Firestorm500

Would you let him wire up your Jeep?

I like Pioneer speakers. Easy to find and good quality.

Our Jeeps do not have concert hall acoustics.

I ARE EL1TE

My dad is an electrician

cmartin2112

This doesnt make since to me... How do you get better sound out of a speaker that cant deliver sound in all ranges?

Edit: OP are your new speakers phased correctly?

Firestorm500

Show that post to him.

chipmaker

It's just my opinion. I have owned several sets of 3-ways and they always had way too much treble, hence the over powering hiss-chic sound. If I tuned down the trebel to the level that my eyes didnt twich at every high note the sound seemed to flat. So I bought myself a set of componets and a small amp and was amazed at the tight solid bass and crisp yet not obnoxious highs. And again I say this is my honest opinion. But just a little food for thought. How many high end/ competition systems have you seen that used multi-way speakers rather than a seperate driver and tweet?

cropduster

I put a pair of Boston Acoustics 2 ways and put them in my front doors. They sound OK but I was expecting more from them. I paid less than $55 for them. I put some Walmart Scosche brand in the rear roof portals. I think it doesn't matter what quality you put there they will sound like ****.
I would get decent Pioneers for the front if I were to do it over.

Firestorm500

Quote: "I would get decent Pioneers for the front if I were to do it over."

Just as I said in post #16. I have learned by experience.

crdude

Im rocking some rockford Prime 6x9"s and two kenwood 12"s that are pushed by a JL 500/1.. The subs were cheaper ones, 400rms each. I was looking more for SQ then SPL and these seemed to do the trick. I'v run memphis power refrence 12"s (these bumped HARD!) , JL w3v3 12"s, MTX 5500's in band pass box, JL 8"s ect. I still like these cheaper kenwood 12"s. lol.


I would like some door speakers, they are stock and you cant hear them at all over the 6x9"s that are in the back of my jeep. But it is still miles ahead of the stock system. The 6x9's were cheap, I think you can get a pair for around $50 off the internet, but then you have to get boxs for them or find a place to install them (heard of people putting them in the rear hatch before)

cropduster

Yeah, you are correct. A decent pair of Pioneers off eBay for a fair price is tough to beat. I've had good luck with Kenwood car audio stuff too.Seems you can't go wrong with Pioneer though.

Zack92MJ

I cut my front doors holes wider to fit 6x9s and I will not go back to the factory size ones ever

Firestorm500

I've used Pioneer all the way through. Head unit, speakers, subs, amps. Very satisfied. Multiple vehicles.

saltysandy

Singles in the front doors, 2 ways in the rear of the roof...run them direct off the head unit...then get a nice sized amp and run two 8s in the back door and a single what ever size you want in the trunk in a sealed box... you will never hear anything like it... it's amazing, if only I can figure out the first time I turn the wipers on (aka wash the windshield) the sound cuts for a split second

Turbo X_J

I don't think you could, sounds permanent to me, lol.

macgyver35

HOL. E. CRAP!

My head just exploded. 301 "words", yet, zero commas, only 3 capital letters, and 2 periods. That's got to be some kind of record...
I stopped counting spelling errors on line 2 when I ran out of fingers and toes.

We appreciate your enthusiasm, but in this case I don't think posting this much information by phone is the best idea you've had all day. "A" for effort, though, even if you do have some technically inaccurate info.

To the OP... I have a number of forum posts revolving around car stereo information; the acoustic and electrical math behind it, and some general helpful hints. Feel free to look at some of them. While I work as an IT Consultant now, I spent a few years in my 20's (back in the early 90's) working at car stereo shops, and as part of my current job I help design home theater systems, conference room audio/video systems, whole-house audio, and I have high-end components in my own home. I've learned a thing or two.

In a nutshell:

1) Go with any quality two-way 6.5" speaker that will fit in the doors without interfering with the windows. Personally, I used Polk db651's in the front doors (db521's in the rear soundbar) and they sound pretty good. Fosgate, Kicker, Pioneer, etc. are all acceptable. I personally stay away from Sony products. Long story...

2) 3-way and 4-way speakers are usually just crap, and more marketing schtick than anything. The extra mid/high drivers do nothing to effect, positive or negative, any bass the speaker puts out, but they usually just make the whole thing sound "shrill" or "ringy". A good two-way with a quality 3/4" to 1" tweeter will do fine. Soft dome tweeters tend to have a warmer more natural sound, but other types perform very well. And because a car sees extremes of temperature, humidity, vibration, and lots of door slamming, more durable tweeter materials are usually used for car speakers. Silk/composite, mylar, and aluminum domed tweeters are common, and are usually preferred in that order.

3) You won't ever get any kind of appreciable bass from aftermarket speakers in a Cherokee. It actually has very little do do with the speakers themselves. The problem is that a Cherokee is like a metal toolbox on wheels. In particular, the doors have sheet metal that resonates a lot, and there are tons of open holes and no real fixed volume of air in which the speakers can operate. Using Dynamat on the whole inner door skin can help. A little. The factory speakers were mechanically and electrically "loose", meaning that the cone moved easily so it would put out some appreciable amount of bass at relatively little power. Notice I sound amount, as in VOLUME of bass, not QUALITY of bass. Some people think pushing more power to the door speakers will increase bass, and it will, to a point, but it will also increasingly sound like crap. The air in the "full of holes" doors just doesn't provide a great acoustic environment for the speakers, and throwing more watts at them just results in sloppy bass, distorted mid-range, and short-lived speakers.

4) For any kind of rich, full bass, you're going to need a sub. It doesn't have to be huge. An 8" is plenty. Personally, I used a 6.5" Kicker CompVT in the rear cubby and it is great.

Again, check out some of my posts if you want to educate yourself. Or, you can take the shortcut and just use the same components I did and eliminate the guesswork.

Zack92MJ

Hahahahahaha good call.