Replacing wheel hub bearing assembly '01 Limited
06-25-2018, 10:05 AM
#1
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Replacing wheel hub bearing assembly '01 Limited
I know there are dozens of articles here and videos at "YouTube University" regarding replacing the wheel bearing hubs, and I've read and watched a lot, like 20 of them, so I have a pretty good idea of what to expect; it could be smooth going or a bumpy road ahead.
Has anyone recently done this and has any 'additional tips' on things 'they' encountered that I may of course encounter, and what their 'fix' was?
I pretty much have a list of tools and additional things I'll need to make it go as smooth as possible, but what other tools or items would be good to have on hand "just-in-case" everything goes south?
In addition to the new Timken hub assemblies, I have new hub bolts, axle nut kits, cotter pins, new axle u-joints, new Powerstop Z36 rotor and pad kit, caliper bolts and rubber bushings (since I'm there figured I'll replace them too). I just wanted to be prepared for the worst so I got everything I would possibly need since once I start tearing stuff apart, I'll have no way to get to an auto parts store to get replacements.
If anyone has any additional tips or help please add. Even the smallest tip or piece of advice is better than none.
I'll post my experience with this project when completed.
Thanxs all
Has anyone recently done this and has any 'additional tips' on things 'they' encountered that I may of course encounter, and what their 'fix' was?
I pretty much have a list of tools and additional things I'll need to make it go as smooth as possible, but what other tools or items would be good to have on hand "just-in-case" everything goes south?
In addition to the new Timken hub assemblies, I have new hub bolts, axle nut kits, cotter pins, new axle u-joints, new Powerstop Z36 rotor and pad kit, caliper bolts and rubber bushings (since I'm there figured I'll replace them too). I just wanted to be prepared for the worst so I got everything I would possibly need since once I start tearing stuff apart, I'll have no way to get to an auto parts store to get replacements.
If anyone has any additional tips or help please add. Even the smallest tip or piece of advice is better than none.
I'll post my experience with this project when completed.
Thanxs all
Last edited by DaRock; 06-25-2018 at 10:11 AM. Reason: added something
06-25-2018, 10:17 AM
#2
CF Veteran
Sounds like you are in pretty good shape already.
You didn't mention the condition of your existing hub bolts. If they are heavily rusted, the heads will want to crumble, making them a little difficult to remove. Mine were in this condition. They are typically 12pt 13m bolts, but in at least two cases I had to put a 1/2 socket on them (just slightly smaller) to get them moving due to degradation of the bolt head. For one particularly bad bolt head I had to use an Irwin bolt extracting socket. (These are sold in kits at auto parts stores, and will bite into a bad bolt head and get it off, but the bolt is not reusable typically).
You didn't mention the condition of your existing hub bolts. If they are heavily rusted, the heads will want to crumble, making them a little difficult to remove. Mine were in this condition. They are typically 12pt 13m bolts, but in at least two cases I had to put a 1/2 socket on them (just slightly smaller) to get them moving due to degradation of the bolt head. For one particularly bad bolt head I had to use an Irwin bolt extracting socket. (These are sold in kits at auto parts stores, and will bite into a bad bolt head and get it off, but the bolt is not reusable typically).
06-25-2018, 10:22 AM
#3
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
The socket/bolt trick to pop the hubs out is fantastic and will save you hours of frustration.
Be sure to torque the axle nut to 180 ft/lbs or the hub will wear out prematurely.
I use anti-seize on the hub-to-knuckle rim and behind the rotor to make removal easier next time. Just make sure you don't get anti-seize on the friction surfaces!
I used heat on the old axle nut to remove it (since I was replacing the hub anyway) and it worked great to remove the axle nut with a breaker bar and not a lot of effort.
Take care putting the axles in and taking them out so you don't damage the seals (they're inside the differential housing).
Put your new u-joints in the freezer prior to installation and they'll go in easier. I found that some PB Blaster helped to get the old caps out. When installing the new joint, be careful to keep the needle bearings in place (an extra dollop of grease is good for this) - they like to fall in and get under the cap. If you go slow and take care it's pretty easy. Just make sure the joint moves freely once it's back together.
Take care when removing the caliper bolts - you don't want to snap them off in the knuckle - I did this once and it turned a simple job into a real PITA project.
Be sure to torque the axle nut to 180 ft/lbs or the hub will wear out prematurely.
I use anti-seize on the hub-to-knuckle rim and behind the rotor to make removal easier next time. Just make sure you don't get anti-seize on the friction surfaces!
I used heat on the old axle nut to remove it (since I was replacing the hub anyway) and it worked great to remove the axle nut with a breaker bar and not a lot of effort.
Take care putting the axles in and taking them out so you don't damage the seals (they're inside the differential housing).
Put your new u-joints in the freezer prior to installation and they'll go in easier. I found that some PB Blaster helped to get the old caps out. When installing the new joint, be careful to keep the needle bearings in place (an extra dollop of grease is good for this) - they like to fall in and get under the cap. If you go slow and take care it's pretty easy. Just make sure the joint moves freely once it's back together.
Take care when removing the caliper bolts - you don't want to snap them off in the knuckle - I did this once and it turned a simple job into a real PITA project.
06-25-2018, 10:38 AM
#4
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Year: 1995
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Sounds like you are in pretty good shape already.
You didn't mention the condition of your existing hub bolts. If they are heavily rusted, the heads will want to crumble, making them a little difficult to remove. Mine were in this condition. They are typically 12pt 13m bolts, but in at least two cases I had to put a 1/2 socket on them (just slightly smaller) to get them moving due to degradation of the bolt head. For one particularly bad bolt head I had to use an Irwin bolt extracting socket. (These are sold in kits at auto parts stores, and will bite into a bad bolt head and get it off, but the bolt is not reusable typically).
You didn't mention the condition of your existing hub bolts. If they are heavily rusted, the heads will want to crumble, making them a little difficult to remove. Mine were in this condition. They are typically 12pt 13m bolts, but in at least two cases I had to put a 1/2 socket on them (just slightly smaller) to get them moving due to degradation of the bolt head. For one particularly bad bolt head I had to use an Irwin bolt extracting socket. (These are sold in kits at auto parts stores, and will bite into a bad bolt head and get it off, but the bolt is not reusable typically).
06-25-2018, 10:56 AM
#5
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Year: 1995
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yah.. like what was mentioned above. The condition of your front end will tell you ahead of time how much of a PITA the job will be. If at all. If you see lotsa rust. I'd PB Blast every bolt in sight the night before.. let that stuff soak in all night. It will make for a happier day when you sit down to work.
Here are some things I do, and bring to every project that you may laugh at or think might seem unnecessary.. but I've learned to appreciate over the years.
1) Whenever removing a wheel. I slip that wheel under the car as close as possible to the wheel well. So that if.. God forbid and I hope it NEVER happens.. but IF.. the jeep slips off its jacks and falls. You can at least know that you have that tire to help save you from getting a crushed skull.
I've seen TWO trucks slip off thier jacks. The first when I was just a kid at 14 yrs old. The second when I was in my 20's. Both cases happened due to idiocy on the part of the owners. But still. after seeing those trucks crash to the ground. The first one nearly taking off the legs of its owner. Who only barely pulled his legs out in time. I hold a special terror of what all that steel can do to the human body. Put the tire under the body man. It's a simple act. And will give you a little more peace of mind.
2) I go to those carpet stores and I buy those 2' x 3' carpet samples. You can sometimes get them for just a couple of bucks. Sometimes even for free. I use them to keep my heiny clean. And toss them under the vehicle so I don't get gravel in my hair. They're nice to have.
3) I have a 1 1/2' and a 3' length of steel pipe. I love those pipes. Whenever I can't break a bolt loose. I pull out the 1 1/2' pipe. Slip it over the end of my socket wrench or breaker bar. And use the extra strength that applied physics gives me to get that bolt loose. If THAT pipe isnt enough. I put it back in my toolbox and go get the 3' piece out of my garage. THAT sucker will break the bolt loose.
Of course. As the great Stan Lee once said.. "with great power comes great responsibility". You will need to be careful to work that stubborn bolt out without just snapping it in half. But at least you won't have to struggle with not having enough power to do what you need.
4) Last of all. When you work on a vehicle. Make sure you have a phone nearby. Just in case you bonk your head or something falls on you or slice your fingers.. you can calmly use your nose to dial for a little help.
Have fun. I love driving my XJ around. Knowing that its a sound vehicle because of the work I personally put into it.
Here are some things I do, and bring to every project that you may laugh at or think might seem unnecessary.. but I've learned to appreciate over the years.
1) Whenever removing a wheel. I slip that wheel under the car as close as possible to the wheel well. So that if.. God forbid and I hope it NEVER happens.. but IF.. the jeep slips off its jacks and falls. You can at least know that you have that tire to help save you from getting a crushed skull.
I've seen TWO trucks slip off thier jacks. The first when I was just a kid at 14 yrs old. The second when I was in my 20's. Both cases happened due to idiocy on the part of the owners. But still. after seeing those trucks crash to the ground. The first one nearly taking off the legs of its owner. Who only barely pulled his legs out in time. I hold a special terror of what all that steel can do to the human body. Put the tire under the body man. It's a simple act. And will give you a little more peace of mind.
2) I go to those carpet stores and I buy those 2' x 3' carpet samples. You can sometimes get them for just a couple of bucks. Sometimes even for free. I use them to keep my heiny clean. And toss them under the vehicle so I don't get gravel in my hair. They're nice to have.
3) I have a 1 1/2' and a 3' length of steel pipe. I love those pipes. Whenever I can't break a bolt loose. I pull out the 1 1/2' pipe. Slip it over the end of my socket wrench or breaker bar. And use the extra strength that applied physics gives me to get that bolt loose. If THAT pipe isnt enough. I put it back in my toolbox and go get the 3' piece out of my garage. THAT sucker will break the bolt loose.
Of course. As the great Stan Lee once said.. "with great power comes great responsibility". You will need to be careful to work that stubborn bolt out without just snapping it in half. But at least you won't have to struggle with not having enough power to do what you need.
4) Last of all. When you work on a vehicle. Make sure you have a phone nearby. Just in case you bonk your head or something falls on you or slice your fingers.. you can calmly use your nose to dial for a little help.
Have fun. I love driving my XJ around. Knowing that its a sound vehicle because of the work I personally put into it.
06-25-2018, 11:50 AM
#6
Member
Thread Starter
Sounds like you are in pretty good shape already.
You didn't mention the condition of your existing hub bolts. If they are heavily rusted, the heads will want to crumble, making them a little difficult to remove. Mine were in this condition. They are typically 12pt 13m bolts, but in at least two cases I had to put a 1/2 socket on them (just slightly smaller) to get them moving due to degradation of the bolt head. For one particularly bad bolt head I had to use an Irwin bolt extracting socket. (These are sold in kits at auto parts stores, and will bite into a bad bolt head and get it off, but the bolt is not reusable typically).
You didn't mention the condition of your existing hub bolts. If they are heavily rusted, the heads will want to crumble, making them a little difficult to remove. Mine were in this condition. They are typically 12pt 13m bolts, but in at least two cases I had to put a 1/2 socket on them (just slightly smaller) to get them moving due to degradation of the bolt head. For one particularly bad bolt head I had to use an Irwin bolt extracting socket. (These are sold in kits at auto parts stores, and will bite into a bad bolt head and get it off, but the bolt is not reusable typically).
06-25-2018, 12:48 PM
#7
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Groton, MA
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
I would NOT worry. You have already acquired new hub bolts. If you run into trouble, just follow Jordan's advice re: the stripped head removal. Those bolts go straight through the knuckle and only thread into the hub itself and once they're free of the hub they will slide right out. They are torqued to 80 ft/lbs IIRC, and I've always been able to get them out with just a breaker bar. I actually have a 10" or so piece of PVC pipe that I use as a "cheater" (like outersketcher describes).. it's ok to use the cheater since if you snap one or more of the bolts, the hub will come out.
I don't think you'll have any trouble since you're far enough south to avoid the constant winter road salt that we deal with up north. Just carefully spray the bolts the night before with PB Blaster/Liquid wrench and then once you have the old rotor off and the caliper out of the way then give the back end of the bolts a good wire brushing and generous dose of PB Blaster. Gently tap the bolt with a hammer (ball peen is best, but regular will work) to vibrate the part and help the penetrating oil penetrate.
Seriously though, you'll be fine. I would wager the most frustrating part will be pressing the old u-joints out. Heat, PB Blaster and a bench vise will make it easier - then having the new joints cold from the freezer will help get them in. Grease the caps and add a little in the cap (I "bloop" a bit of grease in then use my finger to press the needle bearings against the side.).
I don't think you'll have any trouble since you're far enough south to avoid the constant winter road salt that we deal with up north. Just carefully spray the bolts the night before with PB Blaster/Liquid wrench and then once you have the old rotor off and the caliper out of the way then give the back end of the bolts a good wire brushing and generous dose of PB Blaster. Gently tap the bolt with a hammer (ball peen is best, but regular will work) to vibrate the part and help the penetrating oil penetrate.
Seriously though, you'll be fine. I would wager the most frustrating part will be pressing the old u-joints out. Heat, PB Blaster and a bench vise will make it easier - then having the new joints cold from the freezer will help get them in. Grease the caps and add a little in the cap (I "bloop" a bit of grease in then use my finger to press the needle bearings against the side.).
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06-25-2018, 03:37 PM
#8
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Thread Starter
06-25-2018, 03:40 PM
#9
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Thread Starter
yah.. like what was mentioned above. The condition of your front end will tell you ahead of time how much of a PITA the job will be. If at all. If you see lotsa rust. I'd PB Blast every bolt in sight the night before.. let that stuff soak in all night. It will make for a happier day when you sit down to work.
Here are some things I do, and bring to every project that you may laugh at or think might seem unnecessary.. but I've learned to appreciate over the years.
1) Whenever removing a wheel. I slip that wheel under the car as close as possible to the wheel well. So that if.. God forbid and I hope it NEVER happens.. but IF.. the jeep slips off its jacks and falls. You can at least know that you have that tire to help save you from getting a crushed skull.
I've seen TWO trucks slip off their jacks. The first when I was just a kid at 14 yrs old. The second when I was in my 20's. Both cases happened due to idiocy on the part of the owners. But still. after seeing those trucks crash to the ground. The first one nearly taking off the legs of its owner. Who only barely pulled his legs out in time. I hold a special terror of what all that steel can do to the human body. Put the tire under the body man. It's a simple act. And will give you a little more peace of mind.
2) I go to those carpet stores and I buy those 2' x 3' carpet samples. You can sometimes get them for just a couple of bucks. Sometimes even for free. I use them to keep my heiny clean. And toss them under the vehicle so I don't get gravel in my hair. They're nice to have.
3) I have a 1 1/2' and a 3' length of steel pipe. I love those pipes. Whenever I can't break a bolt loose. I pull out the 1 1/2' pipe. Slip it over the end of my socket wrench or breaker bar. And use the extra strength that applied physics gives me to get that bolt loose. If THAT pipe isn't enough. I put it back in my toolbox and go get the 3' piece out of my garage. THAT sucker will break the bolt loose.
Of course. As the great Stan Lee once said.. "with great power comes great responsibility". You will need to be careful to work that stubborn bolt out without just snapping it in half. But at least you won't have to struggle with not having enough power to do what you need.
4) Last of all. When you work on a vehicle. Make sure you have a phone nearby. Just in case you bonk your head or something falls on you or slice your fingers.. you can calmly use your nose to dial for a little help.
Have fun. I love driving my XJ around. Knowing that its a sound vehicle because of the work I personally put into it.
Here are some things I do, and bring to every project that you may laugh at or think might seem unnecessary.. but I've learned to appreciate over the years.
1) Whenever removing a wheel. I slip that wheel under the car as close as possible to the wheel well. So that if.. God forbid and I hope it NEVER happens.. but IF.. the jeep slips off its jacks and falls. You can at least know that you have that tire to help save you from getting a crushed skull.
I've seen TWO trucks slip off their jacks. The first when I was just a kid at 14 yrs old. The second when I was in my 20's. Both cases happened due to idiocy on the part of the owners. But still. after seeing those trucks crash to the ground. The first one nearly taking off the legs of its owner. Who only barely pulled his legs out in time. I hold a special terror of what all that steel can do to the human body. Put the tire under the body man. It's a simple act. And will give you a little more peace of mind.
2) I go to those carpet stores and I buy those 2' x 3' carpet samples. You can sometimes get them for just a couple of bucks. Sometimes even for free. I use them to keep my heiny clean. And toss them under the vehicle so I don't get gravel in my hair. They're nice to have.
3) I have a 1 1/2' and a 3' length of steel pipe. I love those pipes. Whenever I can't break a bolt loose. I pull out the 1 1/2' pipe. Slip it over the end of my socket wrench or breaker bar. And use the extra strength that applied physics gives me to get that bolt loose. If THAT pipe isn't enough. I put it back in my toolbox and go get the 3' piece out of my garage. THAT sucker will break the bolt loose.
Of course. As the great Stan Lee once said.. "with great power comes great responsibility". You will need to be careful to work that stubborn bolt out without just snapping it in half. But at least you won't have to struggle with not having enough power to do what you need.
4) Last of all. When you work on a vehicle. Make sure you have a phone nearby. Just in case you bonk your head or something falls on you or slice your fingers.. you can calmly use your nose to dial for a little help.
Have fun. I love driving my XJ around. Knowing that its a sound vehicle because of the work I personally put into it.
06-25-2018, 03:53 PM
#10
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x2 on the excellent advice from outersketcher
You put the u-joints in the freezer the night before so they're cold when you install them. The metal contracts when it's cold and it makes getting the caps into the yoke just a little bit easier. It's the inverse of heating up a stuck fastener.
You put the u-joints in the freezer the night before so they're cold when you install them. The metal contracts when it's cold and it makes getting the caps into the yoke just a little bit easier. It's the inverse of heating up a stuck fastener.
06-25-2018, 03:53 PM
#11
CF Veteran
For particularly tight u-joints pressing them in can be made a little easier if the holes they press into are warm (expand) and the u-joint is cold (contract). Personally, after cleaning up the surfaces and a little lube, I've never found it to be necessary. But I suppose there is a time and place.
06-25-2018, 03:58 PM
#12
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For particularly tight u-joints pressing them in can be made a little easier if the holes they press into are warm (expand) and the u-joint is cold (contract). Personally, after cleaning up the surfaces and a little lube, I've never found it to be necessary. But I suppose there is a time and place.
06-25-2018, 06:11 PM
#13
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Thread Starter
x2 on the excellent advice from outersketcher
You put the u-joints in the freezer the night before so they're cold when you install them. The metal contracts when it's cold and it makes getting the caps into the yoke just a little bit easier. It's the inverse of heating up a stuck fastener.
You put the u-joints in the freezer the night before so they're cold when you install them. The metal contracts when it's cold and it makes getting the caps into the yoke just a little bit easier. It's the inverse of heating up a stuck fastener.
I knew about the cold contraction of metal, just wasn't 100% sure it would apply in this situation.
Great tip, Thanks
06-25-2018, 06:12 PM
#14
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06-25-2018, 06:54 PM
#15
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when i did this jpb on our 88 xj the axle nuts was my biggest issue they wouldnt budge with an axle socket and 1/4 breakerbar using my weight and ended up going to a shop and asked them to losen them up and back on for 10$ i had the center caps removed so the nuts were easy access without taking the wheels off this was worth 10$ for me. only other problem was getting the hub out after the bolts were out still very tight in the knuckle, as said before PB blaster is your friend.
marc
marc