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disk brake on 89 jeep cherokee

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Old 09-09-2009, 04:23 AM
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Angry disk brake on 89 jeep cherokee

we have an 89 jp cherokee and the disk brake lights are on inside the jeep we bought a relay switch thinking it needed a new pump relay switch and the lights are still on stating the brakes need work so we bleed the front the light went off for a few minutes then we bleed the other side and light still on then went to bleed driver side rear and cant bleed them nothing comes out, went online to look up what i could and found out that the rear brakes on jeep cherokee 89 limited edition are one line so should i just bleed the passenger side? how do i get the lights to go off the brakes are good? i cant seem to bleed the rear is there a special way i should know about?
Old 09-09-2009, 08:25 AM
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Do you have ABS?
Old 09-09-2009, 09:32 AM
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If it's the yellow light it's abs malfunctioning, if it's the red light it's low brake fluid or bad brake fluid level gauge.
Old 09-10-2009, 05:31 PM
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thanks for the reply sorry i couldnt asnswer any faster was having password trouble, the problem is that when he tries to bleed the rear driver brake nothing comes out the pedal dosent go to the floor as it should when people are bleeding them the pedal went to the floor when we did the front brakes. the light says disk brake and it is yellow and there is a top light that is red and it says brakes. they all went off for a short minute as he bleed the front ones then they came back on the problem is why cant we bleed the rear brakes???? any ideas on that? is there only one side to bleed?
Old 09-10-2009, 05:39 PM
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You have ABS.The line is clogged somewhere.
Bleed the line by unscrewing the single flexible that goes from the frame to the axle, under the Jeep.
Bleed first at the frame and then at the axle, according to where fluid comes out you will know where the clogged part is and replace.
Old 09-11-2009, 02:52 PM
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ok thanks we will give it a try this week-end he has sat and sun off.. hope it works, just couldnt figure out why we couldnt bleed rear at all. let you know sunday how it went thanks for now thanks alot
Old 09-13-2009, 05:51 PM
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no brake fluid coming out of master cylender, the antlock light comes on parking brake comes on have no rear brakes have front barkes booster motor comes on and stays on Bleed brakes at master cylender and there is no fluid coming out, there is plenty of fluid. so if plugged somewhere how do i unplugg it? and where? when i put the parking brake on the brake light goes out odd but then when i put it back down the red brake light goes back on and the yellow ck abs antilock yellow light comes on so if it is clogged were do i ck???? thanks getting frustrated even bought a chilton book that says dont work on these at home yet have no choice. please any help or advice would be great i have to get to work no work no money no car no work eeeek
Old 09-13-2009, 06:09 PM
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WOWOWOWOW, slow down my friend. Breath. (and put some punctuation here and there)
You are saying that when you unscrew the brake lines at the master cylinder there is no fluid coming out? Do you have somebody pushing the pedal while you do this or are you doing it by yourself?
The red light is probably the parking brake switch not working properly. Not so important.
Get the fluid coming out from every junction starting from the master cylinder down to the slave cylinders in the rear.
Be sure to unscrew the lines fully from the master, (don't force them if they don't turn) and have somebody keeping the pedal pressed while you do this.
Old 09-14-2009, 12:20 AM
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Ok sorry about the bad writting, It is that this thing is been going on now for about 3 weeks and I first was told it is the auxilary relay brake switch. So we went and got one, this switch keeps the brakes from not pumping all the time, well that wasnt problem. yes I am at the brakes inside jeep as it is running, husband is then trying to get fluid out of rear brakes nothing is happening. When i pump them up and he tries to relese pressure from the from the master cylender nothing happens, the brakes dont go down as they should like they would when you do the front. The rear just sits there as if nothing is wrong. He called a friend of his and he suggested that he buy a new master cylender? do you think that is wise? i hate to see that money spent since we just got a relay pump like i said. maybe the master cylender is out since the brakes did smell like they were burning about 3 weeks ago when this all started. It had a smell as if the ER brakes were on, yet they werent. so hope this makes a little more sense to you. Sorry about all this i am just so upset because my nice little cavalier is being used and i need my car, so the sooner his jeep is fixed the happier the little wife (ME) will be
Old 09-14-2009, 03:07 AM
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AAhh, sorry, I didn't recognize you were a lady.
Lets get this jeep to brake properly.
Just to be clear: the master cilinder is the one where you fill in the brake fluid, and has (should have) three lines on it.
Two go to the front wheels and one goes to the rear. Somewhere in the middle, actually very close to the master cilinder, is the ABS module, with a bunch of lines going in and out and the proportioning valve that regulates the amount of fluid to the rear.
Now I have never heard of an auxiliary relay brake switch, sounds like a part of the ABS or something added for trailer towing purposes.
Anyway if it has been replaced it should be ok.
You don't need to do the bleeding with the engine running, you should pump the pedal a few times to have it hard and then apply a constant pressure when your husband opens the lines.
Start from bleeding the line (identify the one that goes to the rear) at the master cylinder in the engine compartment, then bleed at the ABS module, then at the proportioning valve, at the flexible under the jeep and last at the slave cilinders behind the drums.
There must be some fluid coming out from somewhere, the prop. valve could be clogged as well.
The burnt smell probably came from the rear, since the pads don't release the press being a cosequence of the clogged lines somewhere.
Old 09-14-2009, 03:36 PM
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ok my husband tried to get to the proportioning valve and cant get it out. it is his car i am just relaying what he tells me, the relay switch is what turns the aux pump on and off. well anyway he called a friend and the friend said, (he is a sorta mechanic) that my husband should buy a new master cylender, I am hoping that that is the problem. We cant get to the valve, he tried all kinds of tools to undo it and none would work. that makes me as a women worried cuz if it isnt the master cylender and he buys a new one and puts it on wouldnt the problem still be there?? he needs to know. If you could answer this as soon as possible because his friend is coming over tomorrow am. thanks sorry about all the panic.
Old 09-15-2009, 01:43 AM
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hi just wondered if anyone has had time to read my post yet? I do know your all very busy and i am not the only one here. i will ck back later tonight your all probably in bed by now. thanks again.
Old 09-15-2009, 01:48 AM
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if he gets a new master cylender wouldnt the problem still be there? just curious? I wanted to let you know this is a jeep cher. 89 limited edition if that makes any difference at all.
Old 09-15-2009, 05:18 AM
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Originally Posted by thunder55
ok my husband tried to get to the proportioning valve and cant get it out. it is his car i am just relaying what he tells me, the relay switch is what turns the aux pump on and off. well anyway he called a friend and the friend said, (he is a sorta mechanic) that my husband should buy a new master cylender, I am hoping that that is the problem. We cant get to the valve, he tried all kinds of tools to undo it and none would work. that makes me as a women worried cuz if it isnt the master cylender and he buys a new one and puts it on wouldnt the problem still be there?? he needs to know. If you could answer this as soon as possible because his friend is coming over tomorrow am. thanks sorry about all the panic.
Sorry for being late... got to work too and when it's evening there it's late night here..
If the pedal does not sink slowly or stay down then the master cylinder should be ok.
The proportioning valve has probably rusted screws that won't come off. Spray some WD40 or similiar on it and use some vise grips to unscrew the lines. There is a special tool for the lines, a sort of "C" wrench that looks like this:
Old 09-15-2009, 06:27 PM
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i know this sounds crazy but could you show by any chance a picture of the line your speaking off?? maybe he isnt looking right, he took two off which were the front and that got some fluid out then like you said there is one for the rear, and that one dosent get anyfluid out, he seems to still think it is master cylender, i am not a mechanic yet i beleive you, so if you could show a pic if that wouldnt be to much trouble it would really help alot. he called off his friend for today which is good, but when he comes over firday i am worried cuz my husband just got laid -off he is a boilermaker at the portland ship yards and the work has run out so spending undo money is scary for now. hope you can show me a pic the place we are working on is by the master cylender but they arent flexable they are more of a light metal that bends slightly. thanks wait for your reply


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