He might be confused, all I've been able to find is 4.10s and 4.56s. Personally I'm going for 4.56s but I wheel almost every weekend when I have a Jeep. Sadly I'm going crazy right now not having one.

 

I agree that the 44 is completely unnecessary for 33's, but ****, if you have the time and money then go for it is how I see it. I have heard from a few people that the 8.25 is comparable with a 44, and heard the same thing about the 8.8. But sense I have never ran any of those axles and am still running a turdy 5, i dont like to pass along hear say is all. just personal experience! =D

 

thats kinda what Im thinkin. Im just going to keep my eye out for a good deal on a d44 or a good 8.25. Im not worried about fab work on the d44. I just want the strongest axle for what I need. I dont need to be rock krawling. Im going to be using my xj as a dd while adventuring out on the weekends. Im not worried about mpg's that much so when I gear it IM thinking 4.56's. But who knows. Thats all in the future. right now Im broke haha But thanks to everybody who helped shed some light on the subject. I know what Im going to be looking out for. I just need to wait until april when I finish college to start really spending money haha

 

Im running 36s on my front 30... no problems what so ever.

 

Read this fellas page. http://www.ericsxj.com/
Dana44 is hardly stronger then a 8.25 and a waste of money. If your going to go through all the fab work and sourcing a axle. You might as well go D60 or a ford 9". That's some strong stuff. But over kill.
Built 8.25 and D30 will take 33's with no problems. Even 35's.
I always hear these dudes (read as douche bags) crap talkin these axles. But Yet I see plenty of people running them. I have em and they work completely fine. I don't have a locker in the front yet. But I will once I start building mine. With manual lockouts and a Detroit locker. If your worried about the axle housing. Put a truss on it. You can build a killer D30 for about $2500 with top of the line products, locker, manual lockouts, truss, chromoly inner, gearing, and even a WJ brake upgrade.
All you need for the 8.25 is chromoly inners, locker, gearing and maybe disc brake upgrade. 8.25 can easily be found and you can build it while you drive on ur D35.
I run a Detroit locker in my 8.25. I wouldn't change it out for anything.
For gearing. I'd say 4.10's are ideal. Good gas mileage and power. Good for wheelin.

 

The Chrysler 8.25 and the Dana 44 are comparable. The Explorer 8.8 axle is more closely comparable to a Dana 60 than the Dana 44. If someone plans on changing ratios to 4.10 just find a 31 spline, disc brake, 4.10 geared 8.8 axle. It will cost less to mount the axle in the Cherokee than it would to do a ring & pinion change.

 

Just a quick question. So you guys are saying that the Dana 30 up front will handle 33's?

 

Yup, the Dana 30 up front will handle 33's. I would suggest a HP Dana 30 as opposed to a LP D30, but either one will help.

And there seems to be some misinformation regarding the Ford 8.8...



The 8.8 is stronger than the D44, especially the later models with higher spline counts.

Also, the 8.8 can be had from the factory with disc brakes and 4.10's, and there are a helluva lot more left than D44's to be had.




And the 6200+ is because the testing magazine couldn't break the axle. They stopped there.

 

How come the HP more so the lp?

And thanks for the help on the other question

 

Better ground clearance and more importantly better drive line angle.

 

"A low pinion in the front drives on the coast or beveled side of the gear and under higher loads, the pinion teeth are forced out of the contact area into the higher thinner edges of the teeth and that's what tends to destroy the gear teeth.

A high pinion on the other hand drives on the flat side of the tooth and the contact pattern tends to remain static regardless of the loads placed on it.

High pinion= driven on the drive side of the ring gear teeth.

Low pinion= driven on the coast side of the ring gear teeth." (mrblaine, Jeepforum)

The HP30 also uses shims for pinion preload instead of a crush sleeve. It's more stable and easier to deal with as well.


Overall, because of the gear setup and the driveline angle change it is a little bit better. Would I spend more than 250-300 obtaining one if I had a LP? Probably not. It's not that big of a difference. Just something worth noting.

 

Yes, It'll handle 35s comfortably, 37s are pushing it.