Are the brakes just this bad on xj's?
12-02-2017, 10:23 PM
#16
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
The rotors didn't warp, that's a good thing. But back to square one with the crap pedal. Prob just gonna throw 2 calipers and new lines on it tomorrow, 220k miles might as well.
As far as the lines go, they have stock ones and 4" longer ones. Being stock height now can I go ahead and get the 4" longer ones for when I lift? just tie the excess back?
As far as the lines go, they have stock ones and 4" longer ones. Being stock height now can I go ahead and get the 4" longer ones for when I lift? just tie the excess back?
12-08-2017, 06:39 AM
#17
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
New hoses and calipers. Still crap pedal, but at least it feels like it has more stopping power, it'll lock up the fronts on dirt now. haha. Next is rear rubber hose and then a 95-96 booster.
12-08-2017, 06:50 AM
#18
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Update.
got the pads/rotors and rear hardware installed, pedal felt alot better, half-assed bedded the pads, got home in the dirt, the passenger side would lock up in the dirt but the driver would barely slide, backed up and drove foward and hit the brakes a few times, then went back down to the main highway, about a mile, noticed it was kinda bogging down, not driving right. Got it back home and the front brakes were dragging. Smoke pouring off the fronts. Rears were barely warm. Tore it back down, went ahead and welded up the tiny grooves where the pads ride on the knuckle. About to go drive it again and see what happens. The only thing I can think of is after I pushed the caliper back in It could have overfilled the master cylinder causing it to pressure up?
got the pads/rotors and rear hardware installed, pedal felt alot better, half-assed bedded the pads, got home in the dirt, the passenger side would lock up in the dirt but the driver would barely slide, backed up and drove foward and hit the brakes a few times, then went back down to the main highway, about a mile, noticed it was kinda bogging down, not driving right. Got it back home and the front brakes were dragging. Smoke pouring off the fronts. Rears were barely warm. Tore it back down, went ahead and welded up the tiny grooves where the pads ride on the knuckle. About to go drive it again and see what happens. The only thing I can think of is after I pushed the caliper back in It could have overfilled the master cylinder causing it to pressure up?
12-09-2017, 01:44 PM
#19
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Year: 1996 Two Door Wagoneer
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
... I did a drum clean-up, lube and re-adjust. The improvement in stopping power and pedal feel was an eye-opener. Last week I installed new Centric premium rotors and semi-metallic pads, and now the brakes are amazing.
I'd advise you to bed the new pads and rotors in properly as soon as you install them. Don't just drive around normally for weeks waiting for them to bed-in on their own.
This is basically the procedure I follow: http://brakeperformance.com/bedding-in-rotors.php
I'd advise you to bed the new pads and rotors in properly as soon as you install them. Don't just drive around normally for weeks waiting for them to bed-in on their own.
This is basically the procedure I follow: http://brakeperformance.com/bedding-in-rotors.php
01-01-2018, 05:24 PM
#20
Newbie
Didn't want to start a new thread since this one was already on the subject.
I am the process of a lot of upgrades to my 92 XJ. I was looking at swapping the booster and MC to a 95 setup since I have read that it greatly improves the braking and is a direct swap, but now I see the Grand Cherokee booster and MC swap and am wondering if that would be better and direct fit as well?
Since I have it all apart (intake and exhaust removed) and there is easy access I was thinking of replacing the proportioning valve as well but cannot find one anywhere??
My xj is a 2wd but has the factory towing kit so the 4WD front brakes, and I have completely rebuilt the entire brake system
I am the process of a lot of upgrades to my 92 XJ. I was looking at swapping the booster and MC to a 95 setup since I have read that it greatly improves the braking and is a direct swap, but now I see the Grand Cherokee booster and MC swap and am wondering if that would be better and direct fit as well?
Since I have it all apart (intake and exhaust removed) and there is easy access I was thinking of replacing the proportioning valve as well but cannot find one anywhere??
My xj is a 2wd but has the factory towing kit so the 4WD front brakes, and I have completely rebuilt the entire brake system
Last edited by Shadow83; 01-01-2018 at 05:34 PM.
01-01-2018, 05:59 PM
#21
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Didn't want to start a new thread since this one was already on the subject.
I am the process of a lot of upgrades to my 92 XJ. I was looking at swapping the booster and MC to a 95 setup since I have read that it greatly improves the braking and is a direct swap, but now I see the Grand Cherokee booster and MC swap and am wondering if that would be better and direct fit as well?
Since I have it all apart (intake and exhaust removed) and there is easy access I was thinking of replacing the proportioning valve as well but cannot find one anywhere??
My xj is a 2wd but has the factory towing kit so the 4WD front brakes, and I have completely rebuilt the entire brake system
I am the process of a lot of upgrades to my 92 XJ. I was looking at swapping the booster and MC to a 95 setup since I have read that it greatly improves the braking and is a direct swap, but now I see the Grand Cherokee booster and MC swap and am wondering if that would be better and direct fit as well?
Since I have it all apart (intake and exhaust removed) and there is easy access I was thinking of replacing the proportioning valve as well but cannot find one anywhere??
My xj is a 2wd but has the factory towing kit so the 4WD front brakes, and I have completely rebuilt the entire brake system
I prefer the 99 to 2004 Grand Cherokee booster and master swap.
WJ versus 95 to 96 XJ booster
Actually, the WJ booster is in some ways easier than the 95 to 96 XJ.
I've done both.
XJ, you don't have to mess with the firewall. No big deal anyway.
But, you have to move the washer reservoir. And, once the original booster comes out, the bracket inside the cab moves and makes it a bear to install the new booster.
WJ you have to bend or cut the firewall lip, but don't move the washer bottle.
As an added bonus, the mounting studs of the WJ booster are a bit smaller and it's easier to get in.
Another bonus with the WJ is that it has FLEXIBLE lines from the master cylinder that make putting things together MUCH easier.
And, WJ boosters are newer and easier to find…..
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01-01-2018, 07:13 PM
#22
CF Veteran
The only reason yo would need a new proportioning valve is if you go to rear discs. It would have a different ration in it. I used a early GC booster. It is dual diaphragm and is an upgrade. No reason to change out the master cylinder. You won't gain anything and it has different type of brake line fittings on it you would have to deal with
01-01-2018, 09:27 PM
#23
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
The only reason yo would need a new proportioning valve is if you go to rear discs. It would have a different ration in it. I used a early GC booster. It is dual diaphragm and is an upgrade. No reason to change out the master cylinder. You won't gain anything and it has different type of brake line fittings on it you would have to deal with
And, just so we all know, if you go rear discs, you only need the guts from the prop valve on a 94 to 98 Grand Cherokee.
01-01-2018, 11:21 PM
#25
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Year: 1990
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01-02-2018, 12:12 AM
#26
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I redid the whole system. I used a ZJ booster, not sure what year. It was given to me in exchange for some suspension work. 98 ZJ master cylinder and proportioning valve from a 5.9 ZJ. 99 WJ front brakes. I made a mounting bracket and used the WJ rear brakes. Made my own track bar and mounts to match a tie rod and drag link flip. Stops on a dime and gives change. It almost stops too fast. But when I go up in tire size it should be just right
01-02-2018, 06:20 AM
#27
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
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I redid the whole system. I used a ZJ booster, not sure what year. It was given to me in exchange for some suspension work. 98 ZJ master cylinder and proportioning valve from a 5.9 ZJ. 99 WJ front brakes. I made a mounting bracket and used the WJ rear brakes. Made my own track bar and mounts to match a tie rod and drag link flip. Stops on a dime and gives change. It almost stops too fast. But when I go up in tire size it should be just right
04-15-2019, 09:23 PM
#29
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Is there any company that makes dual piston calipers for an xj that bolt on? I've read about using a different jeeps calipers maybe a zj or wj, but don't want to go through the hassle of fabbing anything. I'm at my wits end on these brakes, New everything except hardlines, Dual diaphragm booster/mc, calipers, rotors, high dollar performance friction pads, hoses, everything. Rears adjusted, It stops so-so on the street, After I put the 31's on it, it's not as good as when the 235's was on it, but I expected that. After I finally got a winch on it I tested everything, Hooked the winch to a tree and stood on the brakes, I figured it would at least pull it across the yard sliding but the tires rolled, granted they were fighting for all their life, nosed the jeep down pretty good, but the brakes won't even hold from a dead stop.
04-15-2019, 09:58 PM
#30
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
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I just finished reading pages after pages on the wj knuckle swap. I may go that route. Only fabbing will be welding the spacer to the knuckle. And sourcing parts. And since I'm about to be re-gearing. I'm planning on getting new diff's anyways so i can do all this on a bench before it's swapped in the jeep.