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Diving Deeper Into Turn Signals Issue

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Old Nov 14, 2013 | 06:54 PM
  #16  
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Alright, so the black wire has 12.2V, but green only has 50-60 MILLIVOLTS! That's way too low, correct? That's with key on for both.
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Old Nov 14, 2013 | 07:00 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by TwoXJS
Okay, I'll get on that in a few minutes. So, I want 12V at both wires....What would it mean if I don't, just out of curiosity?
Because the black wire is responsible for providing power to your blinkers it would be very telling if it wasn't energized with the key ON. If it does not have power we can trace it back to the fuse and find out why. If it does have power we can take a systematic approach to find out why it's not getting to your blinkers.
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Old Nov 14, 2013 | 07:04 PM
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It's possible that we blew the fuse for the hazards with the jumper test. With the key OFF, see if your hazard lights still work.
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Old Nov 14, 2013 | 07:06 PM
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Yep, hazards still work. I just tried again with the key off and same results, only the green kept climbing in mV up past 100. Never got into actual volts, though.
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Old Nov 14, 2013 | 07:10 PM
  #20  
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This is why Jeeps are so "fun"! Give me a few minutes to go pull my knee bolster so we can be doing these tests at the same time.
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Old Nov 14, 2013 | 07:38 PM
  #21  
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With the key in the ON position, jump the light green wire and the dark blue wire, this should illuminate your right front blinker. It won't blink, it will just turn on. Let me know if this happens.
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Old Nov 14, 2013 | 07:54 PM
  #22  
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Jumped them, but nothing
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Old Nov 14, 2013 | 08:03 PM
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Okay. I know this seems like bad news but it's actually good. We now know why your blinkers aren't working. That light green wire should be powered, now we just need to figure out why it's not or find a way to get power to it. I'll be back in a few minutes with a plan of attack.
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Old Nov 14, 2013 | 08:11 PM
  #24  
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Sounds good to me. If I'm correct, that green wire is constant 12V, right? If so, could I run a wire off the battery to that wire and splice it in?
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Old Nov 14, 2013 | 08:19 PM
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Just for the heck of it, use your multimeter to check for 12 volts on the harness side of the connector, the wire that corresponds with the light green should be a red with a black tracer. I want to eliminate the connector as the culprit.
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Old Nov 14, 2013 | 08:23 PM
  #26  
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Yep, 12.3 at that wire
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Old Nov 14, 2013 | 08:28 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by TwoXJS
Yep, 12.3 at that wire
Oooo! Progress. Pull the connector apart and see if there is an obvious reason for power not being transmitted from the harness to the multi-function side of the plug (light green wire). As a temporary measure, you could use a small piece of wire to jumper from that red wire with a black tracer on the harness side to the light green wire on the multi-function switch side. At least for the purpose of testing.

Let me know what happens.
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Old Nov 14, 2013 | 08:51 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by TwoXJS
Sounds good to me. If I'm correct, that green wire is constant 12V, right? If so, could I run a wire off the battery to that wire and splice it in?
Correct, the light green wire should be a constant 12v at all times.
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Old Nov 14, 2013 | 08:58 PM
  #29  
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Still nothing....Had a wire going directly between them, but nada. Took the connector apart, but didn't see anything wrong other then the green wire pin was a bit loose.
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Old Nov 14, 2013 | 09:07 PM
  #30  
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Just out of curiosity, if you jump the black wire to the light blue wire (right next to it) with the key in the ON position, does it sound your horn?
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