Fixed ax15 hard shift
Thought I would share here. I was having problems getting my ax15 to go into first gear and reverse when it was warm. I have seen on this and different forums about people having the same problem and never coming to a conclusion. Here is a video describing the fix and how I went about fixing it. More of a talker than a writer so it was easier to do a video over a wright up. Hope it helped somebody.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 3,700
Likes: 238
From: Groton, MA
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
I was under the impression that bleeding the master cylinder on the XJ's was a real chore and a half without professional equipment. Is that not so? This seemed to the reason to purchase a pre-bled master/slave combo unit (aside from having all new components in the clutch hydraulics, of course). I've never seen a Jeep master or slave fail personally despite having 400k and 300k original mileage Jeeps in the family.
Being that you've actually bled a clutch master cylinder, please advise.
Being that you've actually bled a clutch master cylinder, please advise.
My original cylinder was a Jeep cylinder and was leaking out of the back of it. the original did last about 230 thousand miles. With the working cylinder I received the only process that was required to bleed it was to fill it up with fluid and fill it up with the cap off and then actuate the pedal completely depressed and let your foot come completely off of the cylinder and it rapidly come to the top of its travel. Probably about 40 or so times have somebody watch to see when the bubbles stop coming up through the top. (the bubbles will get very small and miniscule but they must all be gone) Then you need to bleed it from the bleeder screw off of the slave cylinder three or four times just like how you would bleed brakes (till there is no air coming out with the fluid.) Then it should be air free. With the junk O'Reilly slave master cylinders I tried using my electric vacuum bleeder and I used my electric forced bleeder no go. along with trying the standard bleeding procedures. I am just theorizing here but I'm pretty sure the real reason why people think that these slave master cylinders are so hard to bleed is there getting the exact same cylinders that O'Reilly's is getting just under different house names and from different parts places. I used just standard hand tools with the LUK master as I did not want to run an extension cord for my electrical bleeders. so no special tools needed. Biggest thing is I hope this can help quite a few people as I often see complaints about this problem. Not really a writer so please excuse my poor grammar.
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