Firestorm500

Pour some of that beer on it. That will help eat away some of the rust.

PocketsEmpty

That's alcohol abuse!

CherokeeChick33

Lol you guys crack me up with all of the bickering! Well, i don't think the ac works anyways and was planning on ditching it this spring because weather here doesn't seem to get much over 80 degrees and I have four windows As for the valve, I don't see why getting rid of it would kill me, as I don't even know if my jeep has one or has been deleted already (maybe its not open and letting coolant flow to my heater core without force?) anyways. Thanks all Didn't expect a three page forum out of the question

Firestorm500

Bickering? I thought we were having a civilized discussion.

If you want to see bickering, check out some of the "best oil to use" threads.

Be glad of your 3 page response. At least you weren't ignored.

s346k

so what changed on the newer xjs that allowed elimination of that piece?

CCKen

Actually, I haven't been reading this thread because anything to do with XJ's prior to 1997 is beneath me.

But, here's a schematic of the early XJ AC/Heat schematic and a view of the back side of the AC/Heat control panel.

Anyone interested can check the vacuum tube colors on the schematic and take a look at the back of the control panel to see where they go.

Firestorm500

As we can see, the water valve is open to some degree in all modes except "Off" and when full cold temp (A/C) is selected.

cruiser54

There's no bickering. It's just folks who haven't done the mod, telling folks who have, that it doesn't work. LOL.....

djb383

ROTF,LMAO! bada bing, bada boom.

EZEARL

Only trying to prevent an inconvenient situation for someone. Although I haven't seen any difference at all with my heat or a/c (both at 100%) with or w/o the HCV at least now I won't be concerned with the unit cracking/breaking at a bad time(as if there's a good time?). LUCKILY mine gave up the ghost parked at the house. Just happened to look out and see coolant under the vehicle. Checked and found one of the hose connection separated from the unit. They do get brittle over time as do other rubber and "plastic" components due in no small part to the high underhood temps these XJ's are prone to. Bicker on!! LOL

DFlintstone

I'm not bickering with anyone, just sharing my perspective and experience. The cable controlled door under the glove box hits "home" You can hear and feel it land on it's seat. With the blower and vents set on off, a glass, medical thermometer, (gently) positioned in the vent below the controls, pegged at over 100*. My logic yesterday was flawed. 80* from the IR gun...(on plastic set on the defroster vent),..... that was a 30* increase from ambient. (had it been 80* out, that would have read allot higher)

I myself will surely add a manual valve to cut flow to the heater core, if I ever do opt to can that, crap, plastic stock setup. (or maybe I'll find a metal valve from an older Jeep)

CherokeeChick, there was actually a reason for my question about your idle. Does it fluctuate about every 20 seconds or so?

Nice floor Ken, interesting choice of grout. Do you happen to know which sealer was used?

cruiser54

Makes just too much sense for ya, huh?

I could hear your drums!!!

Firestorm500

DFlintstone: Man, that digital clock isn't going anywhere!

Also, should you choose to defy Cruiser54's advice, O'Reilly's sells a nice metal valve-and-pipe assembly. I have the part number listed in an earlier post.

DFlintstone

Well, Pete taught me a good share of anything I know about Renix Jeeps. I'm very grateful, but physics is physics. There IS heat there. Weather it actually would amount to anything...(actual btu's), as opposed to a temp reading with a near zero flow, there IS a real difference there. A few cubic inches of 100* air ain't squat. I choose to have the option over none, or some.

I am in love with my 18V Makita driver. I run screws into anything, (I carry a case with 4-1/2 inch, and down) I just bought a $50 box of stainless with a head I've never seen, like one of those "secure" lug nuts. "Lox"

When a liquid changes state to a gas, heat is absorbed. (that is how friges and AC systems work). When my 02 sensor was toast, I was running over rich. That extra fuel evaporating was delaying my warm-up time. When I changed my 02 sensor, my idle stopped fluctuating, and I got heat about 5 minutes sooner. Would be worse with 703's.