Does this sound like a bad u-joint to you?
#1
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Does this sound like a bad u-joint to you?
Hey Guys,
I noticed some "yanking" in the steering wheel (very subtle) the other day and decided to do a little snooping around. Found what I'm fairly certain is a bad u-joint on my driver side axle. What do you guys think?
Two questions...
Thanks in advance!
I noticed some "yanking" in the steering wheel (very subtle) the other day and decided to do a little snooping around. Found what I'm fairly certain is a bad u-joint on my driver side axle. What do you guys think?
Two questions...
- How long will it last? I plant to fix it this week, but I work full time and have a 3 month old kid, so finding some free time is getting harder these days.
- How hard of a fix is it?
Thanks in advance!
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#4
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If the u-joint is binding up I strongly recommend that you stop driving the vehicle until it is repaired. What if it you couldn't make a turn or were stuck in a turn? You need a 13mm 12 point socket for the hub bolts, and a 36mm axle nut (can rent at most parts stores), and a u-joint and some hammers and sockets to beat the old joint out and the new joint in. A ball joint press can be used to press the new joint in as well (also a free rental at most parts stores). Be very careful not to drag the axle shaft inside the tube when you put it back in because any crud can interfere with the differential inner seal causing a fluid leak or worse (like bearing damage). Spicer 5-760X joints are factory and are preferred for their strength and longevity. Car Quest usually stocks them. In a pinch you can get an u-joint almost anywhere.
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Moderately difficult. Don't remember how long it took because I changed both shaft ujoints and inner axle seals at the same time. Here's what mine sounded like before I changed them.
When they are bad you can hear them clunking around turns constantly. Mine clunked then started clunking and grinding.
When they are bad you can hear them clunking around turns constantly. Mine clunked then started clunking and grinding.
Last edited by MonacaYankee; 12-15-2014 at 08:49 PM.
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Moderately difficult. Don't remember how long it took because I changed both shaft ujoints and inner axle seals at the same time. Here's what mine sounded like before I changed them. Bad unjoints - YouTube
When they are bad you can hear them clunking around turns constantly. Mine clunked then started clunking and grinding.
When they are bad you can hear them clunking around turns constantly. Mine clunked then started clunking and grinding.
#7
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I strongly recommend replacing both u-joints when one needs replaced.
Same with wheel bearings.
When you remove the wheel-bearings, hold it in your hand and turn the bearing back and forth. If you feel any grit or grinding, or unusual resistance, replace them.
Before attempting this project, familiarize yourself with the entire process by reading write-ups and step by step instructions.
As with many jobs, there is a right way and a wrong way, an easy way and more difficult way. Also tricks, like using a deep socket to 'break' the hub free after bolts are loosened (Socket sits on hub bolt, turn steering wheel and socket contacts steering knuckle and forces hub to unseat).
Use only Spicer u-joints, this is what came with your axle from factory..
Same with wheel bearings.
When you remove the wheel-bearings, hold it in your hand and turn the bearing back and forth. If you feel any grit or grinding, or unusual resistance, replace them.
Before attempting this project, familiarize yourself with the entire process by reading write-ups and step by step instructions.
As with many jobs, there is a right way and a wrong way, an easy way and more difficult way. Also tricks, like using a deep socket to 'break' the hub free after bolts are loosened (Socket sits on hub bolt, turn steering wheel and socket contacts steering knuckle and forces hub to unseat).
Use only Spicer u-joints, this is what came with your axle from factory..
Last edited by SteveMongr; 12-19-2014 at 03:23 PM.
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I strongly recommend replacing both u-joints when one needs replaced.
Same with wheel bearings.
When you remove the wheel-bearings, hold it in your hand and turn the bearing back and forth. If you feel any grit or grinding, or unusual resistance, replace them.
Before attempting this project, familiarize yourself with the entire process by reading write-ups and step by step instructions.
As with many jobs, there is a right way and a wrong way, an easy way and more difficult way. Also tricks, like using a deep socket to 'break' the hub free after bolts are loosened (Socket sits on hub bolt, turn steering wheel and socket contacts steering knuckle and forces hub to unseat).
Use only Spicer u-joints, this is what came with your axle from factory..
Same with wheel bearings.
When you remove the wheel-bearings, hold it in your hand and turn the bearing back and forth. If you feel any grit or grinding, or unusual resistance, replace them.
Before attempting this project, familiarize yourself with the entire process by reading write-ups and step by step instructions.
As with many jobs, there is a right way and a wrong way, an easy way and more difficult way. Also tricks, like using a deep socket to 'break' the hub free after bolts are loosened (Socket sits on hub bolt, turn steering wheel and socket contacts steering knuckle and forces hub to unseat).
Use only Spicer u-joints, this is what came with your axle from factory..
Any suggestions on a good write up on the subject? I have found a few along with some videos on YouTube, but wasn't sure if there was a "holy grail" write up out there.
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