TwoXJS

Hey, guys. I've been trying to fix my turn signals that stopped working after installing a new radio. All I did was fix some broken wires (I made sure they were all connected right) and put the new radio in. Then they stopped working right afterwards.

I measured 11.5 volts at the turn signal flasher location on the fuse block under the dash, so I assume that's all okay. I tried the same in the fuse slot for them, but the readings were all over the place. I''m not sure if there's a specific way to test, so please enlighten me if there is.

My next thought is the combination switch in the steering column. The brights and wipers work fine, but could that still be a problem? I need to rent a lockplate tool tomorrow unless there something else I could use. I could really use some help with this, guys! It's my DD, so I'm worried about getting pulled over for not using signals.

Radi

Do they stay on solid (no flash) or do they not light up at at all? Do the hazards work?

TwoXJS

Hazards work, turns don't even light up a bit.

TwoXJS

Anybody, please?

freegdr

Try switching hazard flasher for turn signal flasher yet ?

F1Addict

Okay, try this:

Find this plug under the steering column (near the knee bolster)...



First, make sure that the two connectors are firmly plugged together. Now, locate the light green and black wires, they're right next to each other on the left side of the wide connector (in the photo above, they would be the second and third wires from the left). Use your multimeter to confirm that the light green wire is +12v. If yes, turn your ignition to the ON position and use a paper clip or a small piece of wire to jump the light green and black wires. With the jumper in place, test your blinkers and report back.

F1Addict

P.S. Are we working on your '89 or '93?

For anyone else who wants to take a stab at this, here's some background on the issue Cody is having...

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/sud...p-fast-182375/

F1Addict

I guess I should explain some of this. I think it might be your ignition switch. Especially if your blinkers were working fine before. The picture I posted above is the junction of your multi-function switch (the wide connector on the top) and harness (the smaller connector on the bottom). The jumper I suggested will bypass your ignition switch. Here is a breakdown (the best I could figure out) of each wire on the multi-function side (from left to right):

Orange/white tracer: Unknown function, possibly ground.
Light Green: +12v constant provides power to hazard switch
Black: +12v Ignition provides power to multi-function switch
Light Blue: Left blinker (unknown front or back)
Dark Blue: Right blinker (unknown front or back)
Brown: Hazard
Purple: Left blinker (unknown front or back)
Yellow: Hazard
Dark Green: Right blinker (unknown front or back)
White: Hazard

I'm guessing that if you check the black wire with the key in the ON position it will read Zero volts. Just a guess.

TwoXJS

Free, I have tried switching them out, but still nothing. That was one of the first things I did.

F1, I'm gonna print all this out and start checking tomorrow. I really appreciate the info that I probably wouldn't of found on my own....I've been googling all day long....At least now I've got a good place to start.

EDIT: It's the 93 here.

F1Addict

Good luck, man. You will need to remove the knee bolster to have free access to that plug. If you've not done it before, don't forget the screw behind the ashtray and to disconnect the TCU that's mounted to the knee bolster on the passenger side.

Edit: Your '93 is a manual, it probably doesn't have a TCU so, never mind that part.

TwoXJS

Well, I tried what you said to do just now. i heard something constantlly clicking on the fuse panel if i wiggled the paper clip around and i assume it was the flasher? Turned the key on and tried the signals, but nothing on the cluster or turn lights outside. I'm at a loss right now....

F1Addict

But did you test for voltage at the wires I said? With the key in the ON position you should have 12v at both the light green and black wires.

This is just the first step, don't give up.

TwoXJS

Oh, no I didn't....Durr....Should I probe them both at the same time or use a ground for each one?

F1Addict

The next test I would like you to do is to turn the key to the ON position and, using your multi-meter, check for 12 volts on both the black wire and the light green wire, without the jumper. You may use a chassis ground for now.

TwoXJS

Okay, I'll get on that in a few minutes. So, I want 12V at both wires....What would it mean if I don't, just out of curiosity?