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Emergency brake lever help please.. (Round peg, square hole)
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
Emergency brake lever help please.. (Round peg, square hole)
So I bought my son a 8.25 from a pick and pull and it came bare bones. Trying to get the rear brakes sorted but need the emergency brake levers. I've searched online but all I find are ones with a round post for attachment to the shoe. I need them with the rectangular peg as the round ones just won't work..
Anyone know where we can order the correct ones from? (it's a 99 xj with 9 inch brakes) Thanks!
Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
You aren't finding any emergency brake levers because the XJ does not have an emergency brake. Not one model year came with an emergency brake.
I think the last car to be built with an emergency brake was before WWII.
The "e-brake" mentality has been responsible for a lot of accidents. Yank that thing during an emergency and you are almost certain to lose control. Can it help in some emergencies? Of course! But very rarely.
That doesn't mean that's what it's there for. It's far more likely to get you in more trouble.
It's a parking brake. It should be used every time you park your car.
Try searching on "parking brake levers" and you might have better success.
The saddest part is this guy being surprised that yanking on the "e-brake" caused him to lose control.
Yank that thing during an emergency and you are almost certain to lose control. Can it help in some emergencies? Of course! But very rarely.
Panic like that guy did and it's only going to end badly. There was a recall in the early 2000's, at least on UK XJ's, for the front disks separating and it happened to my dad. The parking brake was the only thing that stopped him crashing. I was told that the foot brake just gave up, I don't know if it was the ABS not knowing how to react or what.
Does the stud on the arm not fit into the hole in the shoe? It doesn't really matter that the hole isn't round. In fact square peg in square hole won't rotate like it should.
Sorry been busy, ive got a dana 35, and now im assuming ive got 9" drums i didnt even know there was different size drums for the xj, i just went what ebay said will fit mine and yea they dont, this is the ebay number and them ones say 10" ebay item number 323919897751 anyone got part numbers for a 9" non abs drum pads and brake pistons
You can't always believe what eBay sellers say. Who did you get them from? Looks like it could've been "Jeep-Chrysler" in Birmingham (I think); how/why they're allowed to trade under that name has always puzzled me - but it's a decent enough outfit, so message them with the problem, they've probably got the right ones & will be keen to avoid a refund. Failing that, just send 'em back under the eBay guarantee scheme.
Didn't know there were any non-ABS export models, must be a 2.5 thing, but pretty sure the brakes are common across the board. I bought my wheel cylinders from O'Reilly's (in Two Harbors, MN - literally next door to where I was staying: heaven!) but I'm sure I got the shoes here, but can't find any details.
You could punt round for cylinders but you might as well ask whoever you go to for the shoe, because they're both big reputable firms who will almost certainly have them, at a reasonable price.
A word of caution if/when changing wheel cylinders, you will almost certainly destroy the brake pipes, which, in itself, is just a nuisance but you will need to save the unions because the seat is quite different to any we can get. I found out too late, but fortunately knew someone who could work magic with a lathe.
A word of caution if/when changing wheel cylinders, you will almost certainly destroy the brake pipes, which, in itself, is just a nuisance but you will need to save the unions because the seat is quite different to any we can get. I found out too late, but fortunately knew someone who could work magic with a lathe.
Are you speaking of the metal lines that run along the rear axle tube ?
One of mine, I suspect may be partially blocked, and I want to replace it, and I would probably elect to either make one myself from Cunifer, or have my local brake shop make one
Did the Union rust and twist the pipe, breaking it ?
I had a hard enough time with the front ones, needing to use repeated heat cycling and my special mini alligator-jaw wrench that I use for worst case scenarios, it got the union undone, but did chew the them a bit
Hence I always use anti-seize on these unions. It helps to soak them for weeks in penetrant before trying to get them undone
Do you know if the fittings are Metric or Imperial ?
Are you speaking of the metal lines that run along the rear axle tube ? That's them
One of mine, I suspect may be partially blocked, and I want to replace it, and I would probably elect to either make one myself from Cunifer, or have my local brake shop make one I got someone I knew to make mine up, just as well because we hadn't appreciated that US unions were different, but it was something he was able to fix.
Did the Union rust and twist the pipe, breaking it ? Yes, there's just no way that after 20+ years in our climate they're not going to be rusted solid to the unions.
I had a hard enough time with the front ones, needing to use repeated heat cycling and my special mini alligator-jaw wrench that I use for worst case scenarios, it got the union undone, but did chew the them a bit Don't remember any particular problem separating the soft line from the hard one when I replaced a caliper years ago but replacing the rear soft line was a real PITA., mainly because visibility & access are so bad!
Hence I always use anti-seize on these unions. It helps to soak them for weeks in penetrant before trying to get them undone Me too. Soaking is fine if it's planned maintenance, but all too often it's urgent repairs because of (imminent) brake failure; like when when my rear soft line tore out of the metal fitting at the end where it screws into the block on the axle.
Do you know if the fittings are Metric or Imperial ?
Imperial and IIRC I had to lathe mine to give them a concave taper.
Seems you also learned the hard way that US unions are different; I made a mental note to pick up a handful on my next visit but now don't know when that'll be thanks to the DHS's post-Covid rule changes.
That's why I added a note of caution as unlikely OP will be in a position to modify our unions to fit so as to seal..