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Cold lower radiator hose, no overheating.

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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 07:06 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by djb383
Usually, what's in the bottle is the same as what's in the rad, since the bottle is connected to the rad. What's in that bottle looks nasty.
Agreed the overflow is lookin pretty bad. I'm gonna go grab a pic with the rad cap off in a bit, just for comparison.. Any thoughts on why there would be such a difference in coolant quality between the overflow and rad itself?
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by VTJeep
Any thoughts on why there would be such a difference in coolant quality between the overflow and rad itself?
Maybe when they flushed the system they didn't clean out the bottle.
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by belvedere

Maybe when they flushed the system they didn't clean out the bottle.
Ya mean like flushing the hose into the overflow? Very possible..
Ok, I said I would get a pic of the rad, but I haven't moved.. Haha, CF, you did it again. Ok.. Coffee. Picture. Brb.
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 08:02 AM
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Cold lower radiator hose, no overheating.-image-674786313.jpg

There's def more sludge than should be..
Attached Thumbnails Cold lower radiator hose, no overheating.-image-1444096047.jpg  
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 08:15 AM
  #20  
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What level of coolant is in the bottle? The minimum level in the bottle should be about 1/3 when the motor is COLD. If the bottle ever gets empty, air is drawn into the rad. The key to the whole coolant recovery system is a properly functioning rad cap (it has 2 valves in it) and never letting the bottle go empty.
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by djb383
What level of coolant is in the bottle? The minimum level in the bottle should be about 1/3 when the motor is COLD. If the bottle ever gets empty, air is drawn into the rad. The key to the whole coolant recovery system is a properly functioning rad cap (it has 2 valves in it) and never letting the bottle go empty.
The bottle has about a third in it as of this am. But, I topped off to the full line about a week ago as it had run dry. So the air in the system is likely.. All I know is I've seen a couple different approaches to burping. Guess I'm gonna search around a bit, but any suggestions?
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 11:06 AM
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Let it idle with the rad cap off, keeping the rad full. When coolant burps out the rad, install a new rad cap. Keep close tabs on coolant level in both the rad and bottle, motor COLD.
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 11:13 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by djb383
Let it idle with the rad cap off, keeping the rad full. When coolant burps out the rad, install a new rad cap. Keep close tabs on coolant level in both the rad and bottle, motor COLD.
Let it run for a few seconds w/o cap last night, just to prove it wouldn't shoot out coolant to my roommate, and it was topped off and didn't burp. How long does it (usually) take? Also, rad cap was new this summer, should I swap it out?
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 02:24 PM
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Motor must be hot.......t-stat open.
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 02:30 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by djb383
Motor must be hot.......t-stat open.
Gettin more fluid now so I can do this, but your saying its gotta be done when I'm up to operating temps, can I take cap off when it's already hot? (Obviously with a rag..) Or is this a from cold start? Thanks a bunch for the continued help man! Really appreciated!
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 02:43 PM
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Don't remove the cap when the system is hot. Remove it cold, then let the engine idle til the stat opens.
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by belvedere
Don't remove the cap when the system is hot. Remove it cold, then let the engine idle til the stat opens.
Very cool. Thanks!
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Old Oct 31, 2021 | 07:00 PM
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Did you ever resolve this?
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Old Nov 1, 2021 | 06:20 AM
  #29  
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the dude is probably in a home for the elderly & infirm now as the thread is nearly 10yrs old
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Old Nov 1, 2021 | 06:55 AM
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DANE, post up what issue you're having. We'll go from there.
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