that application is a 6 point ring spanner, be it 8mm, or 5/16" (except your corners are now rounded)

I have Metwrinch and Alligator spanner sets to deal with those aggravations

you can probably DC weld a 8mm spanner on there with 2 x 12V batteries in series
Thanks Aussie, I ended up cutting the head of the bolt off with a grinder. Driveshaft came right off 👍
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Old Nov 29, 2020 | 11:29 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Stevo1971
Thanks Aussie, I ended up cutting the head of the bolt off with a grinder. Driveshaft came right off 👍
happy ending, so long as you got the headless fastener out ok

Its only usually the one bolt that needs the spanner, due to the angle preventing 1/4" sockets fitting

its also possible to jack the wheels so the driveshaft can be rotated and avoid that problem

I put blue loctite on them
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Old Dec 5, 2020 | 06:19 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by country2
Thats the one I bought and installed no issues with it at all.
Okay so I installed the new track bar. Took some doing since my Jeep has the front skid plate limiting hand room. I removed the skid plate and had plenty of room to work.
Took her for a spin and Ugh, still have that damn wobble. Didn’t seem as bad as before but I didn’t drive far.
while working on this I noticed the Moog sway bar link (driver’s side) I replaced a few months ago is already garbage. The bushings are majorly cracked and the top one is completely split. I didn’t like the way it looked when I put it on.The bushings seemed too shmooshed being brand new. The passenger side link is basically missing the bottom bushing all together. I’m sure both tie rod ends are junk too.
Would failed sway bar link bushings cause a wobble??
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Old Dec 5, 2020 | 07:25 PM
  #66  
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I guess I beat this thread to death.
I’ll get it figured out eventually.
Thanks all for your input.
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Old Dec 5, 2020 | 07:28 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by Stevo1971
Okay so I installed the new track bar. Took some doing since my Jeep has the front skid plate limiting hand room. I removed the skid plate and had plenty of room to work.
Took her for a spin and Ugh, still have that damn wobble. Didn’t seem as bad as before but I didn’t drive far.
while working on this I noticed the Moog sway bar link (driver’s side) I replaced a few months ago is already garbage. The bushings are majorly cracked and the top one is completely split. I didn’t like the way it looked when I put it on.The bushings seemed too shmooshed being brand new. The passenger side link is basically missing the bottom bushing all together. I’m sure both tie rod ends are junk too.
Would failed sway bar link bushings cause a wobble??
Don't think it would.
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Old Dec 8, 2020 | 09:49 PM
  #68  
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When replacing your TB, how tight fitting was the axle side? That bolt can wallow out the hole on the axle and cause unwanted movement.
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Old Dec 10, 2020 | 06:44 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by Tgramsey
When replacing your TB, how tight fitting was the axle side? That bolt can wallow out the hole on the axle and cause unwanted movement.
It was a tight fit.
I decided to rotate my tires as it’s been awhile and the wobble is gone. So, it was either an unbalanced tire as suggested earlier which I can’t detect in the rear or tightening all lug nuts with an impact gun and checking with a cheater bar may have corrected any il-tightened nuts or il-seated lugs I replaced earlier.
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Old Dec 11, 2020 | 09:25 PM
  #70  
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Next job is to rebuild the front drive shaft.
Anyone on here do this before (I’m sure) and have any info on what part numbers for U joints?
thanks
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Old Dec 12, 2020 | 01:20 PM
  #71  
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Front-...26.m5232.l9681
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Old Dec 13, 2020 | 05:46 PM
  #72  
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thanks! I remember now you posted this earlier
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