My '95 Cherokee just quit running the other day w/o warning on the freeway. Engine turns over and has fuel but no spark so I'm thinking either the coil or CPS is the problem so I just tried pulling the codes using the "key trick" to try to save some time troubleshooting but the Check Engine light does not flash when I tried to pull the codes. It just stays on and doesn't turn off until I turn the key off. I've done the key trick many times before w/o any issues so I have no idea what's going on. Anybody have any answers to help me out or will I have to do it the old fashioned way in the rain?

 

i would be willing to bet it's the CPS.

 

I never had codes come up when the CPS and CAM sensors went bad. I've learned to just go without the codes by now. If they come up you have a clue, but if nothing comes up by no means it's something to rely on..

 

Well, I'm still w/o a running Jeep... First I hooked up a new coil but still no spark so I picked up and installed a new CPS over the weekend and again no spark. Y'all have any other ideas on what it could be? Being an old guy most of these newer cars with the extra electronics that do everything except cook your breakfast are just a big PITA to work on, especially w/o being able to retrieve codes from an OBD. One thing I noticed was that the new CPS I put in was it had a much weaker magnet compared to the old one I removed. Could that be an issue? One thing that I didn't mention was that when the engine lost power on the freeway, my speedometer dropped to zero even though I was coasting at 60mph. Not sure if that means anything with the "newer" cars but I know my old school rides with the Speedo cable would still show actual speed while coasting even if motor wasn't running. Also have no change in non-flashing CEL...

 

Does anyone else think it might be the distributor pickup coil? And what the heck is a distributor "reluctor" and could that be something that I need to check as well? I've never heard of one of these until I was looking on RockAuto for pricing on a pickup coil...

 

The only other "reluctor" type thing in the distributor I can thing of is the CAM sensor...

And yes, it can cause similar symptoms as a bad CPS (at least did in mine) and is relatively cheap and easy to replace.

 

yep. exactly. i was gonna mention that. if it's not one, it's the other. i've had them throw the same code.

 

Well, before I went out to spend more money I can't afford to spend putting make-up on my "pig", I decided to take a quick look at all my underhood wiring and plugs/sockets related to the ignition system. I came across some insulation missing leaving wiring exposed on both the plug and socket for the ignition coil. I picked up a generic 3 wire plug/socket set-up at a local auto parts store since I couldn't get a stock replacement. Now the problem is figuring out which wires on the original set-up (black/orange/tan) mate up to the generic set-up (red in the middle and black on both of the outside wires). Any ideas? I also went thru the underhood fuse box and found the big 30A fuse for the ECM was blown, which made me hopeful that if I replaced the fuse the problem would be solved. Nope! Not only would it not start, but I found the ECM fuse had blown again so now I'm hoping it's going to be either the plug/socket replacement or the new distributor coil and/or reluctor solving the issue. Has anyone else out there ever had this happen to them?

 

Well, if you immediately blow a 30A fuse again, you have a decent short somewhere in that circuit involved, which you will need to sort out.
good thing is: trying to find a short is free

Have a digital multimeter? Wiring diagram?

 

Yes I do have a digital multi-meter but I don't have a good Jeep wiring diagram that I could use to trace the specific wires that might be the cause of the short. Any idea on how I should wire in the generic plug/socket that picked up earlier to replace the original one with the exposed wires?
Thanks!

 

So is it a plug with short sections of wires already attached to it?
In that case it usually doesnt matter, as long as you keep the orientation the same: look at the original setup and make sure, wire for wire, that the pin part corresponds with its correct socket on the other side.
The colour of the wires doesnt really matter, they'd be all the same gauge. Does that make sense?

I can have a look at mine, but mine is a 97+ update and not sure if its the same as yours

 

Just to update everyone, installing the new plug didn't fix the no-start problem, but I did discover that one of the wires to the O2 sensor had shorted out on the exhaust manifold. Once I fixed that (by removing damaged area and butt-splicing back together, adding some heat-shrink to the new joint and adding some new heat shield sleeving where it passed near the manifold) it started right up as well as the check engine light now works. It ran good for a couple of days but then started missing a bit for a minuute or two when it first started up but went away once it warmed up. Checked the codes and I'm getting a 21, which isn't a surprise given the shorted out wire to the O2 sensor. So I'm going to pick up a new sensor and install it this weekend. But now another issue has popped up and now the heater no longer blows hot. I tried tapping on the thermostat housing thinking that may be the problem but no change. I wouldn't think the faulty O2 sensor would be the cause, would it? I'm not getting any other codes but the 21 so I'm a bit lost. While I'm changing the O2 sensor this weekend I'm going to install a flush and fill kit and see if that fixes it. Anyone else have any suggestions? I have 237K miles on it but the running gear is still going pretty strong but lots of other little issues are starting to pop up. The latest is both the input and output shaft seals in my power steering box are starting to leak to the point of needing to be replaced or maybe I'll go to Pick-n-Pull and see if I can find a complete box in good shape and just replace the whole thing, which I'm thinking might be an easier job. What other years are interchangable with my '95 XJ and is there anything I should look out for when I'm looking for a replacement box?