Yep seems I am 53 years going on 29...

 

well, hopefully we'll both be going on 29 for many years to come....

 

Yep, when it comes to Renix, I don't question Cruiser. Well, I guess I did here. LoL.

I was replacing the cap/rotor anyways. Just figured I'd do it since it was on his list of things to do.

 

Can someone explain to me or point me in the direction where I can learn more about this Cruiser Renix tip and the "science" behind it? I am not a complete newb, but I am having trouble understanding why renix 4.0's would have top dead center be off, and how this tip will correct it. I have read cruiser's distributor tip a few times, but I think I need some more knowledge of the inner workings of the distributor and everything so I can understand what I am doing once I get around to this tip. (still working on tips 1-5, but I'll get there)

 

Spark advance can go up past 25* at higher RPM. You need the rotor tip as far ahead of the electrode in the cap as possible, (and still work), (at idle), so when the ECU advances the spark timing at higher RPM, the spark can still "reach" the electrode in the dizy.

If the rotor tip were say, right on, or behind the electrode at idle, when the ECU sent an advanced spark, the rotor would be too far away from the electrode. Hope that helps!

 

Whoa!!!

The ECU tells the coil when to fire. The distributors were indexed incorrectly and non-adjustable. The problem was, when the ECU said "fire" to the coil, the rotor was many times not even close to the dizzy terminal, resulting in high secondary ignition resistance. Has NOTHING to do with timing.

 

The ECU advances the spark at higher RPM. If the rotor tip was even with, or EDIT! "Behind!"the electrode when the early spark came, there would be trouble. That's why it's set at the trailing edge, (leaving the electrode), static. (or at idle). 25* on the crank would be 12.5* there, is the only reason it works at all.

Gonna' take some 100 proof convincen' to change my mind on that!

(some early vac advance, would rotate the whole dizzy)

 

Ah. I was expecting an explanation like this in the beginning of that tip. I figured there was one, which is why I went and did it anyways. Thanks.

 

Thanks cruiser, that's good, I get it a bit better now.
Replacing my distributor cap is on my to do list, so I'll make sure to do this with the old cap.

 

I'm not debating the legitimacy or practicality of the Mod, just pointing out why it's a delicate dance. Still scratchen my head though. With smog and mileage pressures, why the heck would they set it wrong?

I'll do mine someday. I normally set Ignition timing by ear. This is not ignition timing, but I may set it freehand, then, check that against the mod. (and my sister tried to tell me their are no "D's" in the word stubborn)

 

Does anybody know of a video for the cruiser distributor indexing tip? Or a more detailed explanation with pictures?

In cruiser's picture that he has with the distributor cut out window, this is after the first step of cutting out a cutout window, right? And also shows the rotor just departing from the #1 terminal after you have done the "adjusting." This "adjusting "is where I need some help, preferably with photos.

Specific areas where I'm confused:
- "Scribe a line 1/2 inch from the end of the distributor locating tab. Cut the distributor locating tab at the scribed line with a saw." (what is distributor locating tab?)
- "turn the oil pump gear drive shaft until the slot is slightly past the 11 o'clock position. The oil pump gear drive shaft is accessible through the distributor mounting bore in the engine block." (can someone post a picture of this oil pump gear drive?)
- "Visually align the modified locating tab area of the distributor housing with the hold down clamp bolt hole." (an image here would help too.)

Thanks for any help!

 

Place the distributor housing upside down in a soft jaw vise. Scribe a line 1/2 inch from the end of the distributor locating tab. Cut the distributor locating tab at the scribed line with a saw.

I believe he is referring to the plate with the slot that fit's on the locating pin on the block. (this way only the dizy is modified) With the slot sawed off, it can now go/turn anywhere.


"can someone post a picture of this oil pump gear drive?" Just have trust. After you pull the dizy, when you look in the hole you will see the slot for the oil pump drive gear. He says "if necessary", because it likely will already be in the right place, since you just removed it.

A couple of my own suggestions. Be darn sure you have the timing mark on the crank pulley right at "0", and don't rotate the engine after that. And second, the rotor should be at about 5:00 viewed from the side, but make a mark somewhere exactly where the rotor is pointing (not on the dizy), before you lift out the distributor. (rarely the mark on the pulley is wrong, but if you know where the rotor was pointing, you will be OK to reinstall it)

 

There's photos in my Tip on CF and in pdf form.

 

Did it, I think...

Right after setting TDC and looking through distributor:



Cut off the distributor locating tab: (I could have cut a bit more, but it worked)




Looking down into oil pump gear drive shaft:




Final product:





Did I do this correctly??

 

Looks like it to me. Kinda sketchy last photo, but if the trailing edge of the rotor is .020" past the dizzy cap terminal, you're good to go.