Dave51

Or buy, borrow, rent a real tool

dave1123

Yeah, .5mm is .020". (Well, actually .0197")

Dave51

Although what is odd is that this specification is not listed in the FSM (unless it's buried somewhere)(Cruiser's link is for a Lexus). I guess Mopar has a lot of confidence in their manufacturing tolerances.

Nonetheless, with a booster/MC change, fiddlement already done and a pesky problem still underfoot, because of the tight tolerance of this value it needs to be adjusted, and the commonly accepted value is 0.020 in.

jshultz78

I finally got off my lazy butt and went to the junkyard to get the backing plates and a prop valve to swap out the guts off a GC to do the disc swap. Got the plates and the calipers to turn in for cores on new ones. Maybe this thing will stop like it should when I get finished. haha

HOPEFULLY I'll be around $200 or so for the setup.

What's the best way to attach the parking brake cable? Just loop the cable and use a couple of those cable clamps?

EZEARL

You can do that. Or just order two of these:
https://www.quadratec.com/p/crown-au...ersion-rt31039

Of course you can shop around for the lowest price.

Rambler65

That's what I did on my '99. It was a pain, especially to cut back the spring covering, but works OK. If I had to do it again I think I'd buy cables to fit.

jshultz78

I'll prob just do the new cables, cheap insurance.

What about an adjustable prop valve? My buddy that builds cars said something about them, Can dial in the strength of the rears, 50/50 or whatever you want, and they run a little over $100


Different topic, but can the cross pin between the axles wear down over time to cause a little more in/out axle play? I think I have a little more than normal, and since I"ll be in there should I go ahead and change it, jeep has about 230k on it. and new c-clips too? I"m planning on new axles in the future when I finally gear/lock.