Driver Floor board rust - Need help.
#1
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
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Driver Floor board rust - Need help.
Well I checked under my rig today and my driver floor board is BAD, How would a Fix it. Its not all the way through yet but its very very soft. Can someone tell me what I need to do or take it to a shop?
#6
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Had a similar problem in a different area.
I cut out all of the rust, and I mean all of it.
A 4" hole became 14" X 12 ".
I then cut patch material out of 18 ga steel sheet metal that was 1" larger then the area being patched.
I primed and painted this patch material as well as the area around the cut out hole.
I went to a good auto supply house and bought some Automotive Seam Sealer.
It's like a solvent based silicone, you'll need a Caulk Gun to apply it.
I applied a heavy bead of Seam Sealer around the perimeter of the patch material and put it in place. I then began to Pop Rivet the patch in place.
WARNING:
Use STAINLESS STEEL Pop Rivets. ( might be hard to find - checl FASTENAL )
DO NOT USE any Silicon Sealer you buy from places like Home Depot - they contain acids and after a while will cause problems.
HINT: You could go to a junk yard, find a vehicle with good floor pans and cut out a piece big enough to make the patched needed. This way they will 'fit' well. I have done this using two tools.
#1 Battery Operated Drill
#2 Battery Operated Reciprocating Saw
I was surprised at how fast I was able to cut out patch materials for places were flat sheet steel would not work well.
EDIT: After I went out and spent $50 for a 4'X8' sheet of steel, a friend of mine called my up and offered me 4'X8' sheets of stainless ( 2-16ga and 2-18 ga ) for $200. I bought them, stainless steel floor pans sound like a cool idea!
I cut out all of the rust, and I mean all of it.
A 4" hole became 14" X 12 ".
I then cut patch material out of 18 ga steel sheet metal that was 1" larger then the area being patched.
I primed and painted this patch material as well as the area around the cut out hole.
I went to a good auto supply house and bought some Automotive Seam Sealer.
It's like a solvent based silicone, you'll need a Caulk Gun to apply it.
I applied a heavy bead of Seam Sealer around the perimeter of the patch material and put it in place. I then began to Pop Rivet the patch in place.
WARNING:
Use STAINLESS STEEL Pop Rivets. ( might be hard to find - checl FASTENAL )
DO NOT USE any Silicon Sealer you buy from places like Home Depot - they contain acids and after a while will cause problems.
HINT: You could go to a junk yard, find a vehicle with good floor pans and cut out a piece big enough to make the patched needed. This way they will 'fit' well. I have done this using two tools.
#1 Battery Operated Drill
#2 Battery Operated Reciprocating Saw
I was surprised at how fast I was able to cut out patch materials for places were flat sheet steel would not work well.
EDIT: After I went out and spent $50 for a 4'X8' sheet of steel, a friend of mine called my up and offered me 4'X8' sheets of stainless ( 2-16ga and 2-18 ga ) for $200. I bought them, stainless steel floor pans sound like a cool idea!
Last edited by KD3NE; 02-07-2011 at 10:43 AM.
#7
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Seriously? The original post is pretty well descriptive.
Bama.. you have any welding or fab skills? I decided to try and save myself a few $$ and learn some sheetmetal welding while sitting home laid-off. I found it wasnt as easy as i thought it might be. Also decided to make my own pans vs buying the premade replacements.
There are places you can get them cheaper than the google link above.
Bama.. you have any welding or fab skills? I decided to try and save myself a few $$ and learn some sheetmetal welding while sitting home laid-off. I found it wasnt as easy as i thought it might be. Also decided to make my own pans vs buying the premade replacements.
There are places you can get them cheaper than the google link above.
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#8
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Year: 1999
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Bama, you can either buy the stainless steel like suggested, or just buy a replacement panel from Team Cherokee or Quadratec like I did and replace it before the rust spreads.
Forgive the newb welding question, but I have the same problem and bought the replacement floor panel. Now, since the Cherokee is a unibody, does the gas tank have to be removed to weld the driver's side floor pan?
Forgive the newb welding question, but I have the same problem and bought the replacement floor panel. Now, since the Cherokee is a unibody, does the gas tank have to be removed to weld the driver's side floor pan?
#9
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Year: 1991
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I will have to custom make mine because the rust on the driver side goes from the the floor board up into the hump where the center console is. I will take pictures tomorrow if weather is decent when I get off and there isnt snow on the ground.
#11
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Year: 1991
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Wow, lots of good info here, many thanks guys!
I have a similar problem, both driver and pasenger front floor pans need to be replaced.
rusted out due to water leakdown from door seals. Soooooooo before I spend the bucks puttin in new pans, which I can get from Rock auto, I have to replace the door seals.
I have other issues to tackle first, but is nice to know someone has similar situation and would appreciate some posts on how you solve your problem ya?
thanks,
cpnwrench
I have a similar problem, both driver and pasenger front floor pans need to be replaced.
rusted out due to water leakdown from door seals. Soooooooo before I spend the bucks puttin in new pans, which I can get from Rock auto, I have to replace the door seals.
I have other issues to tackle first, but is nice to know someone has similar situation and would appreciate some posts on how you solve your problem ya?
thanks,
cpnwrench
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