hello

bought my first Jeep last summer, a 2000 Cherokee 4WD (4.0 with an auto trans, no posi) with 160k km on it; did a bunch of maintenance items, including new front rotors & pads, and a brake system flush. The rear brakes had been done about 6 months before I bought it, and it included new drums. Also mounted new General Grabber AT2's in 235/75/15 on the oem cast aluminum rims.

Anyways, probably a total newb question but the brakes just aren't that great, and I've heard that this is more or less typical of Jeep XJ's; is this true or bad info?

Not that I'm expecting to stop on a dime with a 3400lb 4WD that has smallish discs up front and drums in the back, but it gets kinda scary at times and I really have to watch how much room I have in front and think ahead a lot (not that either of those last two are bad things of course...).

I've started doing some research into this and have heard some talk about inadequate master cylinder size etc., but I figured this would be a much-discussed and well known issue if it were common to most XJ's.

Anyways, any insight, info or links to other threads/sites covering this would most appreciated!

cheers

greg v.

 

I have noticed that metallic stop faster than ceramic brakes do. Your right their not your grandfather's beemers brakes. They work so so with stock 225 75 15 and hardly work with 33 or larger. I have had a few xjs and I just learned to live with them.

 

do u have a spongy pedal, hard pedal, or a lot of pedal travel?

 

I recently upgraded the rear drums to disk. The difference is no kidding... night and freekin day. However don't hold a candle to the brakes on my Camaro. But IMO that isn't a fair comparison. There is a good amount of petal travel. Even more so with rear disk now for 2 reasons... #1 adding 2 more soft lines, #2 the calipers take more fluid to actuate than the wheel cylinders do.

I would imagine if I put braided lines front, axle and back along with WJ brakes on the front, a better master cylinder and proper proportioning valve the brakes would be 100X better.



Just because the drums where serviced 6 months ago doesn't mean they are okay. Drums do need to be checked to make sure the automatic adjuster is working correctly. If not they will either need to be repaired or adjusted periodically.

 

Razor did you do the conversion yourself? Kit or from a donor vehicle? I'm interested in attempting this myself.

Sent from my DROIDX using Cherokee Forum

 

All information about it is in my build thread post #4 and #9

Link in my sig

 

Ya start off by making sure the self adjusters are working, & adjusted properly. Also like said inspect the whole rear drum assembly! I never trust a PO with my brakes... if they look good, & are adjusted correctly, then you might try bleeding the system. You shouldn't have a problem stopping with those tires.

 

Here is a nice write up to get better braking without the disk conversion.

http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticl...des/index.html

 

Correct me if I'm wrong but if OP's xj is an '00, isn't that booster upgrade redundant?

Sent from my DROIDX using Cherokee Forum

 

I guess it would be. Mine fits in the category so I didnt put thought into it.

 

I was just making sure is all.

Sent from my DROIDX using Cherokee Forum

 

I have a 2000 XJ and my brakes are excellent (no ABS). I did replace calipers, pads and rotors up front and new shoes, turned drums, wheel cylinders, hardware and brake hose in back. I notice the OP did not mention calipers or wheel cylinders. If those are good than you may need to rebleed the brake system. When the brake system is properly maintained you should be able to stop quickly without scaring yourself.

 

I don't get scared... the person with a winch in their rearveiw does! LMAO

 

hi guys

thanks for all the responses.

The calipers were not replaced during the recent front brake work, and from what I can tell from the previous owner's receipts the rear drums were replaced with new ones but I'm not sure if the cylinders or hardware kit (springs etc.) were. I assume the shoes were though.

I also forgot to mention that during hard stops the vehicle does tend to pull hard to the left at least 35% of the time (sticky caliper?).

Having said that, maybe it's time to put on new calipers, and renew the rear cylinders and springs etc. as well as a good re-bleeding of the system. Any other tips on optimizing the stock braking system?

thanks for all the info

greg v.

 

Braking is just average for a vehicle of this size. A bit less than average when towing and especially with wet roads.

Don't use ceramic brake pads or you'll be going through more rotors. Semi-metallic is best.