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front LH disc was hot

Old 05-07-2019, 11:27 PM
  #1  
awg
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Default front LH disc was hot

smelt burning this morn, the front LH disc was hot (and stinky)

not locked on, I got it home, keeping off the brake, it was ok just warm

on the rearward face of the steering knuckle, where the fingers of the inside pad run, is grooved out, (about 5mm x 2mm)..I am hoping people will advise mig welding & grinding that smooth will fix the issue

I lubed the slider pin when I swapped front suspension, and also have longer brake hose still to fit

sticky caliper can be an issue?

if the groove weld & new hose dont fix it, will swap a caliper off my spare

is it correct XJ calipers dont have o-ring/rebuild kits available, but a new caliper is used ?
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Old 05-08-2019, 12:38 AM
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Weld the knuckle and grind it smooth. Road test.
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Old 05-08-2019, 12:51 AM
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There might be new calipers available but I never noticed any in my travels. Ones at Napa are remans.
I used '96 cause that is what I saw in your profile. According to the Napa site these are available:

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/UBP8...earchIndex=App

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/UBP1...earchIndex=App

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/UBP8...earchIndex=App

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/UBP6...earchIndex=App

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/UBP8...earchIndex=App

Now is this everything you need to rebuild a caliper? Not a clue.
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Old 05-08-2019, 03:46 AM
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Originally Posted by fb97xj1 View Post
Weld the knuckle and grind it smooth. Road test.
good thing I got my MIG consumables sorted the other day

Originally Posted by Ralph77 View Post
There might be new calipers available but I never noticed any in my travels. Ones at Napa are remans.
I used '96 cause that is what I saw in your profile. According to the Napa site these are available:

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/UBP8...earchIndex=App

Now is this everything you need to rebuild a caliper? Not a clue.
Thanks, looks to be, I couldnt find it online out here in Oz

I only just noticed caliper OH is covered in the FSM

with much older vehicles, the piston gets rusty, and the seal compromised, so a rebuild near 30yrs would not be extravagant

I will just weld both sides up 1st though, systematic diagnosis, one thing at a time..i noticed they needed doing at the suspension swap, and I'm pretty sure that LH inner pad is wedging in there somehow
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Old 05-08-2019, 03:56 AM
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Originally Posted by awg View Post
Thanks, looks to be, I couldnt find it online out here in Oz

I only just noticed caliper OH is covered in the FSM

with much older vehicles, the piston gets rusty, and the seal compromised, so a rebuild near 30yrs would not be extravagant
Have to see if I can find it in my '00 FSM. Awhile back I started thinking about how calipers rust. It bugs me a little. So instead of trying to refresh them whole I was wondering about maybe taking them apart, refreshing the housing with something to ward off rust, and rebuilding them.
Did a little research on rebuilding calipers and about the parts to do so. Only reason I am aware they exist at Napa. That is about as far as I got. LOL.
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Old 05-08-2019, 04:03 AM
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Originally Posted by awg View Post
on the rearward face of the steering knuckle, where the fingers of the inside pad run, is grooved out, (about 5mm x 2mm)..I am hoping people will advise mig welding & grinding that smooth will fix the issue
Is it the top or bottom slider? I know everybody is always saying get the welder out, but I'm not seeing how that would cause problems, as it would seem to get a little sloppier rather than stickier. Plus I'm really not seeing how people can create a nice machined surface running an angle grinder, probably upside down, by eyeball, if there's extensive wear. Need to do a search on that.

I've found several cases when there are small notches. That seems pretty easy to fix:

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/x...rooves-924713/

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/wal...repair-182084/

new hose
Gets my vote.

Last edited by Dave51; 05-08-2019 at 04:30 AM. Reason: Cause I'm still thinking...
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Old 05-09-2019, 03:35 AM
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welded up those 2 grooves, and smoothed them out finishing with flap disc on grinder

we will get to find out if this is the issue, as I had to rush, and only had time to just do one side

imo, there is a definitely an issue with the metal pad finger transitioning that groove, it could hang up, and wedge the pad or caliper

i do know of someone that burned up new pads, after not fixing this

did a quick test drive, and the welded up side disc was somewhat cooler than the other side, so that is a positive indication
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Old 05-09-2019, 03:45 AM
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You can use a c-clamp to push the piston back. It should go easy and smoothly. If you have to torque on the clamp, you've got a sticky piston. The only thing that retracts the piston is the relaxing of the square-cut seal ring and if it sticks at all, the ring won't do anything.
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Old 05-09-2019, 03:46 AM
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Originally Posted by awg View Post
welded up those 2 grooves, and smoothed them out finishing with flap disc on grinder
Let's see your weld job!
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Old 05-09-2019, 05:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave51 View Post
Let's see your weld job!
gonna have to wait till I do the other side, I was rushing & swearing at the end, but did try and make sure the mig was ground flush & smooth, without removing excess off the knuckle

smooth enough you couldnt feel it with a fingertip

I would have preferred to have gone further & polished with finer grit, and will do that on the other side

must take a lot of force to grind those trenches...almost looks like they should be there, except 2 of my 96 have that wear, one doesnt

hopefully the hardness of the mig will be enough

have an IR gun, might use that to check each side
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Old 05-15-2019, 09:42 PM
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UPDATE;

havent driven a great deal, but having been monitoring the temp of each front disc with an IR gun

the vehicle seems fine, no smell, however, the temp of the disc on the "trouble" side is running ~10-20% hotter than the other side

example, after 1hr driving in traffic, jump out and read disc...at extreme outer is hottest

LH disc max 375F..RH disc 300F

corresponding % on less arduous use...ie 20min drive

this is a little confusing, as the serious issue of pads cooking seems to be resolved by welding, but I cannot explain the higher temps

the disc on both sides are a bit "ridged" on both sides

I will probably next replace the hose, check the discs for acceptable,,,after that swap cailper off my spare

a complete new caliper is $145, a complete rebuild kit $75...available & priced in Oz pesos
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