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Does this sound like a bad u-joint to you?

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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 03:39 PM
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Default Does this sound like a bad u-joint to you?

Hey Guys,

I noticed some "yanking" in the steering wheel (very subtle) the other day and decided to do a little snooping around. Found what I'm fairly certain is a bad u-joint on my driver side axle. What do you guys think?


Two questions...
  1. How long will it last? I plant to fix it this week, but I work full time and have a 3 month old kid, so finding some free time is getting harder these days.
  2. How hard of a fix is it?

Thanks in advance!
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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 06:31 PM
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Yes. The u-joint should have NO play in it.
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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by bigvig
Yes. The u-joint should have NO play in it.
Ok, I thought so. Thanks! Guess I will be fixing it soon.
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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 08:19 PM
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If the u-joint is binding up I strongly recommend that you stop driving the vehicle until it is repaired. What if it you couldn't make a turn or were stuck in a turn? You need a 13mm 12 point socket for the hub bolts, and a 36mm axle nut (can rent at most parts stores), and a u-joint and some hammers and sockets to beat the old joint out and the new joint in. A ball joint press can be used to press the new joint in as well (also a free rental at most parts stores). Be very careful not to drag the axle shaft inside the tube when you put it back in because any crud can interfere with the differential inner seal causing a fluid leak or worse (like bearing damage). Spicer 5-760X joints are factory and are preferred for their strength and longevity. Car Quest usually stocks them. In a pinch you can get an u-joint almost anywhere.
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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 08:46 PM
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Moderately difficult. Don't remember how long it took because I changed both shaft ujoints and inner axle seals at the same time. Here's what mine sounded like before I changed them.

When they are bad you can hear them clunking around turns constantly. Mine clunked then started clunking and grinding.

Last edited by MonacaYankee; Dec 15, 2014 at 08:49 PM.
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Old Dec 19, 2014 | 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by MonacaYankee
Moderately difficult. Don't remember how long it took because I changed both shaft ujoints and inner axle seals at the same time. Here's what mine sounded like before I changed them. Bad unjoints - YouTube

When they are bad you can hear them clunking around turns constantly. Mine clunked then started clunking and grinding.
Thanks for the info and video. Mine don't seem to be that bad yet, but I'm not trying to find out when they'll get there!
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Old Dec 19, 2014 | 03:19 PM
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I strongly recommend replacing both u-joints when one needs replaced.
Same with wheel bearings.
When you remove the wheel-bearings, hold it in your hand and turn the bearing back and forth. If you feel any grit or grinding, or unusual resistance, replace them.

Before attempting this project, familiarize yourself with the entire process by reading write-ups and step by step instructions.

As with many jobs, there is a right way and a wrong way, an easy way and more difficult way. Also tricks, like using a deep socket to 'break' the hub free after bolts are loosened (Socket sits on hub bolt, turn steering wheel and socket contacts steering knuckle and forces hub to unseat).
Use only Spicer u-joints, this is what came with your axle from factory..

Last edited by SteveMongr; Dec 19, 2014 at 03:23 PM.
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Old Dec 19, 2014 | 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by SteveMongr
I strongly recommend replacing both u-joints when one needs replaced.
Same with wheel bearings.
When you remove the wheel-bearings, hold it in your hand and turn the bearing back and forth. If you feel any grit or grinding, or unusual resistance, replace them.

Before attempting this project, familiarize yourself with the entire process by reading write-ups and step by step instructions.

As with many jobs, there is a right way and a wrong way, an easy way and more difficult way. Also tricks, like using a deep socket to 'break' the hub free after bolts are loosened (Socket sits on hub bolt, turn steering wheel and socket contacts steering knuckle and forces hub to unseat).
Use only Spicer u-joints, this is what came with your axle from factory..
Thanks SteveMongr! I had actually been wondering what else I should replace while the thing is apart.

Any suggestions on a good write up on the subject? I have found a few along with some videos on YouTube, but wasn't sure if there was a "holy grail" write up out there.
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