It's very simple to do actually and he gives you installation instructions after purchase. That part made me nervous too when I did it but it's simple. If you're able to splice a single wire, you won't have any problem

The starter motor uses an M8-1.25 stud to attach the battery cable to, my cable is terminated using a 3/8" ring lug to replace it (8m/m is roughly equal to 5/16".)

1991-up rigs do have a moulded rubber "convenience block" at that connector, I've got an illustrated instruction sheet for how to handle that little nuisance (and it only takes five minutes, doable with simple hand tools.)

You can use any clamp that uses a binding post or screw to retain the ring lugs - marine style and ordnance style clamps are common, but there are some "competition audiophile" units and suchlike out there as well that people use. I merely offer an "unleaded" option (lead isn't a very good conductor of electricity. It's used inside the battery because that's how the battery chemistry works, it's used outside the battery because it's soft and melts at a low temperature, which pushes down manufacturing costs. Hell, uranium and plutonium are better electrical conductors than lead!)

I actually emailed you back already. The only other question I asked was in your opinion which of your packages should I go with? I figure some others might read this thread and have the same questions.
I'm not looking for much of an upgraded set of wires as I am just looking for new good quality cables (my others have all fallen victim to corrosion). And if I can't find a set of marine terminals that I like then I'll pick up a set from you as well.

Once you get this can you please e-mail or pm me some quotes on pricing? email is from teisch38.

I think I've already answered you backchannel, so have a shufty and see what you think.

What is a shufty? An acronym?

Sorry - "have a look."

I've spent too much time in British English-speaking countries, particularly Oz...

I'm right about to oder a set of cables, but just want to make sure that all the specs will be right. Off the top of thei head all electrical componnts for 96Xjs are all the same correct? connections at the pdc, starter motor, pbattery posts? let me know if anything can be different.

Why would anyone here recommend a cable that doesn't even come with battery clamps???
This seems way more complex than it should be.

What is wrong with just buying what was posted at NAPA for $13?
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...135_0343126350


All you need to do is cut that green wire and splice it into this one, correct?

Pretty much - the only real differences would be cable lengths for the 6-242 vice the 4-150 engines.

Easier to service, easier to add accessories to a longer stud, able to seal connections (preventing internal corrosion under the jacket - where you can't see it!) keeping costs under control, able to use "unleaded" terminal clamps (which conduct better than lead,) and probably other reasons I'm not thinking of at the moment.

Look at the construction of the cable you posted - then look at mine (http://www.kelleyswip.com/img/cablekit.jpg).

As I just answered in another thread on another board - for many people, "good enough" really is.

For some of us, "good enough" - isn't.

Me? I've had critical gear fail just when I needed it most. That's not going to happen with something I've built!

Bear in mind that the typical OEM or mass-produced aftermarket part embodies a compromise between engineering (coming up with a part that meets requirements) and economy (the beancounters - who usually know nothing about engineering! - try to wring every nickel of cost out of the part that they can.)

I'm a one-man band, I don't have a dedicated accountant (and if I did, I would remind him that he answers to me, not the other way around.) Mickey Thompson said it best - "I am the engineer, you are the accountant. Your job is to keep track of my beans, not tell me what to do with them!"

I seriously doubt I'll do enough to work myself out of a job by making reliable parts, just because I'm only one guy. If I do manage to work myself out of a job, I'll find something else to do.

Your requirements may be mild enough that "good enough" is just fine.

For some of us, "good enough" is patently unacceptable.

Well...nothing if you want a $13 cable, lol.
I've had the lug pull right off of cheap cables while installing them. Typical Chinese low-bid assembly. If you go that route give the crimp ends a good yank before leaving the store.
The other problem is the ends aren't weather sealed, eventually grunge gets in there and rots the cable from the inside out. "Crunchy cable" syndrome, lol.
You generally do get exactly what you pay for.
I haven't bought from 5-90 (I have tools to crimp my own stuff), but they do look very nice.

Are you the same bimmer guy who was asking what parts were best for your Jeep? That you were from the BMW world and were used to top quality stuff and parts suppliers?

Or am I confused?