Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here XJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.

ATF fluid change.

Old 03-02-2019, 05:45 PM
  #1  
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
desertfox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Model: Cherokee(SJ)
Default ATF fluid change.

I have read a wide variety of thoughts on this, but I値l pose the question custom to my current scenario. Have a 99 with an AW5(?) that has I知 guessing 100k on current fluid and filter. Fluid is pretty dark brown but not smelly and shifts great. I知 thinking about cycling thru a few drains/refills over the next 500 miles (not flushing). At this point should I also drop pan and change out filter? And if so...do this first and cycle a few refills of atf thru of do change if last. Or don稚 bother and just refresh the fluid?? Thanks!
Old 03-02-2019, 05:58 PM
  #2  
CF Veteran
 
tjwalker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: In the middle of Minnesota!
Posts: 5,804
Received 99 Likes on 88 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

Don't bother with the filter; on the AW4 (not AW5) it's a screen.

Do the drain/fill/drive until fluid stays red. May take 2-3 times.

Use Dex/Merc compatible fluid ONLY, no matter what somebody at the parts counter might try to sell you! Do not use ATF+4. While some AW4 transmissions work okay with it, many do not. Dex/Merc is the spec by Asin Warner, the mfg of the transmission and IMHO, it's the only correct fluid for the AW4.

Last edited by tjwalker; 03-02-2019 at 06:10 PM.
Old 03-02-2019, 06:26 PM
  #3  
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
desertfox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Model: Cherokee(SJ)
Default

Thanks TJ, yeah got 3 gallons of dex Merc on tap.
Old 03-02-2019, 06:42 PM
  #4  
Senior Member
 
dzywicki's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 676
Likes: 0
Received 69 Likes on 55 Posts
Model: Cherokee
Default

I second the not bothering with the filter. It is literally a very coarse metal screen. It's not worth the hassle at all. If you wanted to keep it as easy as possible, get something to suck it out from the top and you are golden with no risk to stripping the drain bolt or having a leaking crush washer.
Old 03-02-2019, 08:57 PM
  #5  
Senior Member
 
cpttuna's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: napoleon ohio
Posts: 642
Received 43 Likes on 38 Posts
Year: 98, 00, 01 and another 01
Model: Cherokee
Engine: both 01 jeeps have viper coil pack
Default

I believe the drain pan bolt is 14 mm and when you drain the pain you will have about 4 quarts to replace.
Old 03-02-2019, 10:58 PM
  #6  
CF Veteran
 
DFlintstone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Nor-Cal Coast
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 0
Received 17 Likes on 17 Posts
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Default

Seems you are in great hands. Yea I wouldn't bother with the screen. Agreeing with all above. Since it all wont drain you can do your first now, then just repeat with oil changes while you'r there anyway until the fluid looks nice. That's one angle anyway. Myself I went with breaking my cooling line on lord knows what and pumping it all out on the road, emptied within walking distance of home. Ether way works.
Old 03-02-2019, 11:29 PM
  #7  
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
desertfox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Model: Cherokee(SJ)
Default

Any suggestions on mileage intervals? I thought I read to drive at least 100 miles before repeating the cycle. I知 seeing also some suggestions on a few thousand in between. It痴 going to be pretty dirty the first go around. Also, a suggestion on what type (brand) of dex/Merc to use the last time that will end up staying in there for the longer term.
Old 03-02-2019, 11:40 PM
  #8  
gat
Senior Member
 
gat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 621
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes on 9 Posts
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L L6 PowerTech (stock)
Default

I did it all in one go when I bought my 1992 automatic a few years ago. I dropped the pan and changed the filter. I had to unbolted the dip stick tube/fill tube from the block instead of removing it from the pan because the tube was stuck in the pan and I didn't want to break that o-ring seal and leak. I filled the pan from the tube. I had someone start the vehicle with the oil cooler out line going to a bucket while I was pouring into a funnel in the fill tube until the fluid coming out of the oil cooler out line came bright red. I had her kill the engine, then adjusted the fluid level over a couple of weeks of driving. I had to add more fluid than the dip stick shows, but that was likely because the transmission never had been changed and wore from older fluid.

The old filter/screen didn't seem to be dirty. If you are worried about leaks, then don't mess with dropping the pan at all. I did use Dex II?/Merv V?, but all of the manuals state A.T.F.4+ should work. I think that the original specifications fluid was cheaper anyways... So between price and so many on the internet I guess that you should go with the old fluid. Who knows whether it isn't just A.T.F. 4 rebadged anyhow.
Old 03-03-2019, 08:35 AM
  #9  
::CF Moderator::
 
cruiser54's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
Posts: 43,857
Received 1,522 Likes on 1,234 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Default

All good ^^ info here.
Old 03-03-2019, 08:47 AM
  #10  
CF Veteran
 
Dave51's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 3,257
Received 368 Likes on 328 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Default

If the gasket is leaking then you could drop the pan. I dropped the pan a couple of times to see what was stuck on the magnet.
Old 03-03-2019, 08:55 AM
  #11  
::CF Moderator::
 
cruiser54's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
Posts: 43,857
Received 1,522 Likes on 1,234 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Default

Originally Posted by Dave51
If the gasket is leaking then you could drop the pan. I dropped the pan a couple of times to see what was stuck on the magnet.
Leave it alone if it's not leaking.
Old 03-03-2019, 08:56 AM
  #12  
CF Veteran
 
Dave51's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 3,257
Received 368 Likes on 328 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Default

A significant concern is that those pan bolts can strip the transmission threads VERY easily. So IMO they either have to be removed periodically and CAREFULLY re-tightened or NEVER touched.
Old 03-03-2019, 08:59 AM
  #13  
::CF Moderator::
 
cruiser54's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
Posts: 43,857
Received 1,522 Likes on 1,234 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Default

Originally Posted by Dave51
A significant concern is that those pan bolts can strip the transmission threads VERY easily. So IMO they either have to be removed periodically and CAREFULLY re-tightened or NEVER touched.
Sorry Dave,but that's not true. It was designed so the plug is softer than the pan and the bolt itself strips.
Replacement bolts with new crush washers can be had at most neighborhood parts stores.
Old 03-03-2019, 08:59 AM
  #14  
CF Veteran
 
Dave51's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 3,257
Received 368 Likes on 328 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Default

Originally Posted by cruiser54
Leave it alone if it's not leaking.
Yeah, I never did find anything.
Old 03-03-2019, 09:02 AM
  #15  
CF Veteran
 
Dave51's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 3,257
Received 368 Likes on 328 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Default

Originally Posted by cruiser54
It was designed so the plug is softer than the pan and the bolt itself strips.
No, the transmission threads themselves not the plug.

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: ATF fluid change.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:34 PM.