I havent gotten him to read this yet so i did print out what i could about olblue write up, anyway one question tho, I asked in one of my posts about some computer codes,and was told that there arent any codes or computer codes in the jeep. Yet when i read about the write up there and it shows that there are some computer codes??? like Bendix antilock brakes DTC codes.

800 no voltage
801 no serial data from ECM
802 no signal ect................ so what are these code? could he take the jeep to some place and they would tell him the code? or no?

 

The Renix ECU is pre obd and does not throw any codes.
Those are internal fault codes of the Bendix control module that can be read only with a dedicated Bendix scan tool that is very very difficult to find nowadays. What you can do is remove the ABS BAT fuse from the fuse panel for ten seconds to clear the codes, light should come off and if you're lucky they were only false codes and it will stay off.

 

ok guys i am back and need help, My husband did read the write up from OlBlue, and he went out and pumped the brakes 40 times so the accumulator wouldn't have any pressure, When he went to bleed, He had the car ignition off as said, and then he bleed from the accumulator and nothing came out?? he wants to know if the accumulator or booster switch could be bad? because as he tries to bleed from the accumulator, as olblue suggested there is no fluid coming out to bleed, and yes there is plenty of fresh fluid put in the reservoir. Also he wants to know if the master cylinder is broke would it cause all these problems?

So could the booster pressure switch be broke? and how do you find out? he did pull fuse from fuse box and the ER brake light still is on and the ABS yellow light is still on. waiting for more help. He said that when the engine runs and he bleeds from the accumulator then the fluid goes way down from the resavor so that makes him think the accumulator isnt giving pressure like it should or is it the master cylinder? Help

 

I hope you got my question I dont see it on here? if not let me know ok? anyway i did say something about him taking the fuse's off and the lights on the dash where still on? well he meant that he took the fuse's out to try and see if he could reset something on the computer, but i told him that you all said there isn't a computer system on this jeep, yet i did read on olblue's write up about some brake codes which a mechanic would be able to find out? how come a place like a jeep brake place wouldnt be able to tell us the code and then we could fix it ourself? probably cuz they wouldn't make money right?

 

ok i found my write up and it is posted here, he did try the fuse code and the lights still stay on, so it isn't a false code , Well hope you can shed some light on the rest of my help letter

 

I hope someone can reply to this soon because we think that it is the accumulator switch? hope to hear from ya today>>??

 

I've never seen, much less worked on the Bendix 9 system. So I'm sorry but I have no info on it beyond what was in that link.
I thought that one of these Cherokee Gurus would know something about this and helped straighten this problem out before now.

 

ok here is what hubby has done so far. ready?? here goes. Replaced front and rear brakes you know all this. yesterday we went to try and bleed the actuator as you said, removed boost pressure switch and did an electrical check and it does not shut off? when you push in the metal pin. Pulled the anti lock bat fuse for 30 seconds the replaced it no change. There does not appear to be any pressure in th accumulator and pressure switch. So any ideas about this? is When we bleed the from the accumulator there was no fluid coming out at all. then when the car was started you could see the fluid reservoir get lower and then you could bleed from it then, so the question is do we need a new accumulator? or the switch? any help soon would be wonderful fantic could you reply soon?????????? please

 

These codes refer to the fact that the ABS module does not have battery voltage on pin 4 . probable cause is blown ABS fuse or open in circuit between fuse and module. Lack of ground on pin 27 will also cause these codes.
Also I read a few pages back that you introduced trans fluid into the brake system.....if this is the case you are beating a dead horse. Brake system components use rubber seals which when in contact with oil (motor or transfluid) will begin to swell 2 to 3 times their normal size rendering things like wheel cylinders ,brake hoses and proportioning valves and master cylinders inoperative. plugs them right up so to speak.
Once oil is in the system there is little you can do to remove it, other than replacing all components with new. There is also a write up on how to convert over to a conventional booster/master cly system and lay the Bendix 9 to rest.

 

ok he said that he caught this tyranny fluid prior to it being completely used and emptied it out before it was driven, Not sure if he is telling the truth. Yet i did ask a while ago if the accumulator could be the problem?? and nobody answered this could you please go back to the post i wrote about the accumulator problem? and see if any of that would be the cause?? thanks i hope you reply soon.

 

Can someone please answer me about the actuator??motor?

 

I would if I could...
Try sending fantic238 (Stephano) a Private Message.>->https://www.cherokeeforum.com/members/fantic238-7240/

 

What does that mean? specify
If it is half desmantled with the press switch out how can there be press. You must put everything back together and start the eng. to check.
yes that's right, car on, press up, bleed, ok...
might investigate more on the switch.

 

******, those codes are not hers, she copied them from the list in other thread to make an example. Do you know if there are still scanner tools to read those codes and where she could find one?

 

I removed the boost pressure switch, to do a electrical ck, I used a low voltage battery from a flash light, there is a rod coming out of the switch and when the rod is all the way out, the switch is on, When i push the rod all the way in on the switch the switch is still on.All this while out of the car. Just to test. I take it that means the switch isn't working? would that cause the computer to register a system failure? if the switch isn't working properly? After this question is answered and if it may be the cause, then we can fix, If not how do we modify the system to remove the Bendix system all together? is there another master cylinder that i can just put in its place? without a lot of modifications. He wants to know that if it isn't this problem or if it could be, and we try to fix it YEAH!!
but if it isn't how or what could he look at to make the brake system like a normal system where we dont have to mess with this ABS junk anymore?.

Also the accumulator doesn't seem to get any pressure, remember when olblue in the write up it had said that the brakes need to be pumped with ignition off 25 or more times? then bleed? well there isn't any thing to bleed there is no pressure in it at all.that is one other issue.thanks for taking the time to help because I would hate to see him drive it as is.REALLY.Like we said it will bleed when car is on but it wont bleed when car is off, as said in the write up to bleed while car isn't running.so the accumulator or switch must be the problem do you think??