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Blocked bolts for the tailpipe hanger bracket. Plus, angle grinder update!!
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
LOL, I went to inspect the other frame rail holes that I would relocate bolts to, to secure the nut strip while swapping out the 2 bracket bolts. That nut rail that extends out is basically disintegrated and can be broken like a Twix bar. The threads are basically nonexistent. They are rusted out beyond recognition. Gotta love trying to wrench on an XJ, where every single step is always a dead end. Thanks for trying to help, but it looks like the coat hanger will be the solution for the rest of this XJ's life. Gonna see if I can get a refund from Amazon.
Holy **** man! No wonder you're having so many issues!
Doesn't NY have regular inspections? How is that thing road legal?
Might be time to take a serious look at the rest of the vehicle and ask yourself how much effort you want to put into it if it's just going to snap in two next season.
The print in the pics is kind of foggy. If you want to read the text, depress and hold the Ctrl key on your keyboard while tapping the + key to enlage the image. Tap the - key to return to normal.
Learned something new again today.
It's never too late for a old dog to learn new tricks.
LOL, I went to inspect the other frame rail holes that I would relocate bolts to, to secure the nut strip while swapping out the 2 bracket bolts. That nut rail that extends out is basically disintegrated and can be broken like a Twix bar. The threads are basically nonexistent. They are rusted out beyond recognition. Gotta love trying to wrench on an XJ, where every single step is always a dead end. Thanks for trying to help, but it looks like the coat hanger will be the solution for the rest of this XJ's life. Gonna see if I can get a refund from Amazon.
That reminds me of a Thanksgiving Day turkey - **** hole and all. I'll take the leg thanks. Yummy.
If you take the rear bumper off you can change both nut strips. The nut strips are about $17ea. I use a shallow 18mm 1/2" drive socket with a universal or a wrench and pipe to get the nuts/bolts by the exhaust off.
I don't think Bimmer is dumb I think he's inexperienced and writes multipage threads on these simple jobs that most people who are learning simple won't do. Many people may have someone to go ask or have done it all their lives and learned from their dad or from friends maybe just by watching. Like how to raise a vehicle with solid axles. Most people just know to put a floor jack under the differential. On a German cars (Mercedes anyway) they would have rubber pads along the edges of the body to support the vehicle.
If that bolt is only supporting the exhaust pipe, I would probably slip a 3/8" toggle bolt into the hole and use that to hang the exhaust from.
Something like this:
This particular toggle bolt is available at McMasterCarr.com
You may have to drill out the inside of the existing nut to a larger diameter or use a smaller diameter toggle."
As far as the old exhaust clamp goes.
I would have driven a 1/2" drive, 6 point Hex socket onto the old nut and twisted it with a power handle until it broke.
They break pretty easily.
If you're not going to re-use it, break it.
If you take the rear bumper off you can change both nut strips. The nut strips are about $17ea. I use a shallow 18mm 1/2" drive socket with a universal or a wrench and pipe to get the nuts/bolts by the exhaust off.
I have no idea if I can take the rear bumper off. My guess is that it's rusted on forever.
I am thinking I don't need to relocate the 2 bolts into the other spare holes anyway. I don't think it needs to be bolted down, it just need to be aligned so I can get the 2 new bolts back in. I can just use my finger to keep the nut strip in place.
The question is are the 2 bolt holes intact? Since they have not been exposed, and are still holding the bracket on, I think the 2 bolt holes are hopefully intact.
I will just remove the 2 bolts, stick my finger in the rotted out bolt hole to keep it still, and try to re-thread the new bolts. Hopefully, the nut strips stays in place and I can get the 2 bolt threaded.
I don't think Bimmer is dumb I think he's inexperienced and writes multipage threads on these simple jobs that most people who are learning simple won't do. Many people may have someone to go ask or have done it all their lives and learned from their dad or from friends maybe just by watching. Like how to raise a vehicle with solid axles. Most people just know to put a floor jack under the differential. On a German cars (Mercedes anyway) they would have rubber pads along the edges of the body to support the vehicle.
Correct, sir. This stuff is near impossible to learn without a mentor or uncle or neighbor. This is why people are charged by mechanics $150 for 10 mins of work! If it was easy, they'd do it themselves.
Plus, you need to invest in $1000 of tools, more like $2000, unlike the "$30 socket set and 2 screwdrivers" mythology spread on the XJ forums.
As far as the old exhaust clamp goes.
I would have driven a 1/2" drive, 6 point Hex socket onto the old nut and twisted it with a power handle until it broke.
They break pretty easily.
If you're not going to re-use it, break it.
Just my opinion
Yes, but how would you then remove the broken bolt shaft?
Correct, sir. This stuff is near impossible to learn without a mentor or uncle or neighbor. This is why people are charged by mechanics $150 for 10 mins of work! If it was easy, they'd do it themselves.
Plus, you need to invest in $1000 of tools, more like $2000, unlike the "$30 socket set and 2 screwdrivers" mythology spread on the XJ forums.
Actually my tools cost probably about $300 over the course of 5 years of owning my jeep. And I learn hands on and do research, not start threads that go on for days and nothing gets done
Edit maybe 500 over te course of 5 years. Forgot I bought a jack and stuff when I got my house
I have no idea if I can take the rear bumper off. My guess is that it's rusted on forever.
I am thinking I don't need to relocate the 2 bolts into the other spare holes anyway. I don't think it needs to be bolted down, it just need to be aligned so I can get the 2 new bolts back in. I can just use my finger to keep the nut strip in place.
The question is are the 2 bolt holes intact? Since they have not been exposed, and are still holding the bracket on, I think the 2 bolt holes are hopefully intact.
I will just remove the 2 bolts, stick my finger in the rotted out bolt hole to keep it still, and try to re-thread the new bolts. Hopefully, the nut strips stays in place and I can get the 2 bolt threaded.
I can't figure out what you're asking. I only see one bolt holt and to know if its good you can thread a bolt into it and see.
As rusty as your Jeep is, I think you should sell it and buy a Toyota.
As rusty as your Jeep is, I think you should sell it and buy a Toyota.
LOL, at least where I live older Toyotas are the biggest rust-buckets around, I've seen a ton of older (early 2000s and older) 4-Runners/Tacomas that look/run great until you look underneath and chunks of the frame come off in your hand (no joke, I just saw 2 late 90s low-mileage 4-runners at a dealer where the frame literally crumbled in my hand and they were asking $6-8k for them).
LOL, at least where I live older Toyotas are the biggest rust-buckets around,
C'mon up here further north- there are no Old Toyotas. Or middle-aged Mazdas for that matter.
Quite a few late 80s- early 90's XJ's running around yet but I'm afraid to look underneath judging from some of the rocker panels.
